Metal oil filter housing

Anyone have any experience with the Fokes metal oil filter housing? Amazon says it fits my tundra and apparently, my daughters RAV4. Just wanna make sure it fits, doesn’t leak, etc. thx

FOKES Oil Filter housing Cover ,Compatible with Toyota 4Runner Avalon Camry Fj Cruiser Highlander RAV4 Sienna Tacoma Tundra Venza more. Replace 15620-31060 1562031060 15643-31050(Aluminum)

$16 FOKES Oil Filter housing Cover,Compatible with Toyota 4Runner Avalon Camry Fj Cruiser Highlander RAV4 Sienna Tacoma Tundra Venza more. Replace 15620-31060 1562031060 15643-31050(All Aluminum)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08K3D11TB

 

You will need to swap the internal screen/tube/flter holder that is currently inside your plasic housing. Simply pop the tabs loose and twist it out then install it in the new housing.

 

Cool. Thank you!!!

 

Why not just go OEM for a few bucks more?

$22 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A?_encoding=UTF8

I'd imagine you would be fine with aftermarket though...

 

Thank you my brutha!!! Just changed out the aftermarkets with two of these on Amazon. Bummer it doesn’t come with drain plug but I’ll use old one

 

Curious…. What’s the reason for a metal filter housing? Are the originals breaking? Are folks cross-threading them? I haven’t had a problem, but maybe I’m just lucky so far?

 

From what I've read seems that breakage can happen if some knucklehead mechanic overtightens etc.

 

So this is same part for my tundra and daughters RAV. Just the oil filter tube inside gets swapped. One of the side tabs on my daughters RAV broke last oil change

Sask, you are correct. This was the first oil change I did on the RAV. It was a CPO for my oldest daughter. I had to use a cheater bar to get the damn housing off. The housing! One tab cracked. Was still useable but since it’s due for another oil change soon, figured I’d upgrade it and get another to put on my tundra once I’m done with my last free dealer oil change, also coming up soon!

 

That's what I did with mine. OEM. Swap the internal tube.

Why? After two years of "Toyota Care" I went to change the oil. Took a breaker bar, yes a breaker bar, to get the filter housing off. I'm not a small or weak guy.

Can't see damage in a composite structure the way that you can in a metal one. I just didn't trust the housing after wheel bolt - level torque was applied by the "Toyota Care" technician.

Of course, he was kind enough to dent my transmission cooler and leave me a magnetic metal tray, with bolts in it, stuck to the transmission cross member after over-torquing the heck out of the filter housing...so, I guess I shouldn't complain...I got a new tool and extra bolts out of his ineptitude.

Composite filter housings have lasted 20 years in service on my Volvo engines. Nothing wrong with them intrinsically, but when a moron gets ahold of it, well, all bets are off.

And the metal housing is moron insurance, should I ever let Toyota work on my truck again.

 

exactly why I’m getting a metal one

 

The original is plastic. The torque rating on the cap is only 18 ft lbs. The majority wind up cracking the plastic ones because they don’t have the proper tools and applying more than 18 lbs is way to easy without a torque wrench. The metal is obviously a little more robust, but the torque rating is the same.

 

I over-torqued and cracked the plastic housing on my old Tundra once. It was my fault. I would normally just give it a feel for tightening and it always worked fine, but one day I was changing the oil at my parents' place and decided to use a cheap torque wrench my dad had. Never felt the click. Over-torqued it, realized it couldn't be right so I took it back off and tried again. Felt the barely perceptible click the second time... Fired up the truck and heard oil gushing everywhere. Couldn't even see the fracture in it when I had taken it back off. It was midafternoon on a Saturday; started frantically calling dealerships looking for one that was still open with the part in stock. Just barely made it that day.

I've since traded that Tundra for a '21. Haven't done the first oil change yet, but I bought the OEM metal housing for when I do.

Incidentally I also bought myself a couple of higher quality torque wrenches too...

 

Will you look and see if my diff drop related skid plate spacers are in that tray? Last oil change idiot decided those weren’t necessary. On one hand, he right. Once you get all the bolts in, just keep cranking them tight. The skid will gently form itself around the important stuff…

 

It bugged me that my '14 sienna has a metal housing while my '12 Tundra had a plastic one. Really didn't have a reason other than that... I went aluminum on my first oil change.

 

The drain plugs are identical between plastic and aluminum. Don't forget to swap the cylindrical screen on the tundra housing. There is a picture our there of a collapsed oil filter element from someone who did forget.

Edit: found it https://www.tundras.com/threads/ok-hate-me-for-this-oil-filter-cap-replacement.94863/

 

I swapped mine out with the OEM metal housing last Tuesday when I did my first non-freebie oil change. The center tube seems tricky to get out, but all you have to do is push down and pull back so the tabs pop out. Just as easy to put the longer tube in.

And for those who ask why? My bet is that the majority of these plastic housings won't last the few hundred thousands of miles I plan to put on my Tundra. There are just too many things that can crack the plastic, from dropping it to added brittleness of changing the oil in cold temps.

 

Whats left of mine, breaker bar, pipe wrench and Dremel.....not good.

 

Holy crap - was it really that stuck?

 

https://youtu.be/UxsIvCSZPS8
Great video on this.

 

I guess they just couldnt swing that extra 18 cents worth of aluminum to make that neck as long as factory so we dont have to swap it over. It would honestly be better if they just didnt even include it, that way it would remind everyone to move it over and not trust that short one.

 

It was on that tight....if i had to blame anyone; the tech who did the last oil change at the dealer.

 

Planning on doing this soon. Are the torque specs different on the metal housing?

 

Just changed my oil today. If you get the chance to pick up a Jowett Performance 6061 aluminum oil filter cap goooooo for it.

 

In the video he bends the tabs. No need to do this. Just use a trim removal tool and apply a little pressure to the tube above the tab and it pops right out
.

 

It's made for 3.5 liter cars. They need the shorter tube due to filter length.

 

Did not know that.

 

Yeah. I learned it today when I had to convince the parts dipshit that I knew what I wanted. Had to make him go get a plastic one and put them side by side. Took about 4 seconds to slip the screen out, with no tools or excess force.
Simply press in on the screen to compress the screen and slide the base of the screen toward one side of the base where the retainer dohickie is located. With the screen skewed to the one side, the opposite will be able to tilt away from the retainer. That was tough to explain. Easy to do.


Guess I’ll be installing this at the next oil change…