What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I went with this one. I've had it for almost a year and it works pretty well. No drilling required, and no issues so far.

$105 Titan Fuel Tanks 9901330000 Tire Mount

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184K1JOI?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_ZRD1MW1SREKK9HNHXMTR

Here it is in action

 

I've always liked how your truck looks. Love that color with the color matched flares and those SCS wheels. How do you like those MT tires?

 

I really like this truck.

 

Dropped my truck off at my local shop. They say they can’t get any more caster outta the front it’s currently at 1.8 and 2.0. Bummer. Also I’ve know then rear drums/shoes need replaced and I don’t have the time currently so I’m having them do it. A near waste of money but I decided to let them do it for a few reasons:
No time currently
3yr / 25K warranty
Full brake fluid flush
And no time currently lol

 

I'm about to call the exhaust shop and have them weld some new O2 flanges on. Changed the rear sensors, passenger side went fine.

Drivers side everything came apart easy. The studs unscrewed with the nuts but whatever... Except they unscrewed because the flanges are rusted out where they thread in.

 

Ouch!! How much that set you back, $1,200, $1,400? Small price to pay for 90k-100k miles of insurance. Welcome to the forum!

There's quite a few of us around here who won't judge you. I've bitched about it a few times on here, that I was in a pinch when my alternator caught fire and had a local mechanic I trusted replace it. Didn't realize until a few months later they put in the wrong Denso alternator for trucks with tow pkg (100A vs. 130A or whatever) but still ... there was no way I could've squeezed the work in with all the crap I had going on. Had the same shop do my wife's rotors and 8 new pads around that same time, all Denso, $275 for everything and it cost me 15 minutes of time dropping it off. Saved me about 2-3 hours work, time is money.

It's one thing not knowing how to do any of the work and paying other people to do it.
It's another thing entirely when you know how to do some or all of the work and farm it out because life is kicking you in the nuts at the moment.
Then again, there's also something to be said about folks who don't know how to do the work but are willing to dive in and learn as they go.

I'm not going to diss on the person who knows nothing and pays people. But I have a hell of a lot more respect for the other two types of people I mention.

 

the same agency thats getting people to steal cats has colluded with alignment shops to sell solo lca’s.

 

Thank you both for the complement. It's been a great truck. The guy I bought it from is impressed with how it looks now compared to when I got it.

@FirstGenVol I have mixed feelings about the MTs. They've been pretty great in snow, mud, and dirt. They're not too loud and are really durable. We have a lot of rocks on dirt roads and trails. But I can't help but wonder about a non E-rated tire and thinking the ride would be smoother.

 

Got some teaser photos just now.

 

Lost my key fob and ordered this of Amazon, key and fob in one. Looks just like my Camry key. Programmed it on my first try also.

look up your HYQ12xxx code before ordering to make sure it’s compatible with your year. Different years have different codes

$23 Beefunny 315MHz 4D67 Chip FCC: HYQ12BBX HYQ12BAN Upgraded Flip 2+1 3 Button Remote Key Fob for Toyota Celica Echo FJ Cruiser Prius (1)

Beefunny 315MHz 4D67 Chip FCC:...

 

I wish those worked for access/reg cabs

 

How did you program it?

 

What air pressure are you running in your tires?
Mine are ~35psi and don't ride poorly at all. E-rated Coopers in an AC just like yours.

 

Mmmmmmm Carolina Squat.

 

You think it looks low? Rear shocks haven’t been done but they don’t add height. New leafs are in. Maybe I didn’t spec enough lift?

 

The same agency also probably decides on suitable nick names for auto parts stores

 

On a note unrelated to what I got done to the Tundra today but totally related to the post I'm quoting, looks like my friend above was run up on gang/racketeering charges this week. https://www.wsbtv.com/news/local/at...arrested-buckhead/76BJUDSW2REPNNEUCBFJNGPNBI/

Meanwhile, totally related to the Tundra, while driving the kids to school this AM, I made a point of engaging 4HI a couple of times for some longer straight legs of the trip. I noticed something I've never noticed before.

If I disengage 4HI while giving at least some gas, it disengages smooth as butter.
If I disengage 4HI while coasting or braking, I get a very noticeable *clunk*.

It's possible this is completely normal and I've never noticed it before because I'm typically not disengaging below 1k RPM? Anyway, thought it was worth mentioning here in case there was something to look into.

 

My 4Hi engages and disengages smoothly, but I generally engage/disengage under no load, but in gear.
I don't like the idea of engaging or disengaging under a load, so I've never tried.

 

Engage is seamless for me whether I'm accelerating or coasting.
Disengage is seamless if I'm holding throttle or accelerating, but clunks if I'm coasting.

I'm not sure what I could possibly test on this to see if there's something noteworthy to deal with.

 

Maybe it’s the general direction the gears are cut. Whether your accelerating or decelerating, there’s a load on the gears. Load from engine power applied, or load from friction / drag from the vehicle weight when coasting. Mine is a crap shoot. Sometimes smooth as silk. Sometimes I get a noticeable clunk. Hasn’t let me down in 17 years though…

 

At jambo, i was in traffic, and both axles had to climb at the same time, well, back tires just spun, but i was in a hole, so i didnt have room to properly engage 4hi, but when it kicked in i got an alarming clunk. No damage, everything still works fine, but i think that was the first time its engaged under load. Gonna do my best not to let it happen again.

 

Definitely want both axles spinning at the same rate when engaging. Like rev matching a manual transmission shift so the gears mesh smoothly together.

 

damn, was just about to order one. why wont it work for access cabs?

 

Different frequency since the systems got a totally different computer

 

If you have your original remote, the AJT cases for them are pretty nice.

 

Watched this YouTube video to program it and had a local key shop cut it after I programmed it

this video is 05-06 double cab only I believe

https://youtu.be/Vmm61z_uy8M

 

Thanks for the responses. The AJT ones look cool but are a little bulky, plus I was excited at the prospect of a key/fob combo unit vs separate ones like I have now. Anyone know of one like that which is compatible with an 05 AC?

 

Do you know your FCC# it should be on the back of your remote/current fob

 

Not at the moment, drove a different car to work today. I can look when I get home tonight tho