What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If you were going to use a small internal antenna, it would make more sense just to ground antenna to frame? Vehicle becomes one big antenna.

It's the one other thing I remember from my earlier days, but this would've ended around the time FGT started being made: People swapping out for stubbies complaining about how they've lost half the distance on their key fobs.

Some of the alarm systems I installed back in the 90s did have a little 8" (ish) wire lead off the brain, though. So that definitely was a thing in the aftermarket stuff. I just haven't seen it with OEM keyless entry.

 

@shifty` I would be interested in what you specifically suggest for my truck? I don't think my dad would use remote start, but am not against adding it. Would be nice to at least have a fob to lock/unlock it. I'm most concerned about battery drain when not in use, this will be a second vehicle for him. What are your thoughts on an alarm? I worry some about theft, but don't know that the alarm helps much.

 

I usually only recommend a new aftermarket alarm if there's an existing aftermarket security system in the car, especially if it's one of the POS ass KARR systems. Mostly because any self-respecting shop would correctly and carefully remove the KARR system and replace it with something modern, worthwhile. But at least one member on here has simply hired a shop in their home state of CA to remove the KARR system.

If you go aftermarket alarm, you don't necessarily need to do all of the fancy extras either. There are really basic kits out there, but you're talking a couple of bucks per feature on a lot of things.

With stuff like this, I tried to have basic workflows to go through with indecisive customers, or people who knew they wanted or needed something. Like, with words because pitchers is hard ...

First, does the car have any existing fob features, OEM or aftermarket?

In our 1GT, OEM would either be the RS3000 (for earlier models) or RS3200 (for later models). Aftermarket could be something installed by the dealer pre-sale, or added by a previous owner.

A lot of people are 2nd+ owners of their truck and don't know if they had or still do have a security system installed, they only got a key at purchase -- it could be your truck already has one of the OEM systems installed, and it may even have an aftermarket alarm installed, but your OEM system should still work, you just need to know which you have to know which fob to buy!

So, the first step in any case is to find out the default location of the RS3000 and RS3200 and see if either exists on your truck. At least with the later model RS3200-enabled trucks, we had the 'Toyota Security" thing in the dash, next to the fog light and rear sliding window switch or whatever.

If not, I'd do what @daveeasa recommended and pop off the lower trim panel under the steering column, pop off the door sill and driver kick panel, and look long and hard for any wire splicing, wires running around that aren't in a loom, any disconnected harnesses, unexpected black boxes, or other buttons.

Once you have that info ...
​

Second, what do you want or need, either for added features or key fobs?

If you just need a key fob, doing the investigation above is going to tell you what your options are, and if you need to do anything extra.

Like, say you have an aftermarket alarm installed. You can usually look at the "brain" box to identify what brand it is, and/or the age. Sometimes that info is on the plastic box itself, other times it's silkscreened onto the printed circuit board (PCB). Most aftermarket alarms have dipswitches on the PCB to set configurations, so the plastic case must open to access those, though some will offer access through the case for major stuff.

Big decisions:

Knowing the lifespan of an average aftermarket security system is 10-15 years, do you use the model number to get a replacement remote?

Or, if you find you have both aftermarket and an RS3xxx OEM system in your vehicle, do you just carefully remove it and patch your wiring back together, then go back to factory because you don't need anything other than lock/unlock?

Or, if you have both, do you just unplug the 'brain' of the aftermarket system, confirm you can still start the car with it removed, then use the OEM RS3xxx OEM system?

Maybe you don't have an RS3xxx OEM system at all. You may or may not have an aftermarket alarm and you'd like the added features features a more-modern aftermarket alarm provides, so you want to add a new aftermarket alarm one or replace your old one. DEI (Directed Electronics) is one of the largest providers out there and can help you find an installer via their website.

Some features you may want in a modern alarm:
- Starter kill to kill the vehicle's ability to start while the system is armed, preventing theft
- Remote door lock/unlock, and even window roll-up/roll-down, including venting features to crack or roll down the windows from a distance
- Vibration sensor, which may be able to detect someone cutting off your cats, or tamper, i.e. someone trying to pry a door or window
- Glass break sensor, which can detect someone breaking your glass
- Remote start, for those cold days when you don't want to get near your vehicle or need to cool it down on a summer's day
- Add relays for any number of other features inside your vehicle
- Two-way fobs to see the current status of your vehicle, within range, some even cellular-data enabled, some up to a 1-mile range for alerts etc.

