Drilled leaky holes fix

The previous owner attached a lightbar right above the windshield, and a rack onto the camper shell, both of which are great. Unfortunately, he/she did so without rubber washers or sealant of any kind.

I grabbed some gorilla silicone sealant to use. I’m planning on backing out each screw/bolt, filling the holes, and putting them back in. Any tips/wisdom on doing this or additional things to do?

Will try to add photos later, but we’re currently frozen here in Texas and it’s nice inside.

 

I don't have any tips but I want to install a roof rack soon. Post pictures please!

 

Clean it throughly and use some rubbing alcohol around the holes prior to silicone. And make sure it’s dry. Cold temps will take it longer to cure.
Make sure there’s no rain in the forecast for a few days!
It’ll help to have a friend hold
The nuts under the shell as you tighten!

 

Oh man, I can’t find the pics, but a trainer at my gym had a brand new Roush F-150 that he paid 70k for and he wanted to add a light bar. He drilled into his roof and bent tabs out of aluminum flat bar, and drilled a giant hole for the wire.

He knew I knew about cars. So he asked me how to fix the leaking issue. First off the light bar was a cheap China bar and was completely crooked and uncentered. The hole for the wire was wallowed out 1/2 hole and was completely open.

Then I noticed the aluminum hood was dented on both sides, found out he was kneeling on the hood installing the bar. Then I noticed on one of the sides he drilled through the entire roof into the cab.

He said he was going to put stickers over the holes to seal them. I told him take this to a body shop and see if they can even fix it, then sell it, by a responsible vehicle and never work on anything yourself ever again.

I was sick to my stomach after seeing it. Worst ghetto fab I have ever seen.

 

You may want to consider painting the drilled holes, just to protect the exposed edge of metal, and keep the existing paint from wicking moisture.

 

To this point on silicone, since nobody's said it yet ... be aware only certain types of silicone are auto-body panel safe, ones that aren't will promote rust rather than stop it. Some silicones release acetic acid while curing which won't do you any favors. I forget what to look for to ensure you've got the right stuff - I feel like it's "neutral" something-or-other. The stuff marketed specifically for auto glass/windshield use (but you DO NOT want 'flowing' windshield stuff) is always a safe bet.

 

As others have stated, proper prep is necessary.

I'd use this product for any roof penetration.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066983/

 

Thank you guys. I appreciate the help.