2nd gen cluster

My guess is that's the correct one. I did a search and randomly found this on Facebook...the chip type seems about right. I don't see any other chips that are the same type in your pic that I would even guess are right.

 

Alternatively, @Tundra3k could ask his local guy maybe which chip he'll be removing/replacing?

 

I did a google search on that as well and found this info.. the problem is I am not sure if this is for the 1st Gen truck or 2nd Gen truck like ours.

I guess we will have to try it out and see. Really need to find the schematics for the 2nd Gen Instrument cluster to see which chip it is actually.

 

Finding internal ECU schematics is next to impossible. I have tried. The problem is most of these boards are made by 3rd party companies for Toyota. To get an actual drawing of the circuit you would have to be very close to someone internal to said company I would bet.

 

I will ask him when out when I pick up my cluster. Hopefully, I can give you guys an update later today.

 

Based on the overall Toyota chip-types they seem to use to store this data, I don't visually see anything else it could be. The rest are all much bigger or smaller and you wouldn't be able to use the programmer with them.

Worst-case, wouldn't you be able to just clip it on and see what it reads? The programs used should give you some info on that I would think. The one he used had all the brands/models of various cars out there...maybe it has info on where to read?

 

Making some assumptions here, but ALL the Toyotas they have listed in the docs section have a 93X type chip for "dash" and the ones with pics show the odometer...so I think it's somewhat safe to assume that you've identified the correct chip.

https://www.cardumps.com/unit/show/toyota/vitz/dash/file/41937

 

And this: https://www.cardumps.com/unit/show/toyota/tundra/dash/file/39199

Has it listed as the 93c66

 

Weeeeeee!

 

Hey is that chip read "S93A66" Also can you get the pic of the SKU for the instrument cluster. I think you said you have one from 2007 cluster. So different cluster have different chips. But I am willing to bet they are programmed the same way.

BTW I have the CH341A Programmer. I can make the changes to this. Now just need a instrument cluster to figure this out.

I too would rather not pay some guy off ebay. Also infomation like this should always be free.. some people may not want to do it and thats fine.. but some may want to do it via ebay..which is fine as well.

 

I just installed mine today, it works partially I would say at this point.

1) I had a little less than 1/2 a tank of gas when I plugged it in, and the needle moved to 1/4 empty and 55 miles till empty. I went and filled it at gas station, but the needle only moved to about 3/4 or maybe a little more. The miles remaining changed to 294, but as far as I could tell I filled the tank. On the way home the miles remaining did decrease, so idk, maybe I need to drive it around more.

2) I bought the Base Model 4x4 crewmax FFV (new in 2013) bc I wanted the bench seat since we have 4 kids and planned to do the nice upgrades with time. So, I had to run 2 wires from one plug to another when I added the Info Buttons (minus sonar) and they keep sliding out now so the middle button did work but won’t stay in. The other 2 buttons work without issue for now, but I need to find a better solution to make all 3 work all the time.

3) everything else seems to work and the only unexpected dash light is the “there’s a Pokémon Ball in my truck” alert on the RPM gauge

 

Here's an update on my chip swapping situation. He said the clusters weren't even made by the same manufacturers and the chips were slightly different but he still swapped them anyways. The original cluster is a 2012 and the optitron is a 2011. I installed it, everything works, the fuel quantity level matches the old one along with the "distance to empty".
The mileage is correct but it is constantly flashing. I'm going to take it back and have him program the chip and we should be good. Stay tuned for updates.

 

@FredB32 - I think this may be my particular issue.

I’m a 2013 FFV, put in a 2012 Sequoia optitron and the gas needle and mileage remaining seem to “work” but not be properly calibrated.

i had NO idea there were different sized gas tanks

so right this moment I’m not sure wut to do but I need a working gas gauge.

 

My two cents is it's not the gas tanks themselves, but the sending unit and/or the way the cluster decodes them. There have been similar issues when I've found the two trucks have the same size tank as well.

I *think* it's the 2012-13 swapped into an earlier truck that has the problem. But I've only validated Tundra info. I would have to find and pull the VIN and specifics for several years of Sequoia to compare those as well, and from the bit I've seen, their part numbers are wholly different, and I would also need a bunch of Sequoia owners and/or Tundra owners who have swapped Sequoia clusters in to start figuring anything out.

