1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Must be foot fetish day today.

 

Atleast your 10,000th post wasn’t about fleshlights or butt plugs.

 

Doesn't matter if it was or wasn't, because you got to bring them up anyway...

 

Exactly. It's like a negative space piece of art. It's about what isn't there that makes it interesting.

 

Yes, good that! I wasn’t even paying attention. Which was it me being bossy, nagging not-my-own-husband to see a doctor…?

 

I keep hoping I won't have to reference these anymore.

 

All DTV/ATSC, finally breaking down to cut cords. I live in a geographically weird bowl with most UHF/VHF towers less than 20 miles out. Topology makes it tough for a legitimate, well-rated "long-range" indoor/outdoor antenna w/loops & rod elements to get consistently good signals. Going up to attic level (25-30' above ground) is adequate for my situation, and I want to go with a more significant antenna than the Clearstream 4Max I've been using with decent success.

So I'm finally breaking down and re-wiring all 3 floors of the house properly: Beefing up my already small-enterprise-office-level network & infra in the house, updating cat5e=>cat6 for 10G+ wired speeds, expanding my PoE core and overhauling my wireless APs (all Ubiquiti), using the added PoE infra to clean and expand IP surveillance and a few other fun things, while also rewiring RF throughout the house.

Between '06-'09 I spent a couple of years building out and managing several headend labs, everything from mux & modulator to desk drop for a team of a few dozen engineers. Mostly QAM and QPSK signals, some IPTV, and ATSC OTA. When the company started offshoring to S. America and India, a lot of stuff got chucked.

I only know enough on that side to be dangerous, you guys probably know a hell of a lot more than me. RG59 was fine for most of what I was doing in our labs, running out to cubes, most stuff was within 30-40ft of the labs. I was told to keep the cables, tools, some signal equipment, a lot is still squirreled away at work. I've been holding onto this RG6 for a while, properly stored, knowing I'd eventually get to this point.

Now it's here. I've got my chase from the attic to the basement done. I just have this last 10ft to finish it all out, just need to install 6ft or so of 2" - 2.5" conduit over a hallway, through a tight-spot double-2x6 header and I can spend a saturday pulling and terminating

Hence the tool inquiry. There has to be a good way to go through that double header at about a 60-70deg angle without the drill getting hung up and slamming my hands into joists Edit: or stopping halfway through to try and pry a puck out of a holesaw

 

That cat just gets crazier.

 

No feet are safe.


He’s particularly fond of love handles and the backs of knees, and the insides of biceps, too.

 

And we're supposed to just ignore that you can't keep your dog off the pole, eh?

Who the hell taught your dog how to pole dance anyway? Jeebus man.

 

No poles were harmed in the capturing of that photo.

 

I read the earlier post when you put this question out there. It's been rolling in my head for a while, so here goes!
1- This all depends on how much workspace is available.
2- Depends on the size of your drill....H'mmmm, smaller the better here I imagine!
I would start off by chucking a 1/8" bit, drill the angle through the headers. Then, and here's two choices, first, get a 2.5" hole saw, they usually have a 1/4" pilot drill, and let the pilot follow follow the first hole, cut about 3/4" to 1" at a time, clear the hole with a chisel. Or, Get a 2.5" Forstner bit, but be careful they really wobble. It will follow the 1/8" pilot jole, but watch out. From personal experience there!! Got a pic or two of the location???

 

All the best tender bits! <ouch>

 

I have learned here that "without pics it never happened" I respect that and I will

 

Yup. Gotta fit it between the two lines in 1st pic due to the stud layout. Taking out the drywall on the wall won't help, I still can't get a good angle on it. On the other side of the chipboard is a staircase. Red circle is ballpark where I'd like to pop the hole. And in case anyone brings it up, there are two additional 2x6 walls about 48" in front of and behind horizontal to this one.

 

Maybe this would work?

$23 Right Angle Drill Adapter Right Angle Bend Extension Chuck 90 Degree Drill Attachment Adapter Power Electric Drill Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Degree-Attachment-Adapter-Electric/dp/B074N34JGJ

 

Pushing that flex duct out of the way doesn't free up enough space?

 

Or maybe this would be a bit smaller/easier?

$18 Dremel 575 Right Angle Attachment for Rotary Tools, Angle Drill Attachment, Perfect for Grinding, Drilling and Cutting

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005AXI0?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_T7151GKXSC6BDSPD8ANC

 

No. I'll send one if next try is unsuccessful.

 

Forstner bit, and a short piece of pvc pipe cut to the right angle to keep the edge of the bit from walking off.

 

Oh! I missed the first bit about it not being a straight down operation. Ignore these previously useless suggestions!

 

Are you trying to drill from top left of pic to bottom right of pic in that direction of angle, or reversed.
Does it really have to be angled?? A straight shot through wont do? If it will, how about a elongated rectangle made with a Oscillating Multi-Tool like this ..

 

How good are you with a sawzall? With a short blade you can plunge cut and rotate down to get through. Keep it short and you can chisel out the back side of the wall plate.

 

That would work too. You can rotate the head 90 degrees.

 

Jeez, @shifty` you have oodles of space to work with there, wtf?

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/3102-6

 

Just so I understand the situation, the blue arrow is pointing down to where you have the blue circle drawn. The blue circle is on a double 2x6 top plate of a bearing wall. You are trying to get a 2” hole in that double top plate?

My thoughts are one of those 90* angle things with a chuck as someone said above but instead of some long ass hole saw or forstner bit, start out with a unibit. I think HF has one for like $2 that tapers to 1 1/2”. At that point you can likely get a hole saw or paddle bit deep enough to keep it going.

Do you absolutely need 2” conduit or can you go smaller?

 

Too many dicks on the dance floor right now.

 

It does, enough to get the right-angle driver with any bit 6-7" (or less) comfortably at a 60-70ish degree angle on the header. Now here's the challenge: Find a 2" bit that auto-clears (i.e. not a hole saw) that will drill 3.5"+ deep and is less than 7" long.

I'm trying to drill down and forward. About 1/4-1/2" inside the corner of the 2x you see, to exit the double header approximately 1/4-1/2" inside the opposite corner.

I have an oscillating saw, would prefer a round hole for structural purpose.

See my last sentence replied to KK6

It's tight, pic is deceiving. When you get up in there with a typical an auger bit chucked, for example, the top of my right-angle driver literally contacts the upstairs subfloor at about 45 degree angle.

Yes on everything except load bearing. This wall is not load bearing, which I know you're probably, like, "wha?!" The main mid-house load bearing wall is actually behind me in the photo. The other is on the other side of the staircase behind the chipboard. But all the same, this is part of the reason I'd prefer to go with a minimal cut, round hole for rigidity, ideally 2" but if I can eek out 2-9/16", great.

Ideally I don't want to go less than 2" based on known jacket diameter of my cat6 and RG6.

 

We went and picked up Grill's new motorcycle today. 2021 kawasaki z650. 1452 miles. I rode it to a nearby church parking lot so she could familiarize herself with it. She took tomorrow off so we could go ride together.