Home made Cat Shields?

If you are in Houston, check Craigslist for Toyota Tundra Cat Protection Plate.

 

As far as making holes in the plate/shield I started with an 1/8th inch pilot hole, then used a step drill up to about 7/16. When doing it this way it goes really quick.

 

Hopfully now that I have a Tundra, NO MORE on my back in a snowy driveway. This time was a necessity.

 

Nice job man! looks like its factory made.

 

It might ward of a thief, just be mindful that he may be able to bend it out of the way.

 

As far as bolts go, if you can get tanper proof then do it. My neighbor lost her Prius cats and they unbolted it.

 

What’s the overall width and length of your plate?

 

Thought I should let you all know the total cost for this was:
Steel $50, por-15 paint $40 and stainless hardware $25 for a total of $115

 

Great work!

 

The length front to back is about 31.5". This covers from the front crossmember(just behind the oil pan and drain plug) to the rear cross member.
The width is hard to measure as it is on an angle, but it is just inside the frame rails.
This design allows air flow not only from front to back, but also along the sides of the plate.

 

Very cool. You all are talented. I have been thinking about a cat plate. I may have to hire one of you. Lol

 

I put one together that looks similar to all the ones on here. Cut it out of 1/8 stainless. Shoot me a PM if you want the dimensions.

 

Cardboard templates to 3/16” aluminum. I had to teach myself CAD but 2 coworkers cut and bent them for me.

 

That is some beautiful work. You should sell them.

 

Post pics after install. The rear with the lip is what I am interested in seeing. Thanks.

 

Thank you, but I don’t want the liability and it wouldn’t pay enough to justify my time.

I need to put it on a friend’s lift to get good pics but here’s a few poor ones to tide you over until then.

 

Where did you get the cool bolt covers?

 

It's a security washer. https://www.barnes4wd.com/38-to-716-Bolt-Head-Protector_p_1308.html

I had to modify the socket for my penta head bolts so it would fit inside the washer.

 

I've thought about making my own plates but I tend to over think ideas for a long time and then suddenly knock out parts over a weekend after a year or 2.

One idea I've noodled is to form heat extraction louvers instead of simple drilled holes. I had played with underbody panels on my last car. Some race cars have vent panels in the hood or on underbody panels for heat extraction. The shape of the vent causes air pressure to pull out the hot air from the other side. Maybe could buy some small hood vents and bolt or weld it to plate rather than forming them myself. Also, louvers could get bent shut and defeat their intent if driven off-road and dragged over stuff. In that regard, holes might be better anyway.

I think it was the Valhalla thread where I questioned about better mpg due to possible improved aerodynamics from the plates as well. Smoothing out the underside of a vehicle is good at least as far as the math goes but may not be enough to be meaningful on these trucks. No one in that thread saw a difference by the way.

 

@Zeroman are you looking to make another cat shield and sell it? Yours is very clean and enough to deter a cat theft.

 

I have made a few, but I recently took a job out of town, so I am not making anymore at this time.

 

@Zeroman will let me know if you want spare cash when you get back home. Your homemade shields look high quality and clean.

 

sorry it took so long but here are a couple of better pics of the install

 

Man that is super clean. Nice job!

 

If you’re referring to mine, thanks. I need to paint the bolt head protectors. I thought they were stainless but they rusted up pretty quick so I guess not.

 

How were you able to fasten and secure the rear cat shield bolts. I'm looking up at mine with templates and it looks difficult to hold a wrench on the top nut with the rear plate blocking access.

 

It's complicated.
I reamed out the bottom of the hole in the cross member to 7/8” with a step drill bit so that a 5/8” deep socket will just fit. Then I dropped a black 3/8” grade 5 Eye-bolt (from Lowe’s) down from the top. Put a couple of 3/8” nuts in the deep socket so that the black nut that comes with the Eye-bolt is almost sticking out of the end of the socket. Balance a lock washer and a flat washer on the end of the socket and carefully stick it up the hole and get it started on the Eye-bolt. Then you need to remove the extra nuts from the socket so you can tighten the black nut without interference. I used an adjustable spud wrench to stick in the eye to keep the bolt from turning. I put it on tight. (Didn’t use torque wrench so not sure how tight.) I think and hope it deformed the top hole a little to conform to the Eye-bolt. Next I put a couple of extra nuts on to act as a spacer. The last step is balance another lock washer and flat washer on top of a 3/8” coupler nut and screw it on. This left the coupler nut sticking below the cross member about 1/4”.
I now have a “fixed nut” protruding below the cross member so my plate doesn’t touch the cross member and I don’t have to back it up with a wrench to install my security bolts from the bottom.
I believe I had to shorten the Eye-bolt so that the measurements would work out such that the Eye-bolt and security bolt could both thread in about half way otherwise the Eye-bolt is way too long.

I am planning on installing another one for a friend soon and I will try to remember to take measurements of everything this time.
Takes me less than 10 minutes to remove both plates alone and about 15 to get them back on.

 

Not my handy work, but always get a kick out of it