Based on my compiled info - 2007-11 Optitron clusters are the SAME for FFV and non-FFV. I'd think they would interpret and display the mileage correctly then regardless of fuel unit and tank size, although there's the possibility that even with the exact same part numbers, there could be some individual vehicle programming that plays a factor... But that would seem like a lot of work for the factory to deal with at production. I'll know for sure when I eventually get mine swapped.

 

So next question - has anyone looked at changing the needle colors on their new clusters? I'm thinking while I have it out... Maybe I'll see if what the LED swap guy did works on these and go for blue needles

 

hey, if I can find an optitron for my FFV truck then I will sell you mine for $80 (how much I paid last week on eBay) bc it at 54,000 miles, and I don’t care about miles I just want my gas gauge to work.

I’m a 2013 FFV 4x4 though.

 

How brave are you

If the FFV gauge is really a 1/4 tank off all the time you could plug in your older cluster, get the needle to a point to like 1/2 a tank. This means you know the correct value is 1/2.

Then plug in the FFV cluster, as you said it should read at 1/4. When the key on and the gauge working pop the needle off the shaft and reclock it to the 1/2 position on the shaft. Then fill the truck up and see if the needle moves to full like the old one should.

The movement of the gauge should basically be linear from the readings from the sending unit. Reclocking the needle could fix the “offset” maybe. If it doesn’t work it’s easy to reclock the FFV needle to 0 with the power off. There is a mark where it is supposed to be set that you can see when you remove the plastic cover.

EDIT: I take that back. I just pulled the cover off my 2007 cluster and it doesn’t show a mark for 0 on the needle. My 2014+ cluster is marked however

 

Didn't your cluster come from a sequoia? We may just have deal if they match up. I'm a '12 4x4 non-flex. 54,000 is perfect for me.

53,581

 

Well I do really like the idea to re-set the needle to match the ohm resistance or whatever instead of trying to mess with ohm load adjustments.

thanks @Jeff_5_7 for the idea!!!
I could also fill it up, and then take the FFV needle from 3/4 to full? Same thing I think.

What I want to do is find the oem wire harness that I need to go from that last plug to the back of the cluster bc my OEM one is missing the 2 wires needed for the Info Buttons. That would eliminate one issue for sure.

@Retroboy1989 - yes, this is from a 2012 sequoia and everything works perfectly except the gas gauge (due to my FFV), and the consistent “Pokémon Ball” alert

current pic as it sits, 54,564…

 

Yes I think as long as you have a good defined level where the needle should point, you can adjust the FFV needle to that. This should work I think. I’m not sure of an easy way how to check when your needle gets down to 1/4 of a tank to know it’s still right. On the off chance the FFV gauge sweep range is not the same

Does the new cluster not show the MPG and range values on the display? I noticed where you added the wiring for the info buttons, I guess you need that to change the value shown in the display?

The warning light is from a electric power steering malfunction. I guess the sequoia has electric power steering and your tundra doesn’t. The cluster can’t see the power steering ecu so it turns on the warning light

 

exactly, I need the info buttons in order to get the info center display to work properly and since I bought the base model that wire harness is missing 2 wires from it. So far that’s been the worst part of buying the base model. When I have the wires connected the info center works perfectly but it jiggles loose when I put the dash back.

Also, do you know if I can just “pluck” the needle off the face of the gauge, or is it secured somehow?

Thanks for the help

 

So you just slid the wires in the hole of the connector? You just need the right terminal on the wire to click it in properly. I have some here in Texas, or could show you where to buy them online.

Does the display still show data without the info button wiring hooked up? On my 2014 cluster one wire comes from the back of the cluster to the steering wheel. When you push the display button on the wheel, this wire is grounded and it cycles through the pages of the display. I wonder if your info button wiring works the same. You push a button it grounds the wire and cycles to the next value on screen. Or it changes the units if you ground a different wire.
What controls does having the info button wired up actually give you?

Yes I just use a horseshoe shaped trim pry tool to slide under the needle and pop straight up. It just slides on. A flathead screw driver could work also

 

What is the Pokemon ball error? Related to ffv?