Really, you can build just about anything.
​

TL;DR version:

Start digging, figure out if you have an OEM or aftermarket brain installed.
Use that to determine your current options for the future.
Make an informed decision of how to proceed based on those options - do you need to install or uninstall anything?
If you need to install or uninstall, decide if you need a qualified shop or not.
Be expected to pay $50-120/hr labor whatever you decide to do, which varies based on complexity and location.
​

 

Finally finished up at work. Here's a 5-minute flowchart to help you with your alarm decision. Start at olive box in the middle, and know flowcharts aren't my thing.

 

Curious to see how these have held up over the last 6 months

 

New wheels and tires are on.

Stock wheels powdercoated to match Magnetic Grey Metallic wrapped with Maxxis Razr AT 285/70/17 rubber.

 

Super nice - Yew! Are you running more travel than stock control arms or is it camera perspective?

 

This is a post reply. @shifty` raises the bar time after time.

 

Camera perspective. Just a 2.2” lift.

 

Your truck looks great. I want more trucks.

 

Dang man, I quoted myself

Seems borderline narcissistic, eh?

 

borderline?...and yes

 

I could've really gone nuts and made a flowchart that never ends.

 

I for one would not be surprised. However, save your brain power for me. I appreciate you more than theses other imposters.

 

Sick, I still love them. Absolutely no regrets.

 

Pulled the front bumper, clocked the winch to move the lever inboard to fit the bumper. Installed winch and bumper. Bonus, you can’t free spool and steal my cable. Not bonus, I can only free spool with the hood up. But it fits.
Making a bracket for the solenoid. If this works I’ll add a second support.

 

Ferrous Bueller Oxide already got clutches on that one.

 

Yeah, I didn’t spend much time on it as a test piece. But it works great, I should have wire brushed it on the grinder…

 

There is a fair amount of wire in that bumper now. The alt solenoid location allowed me to use supplied wire/cable. I was all prepared to start cutting up 2ga or even 2/0, but didn’t need it.

 

I’ve got the same bumper. I drilled some holes and cut a slot for the wires to pass through so I could hard mount my solenoid on the top of the bumper.

 

I saw that a while ago...and thought about doing the same. But I preferred not to go on top if I could help it - I may add tube up there at some point. I see you clocked your gear handle forward. Sweet.

 

This looks killer, kinda makes me wish I had went with the razors over the grabbers. They were on the short list for sure

 

Indeed I did. It doesn’t fully spin though, so kind of dumb. My bumper is off right now getting modified to fix some boo-boos. One of my plans is to enlarge the cutout for the clutch lever so it stops fouling, or just grinding down the clutch lever until it doesn’t foul. Option one I think will be the cleanest but option two is easier.

 

My truck came with great documentation, but surprisingly no owners man. Ordered these on the bay. I have a couple of pretty cool showroom brochures as well. I'll post some more pictures now that this feature is working for me.

 

I had Razr M/Ts and was impressed for the price. These ATs ran me $1,083.xx mounted/balanced/stems. IMHO, they look like the forbidden lovechild of a Nitto Ridge Grappler and BFGoodrich T/A KO2s. The severe snow service rating is certainly a plus as well. Although here in Arkansas, it usually snows once a year for only a few days. Our highway department isn’t really ready for any major snowfall.

I’m sure the grabbers are excellent tires as well though. Almost all tires from a reputable brand being used in the environment they were designed for, should work well.

 

Some have ground it down, consider moving it back like mine. No clearance issues and raising the hood is good winching safety.

 

1st Gen threads(s) have the most game. Period.

 

I thought about it, but with synthetic winch line I'm not too worried about stuff flying back at me. The convenience of free spooling easily would be nice.

 

@alb1k this was the other winch accessory I was talking about

$15 Bubba Rope 251610 The Grabber Synthetic Winch Line Attachment 1" x 3-3/4" Fit all brands in Orange, Accessory Ideal to attach any synthetic winch line to your winch drum

https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-2...t=&hvlocphy=9030231&hvtargid=pla-627579835127

 

Ahhh. Bubba rope apparently makes some legit gear. I was browsing their stuff and some reviews last week.