5100 tire sizes

Hey folks, sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer so I can't make enough sense with the stickied threads so I need some advice.

Got a 2019 Crewcab 4x4 TSS used, original owner put Bilstein 5100 on the lower level as a leveling kit. This truck has 20" wheels btw. Tires are finally wearing down so now's my chance to change things. I'm thinking of putting the Bilstein's to the top level and adding a 1 or 2" coachbuilder on the rear to make everything clean (I do not mind a little rake at all). My biggest concern is that I want to start some overlanding and light off-roading with the family so I want the AT biggest tires I can realistically install given these modifications. I can massage the wheel wells and mess with the flaps, but realistically with a topped out 5100 on the front end and a 2" coachbuilder in the rear what size tire can I really run? Thanks homies...

 

look at this yet? I don't have a G2.5....
https://www.tundras.com/threads/largest-tire-you-can-run-stock-for-all-generations.9762/

 

Yes I saw that, I guess my confusion is do the 5100's at the top position fall under the "1.5 to 2" leveling kit" or would I be able to move up to the "3" lift" category?

 

1st thing... a strut lift (<3.5") will not solve any clearance issues unless you get >35" tires. If you want it to never rub, you'll need to do the same mods regardless of lift.

With 35s you don't need any lift. For 37s your lift is sufficient (to keep from hitting the fender/top of wheelwell). To minimize the amount of hacking you need to do for 37s, get some old Rock Warrior wheels (for the +50mm offset) and 37x12.5r17 tires. You'll need a BMC, flaps gone, swaybar removed, skid modded, bumper spacers, and plastic massaged. None of that is very difficult. 37s look great on a Tundra.

If you are carrying a load or offroading, I don't think a shackle lift in the back is a good idea, unless you get taller bumpstops as well. When you bottom out the springs would be bent further and will flatten.

 

Put an Eibach 2.5 inch spring on it, it will ride much better than a preloaded spring.

 

It's a 700 lb spring, so the amount of preload to get the same lift is the same. It's just longer, so you get the preload with the perch on a lower spot on the shock.

 

It took me a few days to process this, I originally thought height would fix rubbing issues. Now I think you are saying that the lift isn't the real issue, but that the main issue is when you actually turn the tires to max articulation is when they will start rubbing. If I only want 35" tires (which is accurate) than I need to start looking at other remedies besides just lift.

 

Yep, you got it. The lift will only help until you compress the suspension.

Are you wanting to stick with your 20" rims? If so, look at 285/65r20s. You won't need spacers or much wheelwell modding. They are typically 34.6" diameter, but so are tires that are listed as 35" oddly enough. Very easy to fit those... flaps off, trim or bend the skidplate where the front edge of the tire hits it... should be enough.

 

Thanks rruf, I wasn't planning on changing wheels, I honestly don't off-road enough at this point to warrant new 18" wheels so I'll stick with what I got. 95% of my driving is on highways for work so I have to be realistic, but sometimes I get stuck in the sticks and I'm also trying to get the friends with mall jeeps to wheel so I want to be capable. So, if I'm stuck keeping my the 20" wheels you're saying I can do 285/65's with a little hammering and pounding? Its a bit silly, but I do a lot of conference calls while driving so I need tires that aren't too loud and that has currently been an issue. On that note I am adding sound deadening to the truck this weekend: doors and floors.

Appreciate your insight man.

 

I suppose you could hammer the skidplate to get it out of the way (if you want to beat on something , but otherwise just removing the mudflaps will probably be enough.

Check reviews on the tires I linked above. The Michelin is probably the quietest, but the Hankook, Cooper, Yokohama, and Falken are good tires and should be pretty quiet.

If you lift the front I'd keep it ~1.5-2", and then you don't need to lift the rear. You'll get better alignment numbers, and less wear on the CVs too, vs a taller lift. That's what the Tundra Pros come with.

 

Thanks man, I'm looking at those tires now. The Michelins look like they belong on a 1980's jalopy so I wouldn't want to think about using those. All the other ones look ripe so I'll use them as my starting point. I truly appreciate you helping out newbs like me.