 

I would love to purchase the proper wire harness, terminal thing. When I can I will open the dash again and take pics of what I need bc I really do not want to cut and splice something that I know I’m going to need to disconnect again in the future. Thank you very much Jeff!!!

This is from Jeff_5_7:
The warning light is from a electric power steering malfunction. I guess the sequoia has electric power steering and your tundra doesn’t. The cluster can’t see the powersteering ecu so it turns on the warning light

I was incorrectly assuming our Japanese brothers and sisters wanted to bring part of their culture to the West, but the electric power steering is also a solid theory

 

Sounds like you need something like this

$8 Nilight - 50004R 120 Pcs/60 Pairs Quick Splice Wire Terminals T-Tap Self-stripping with Nylon Fully Insulated Male Quick Disconnects Kit, 2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Term...keywords=Wire+Tap&qid=1645975246&sr=8-2-spons

 

Your probably don’t even have to take pictures. I have literally created wires and terminals for that connectors hundreds of times. I run a 2014+ cluster on my 2007, the plug is the same but Toyota moved most of the wiring to different pins on that 40 pin connector going into the cluster. My solution was to build a patch harness that plugs inline and crosses the wires from the 2007 pin location to the 2014 pin location. Anyway I can help you get terminals to properly install the 2-3 wires you are adding for the info buttons.

Here is one of the harnesses I have made.


I found this with a quick Google search. Most of the data that drives the cluster is sent on the CAN bus, communication line as I have said before. That cluster being from a sequoia is looking for information from the power steering ecu on the CAN. Your Tundra does not have this ECU so the cluster is turning on the warning light because it thinks somthing is wrong. The hard part is figuring out how to turn it off. 1) Just put a piece of black electric tape over it. Not really a fix but.. 2) Take it part and unsolder the LED from the board. This will take a little work. 3) Reverse engineer the CAN message and inject a fake message in to turn off the light. Too much work because you will need a microcontroller on computer chip to generate the message in place of the actual ecu.

 

So I got my cluster back from a local guy that works on speedometers but he made my mileage 100,000 more than what it's suppose to be smh. To top that off, he said he wasn't able to re-program it because it wouldn't work for some apparent reason. I got my refund and now frustrated and hoping that it is still programmable. I'll be sending it off to Tanin Auto and hopefully they can put the mileage to where it needs to be.

Also, I'm tempted to buy the kit from Amazon and tinker with it on my old cluster. I've done some chip programming in the past for fun so it shouldn't impossible to figure it out.

 

This is the chip that was in my Optitron cluster 93C66VI if anyone was wondering.

 

Well that's kind of a bummer. Do me a favor, tell Tanin I sent you over there as well...maybe a little grease to help along with with some forum discounts in the future? I've been emailing back and forth with them a little and was planning on sharing the info I've consolidated with them.

Maybe a dumb question...but if he just swapped the chips, then it wasn't really "him" making the mileage off, was it? It sounds like maybe the chips read/store information differently between the two clusters, so it's more likely that they're just not compatible without actually reprogramming them.

Did you get any more info/insight as to which chip it was?

Scratch that - saw your second post just now. I'd think the programmer I'm looking at would work on it. They have a list of a LOT of chips it should work with, but it trails off at the end...although it does appear to include the 93C66:

"AT93C46(16bit), AT93C46(16bit)-SOP8, AT93C46(8bit), AT93C46(8bit)-SOP8,AT93C46A, AT93C56(16bit), AT93C56(16bit)-SOP8, AT93C56(8bit), AT93C56(8bit)-SOP8,AT93C57(16bit), AT93C57(16bit)-SOP8, AT93C57(8bit), AT93C57(8bit)-SOP8, AT93C66(16bit),AT93C66("

 

He swapped chips at first and ended up swapping them back because the chips were different and the mileage was flashing. Followed by programming the new cluster, which he input the wrong mileage. He went back in to re-program it again and was not able to.
I’ve been communicating with Odometer Solutions from Florida will be sending it to them later today.

I still have my original cluster and thinking about experimenting with the programming when I don’t have anything to do lol.

I will keep you guys updated!