What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

That sounds legit. I should've been a Toyota technician

 

I've heard of this swap bit I'm not sure if it's just a replacement or an upgrade. Seems the former would make more sense to me as the t100 is an older truck. But I don't know. Asking for a friend lol

 

The longer that rod is, the more it's pushing into your master cylinder, more braking. But, if you are at the shortest adjustment, any chance of a seized caliper? Is it pulling or no?

Edit: I just saw you have parts off another truck.

 

I know this all too well myself

 

My thinking was correct, albeit a fucked up way I explained it.
No pulling. Even drag on the brakes up front.
https://youtu.be/Hym2b8e0aro

Full lock up of rear right wheel when pressing the pedal. Only way my V6 will burn rubber.

Guess I'm going to pull the MC and booster again as I have no way to cut the rod in the truck.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/t100-brake-booster-upgrade.86375/

 

Tried to upgrade my bulbs to LEDs today but ran into a few problems.

Installed the smartTap LED flasher relay without issues.
Realized yesterday after reading on here that the front side markers have two bulbs not one so I was already two bulbs short but tried it out on one side anyways.
Put switchbacks in the front turn that are white and then blink amber when turning but they are too white compared to the headlights so I’m going to just use amber LEDs instead. Just gotta order 4 instead of two.

Tried to put the rear bulbs for the turns in and found they don’t click into the socket or stay very well due to the ventilation collar being too close.

Ordered different ones and will do those this weekend.
Swapped the red running/brake bulbs and they appear brighter.
Before^^^
After^^^

Also swapped out the backup bulbs for brighter LEDs.

 

https://youtu.be/7_kWk-E6m0s

A bit out of order, but hey lol

 

So far I've been pretty lucky with my LED. No headlights or turn signals though. Backup, running, brake.

 

Well that didn't take as long as I thought it would.

Booster out. Rod cut. Reinstalled. I cut a hair too much off this time. I had to to pull the rod slightly towards the brake pedal to get everything to line up. Not much, but noticeable to me. Hopefully there won't be any issues with it...

Also only have enough fluid for one more round of bleeding.

If thus doesn't work, I'll have to let Bruce figure it out as I'm out of time until the 10th.

 

Brakes are bled. Feels like actual brakes. Very similar to crackie. Maybe a little better.

Video incoming.

Can't objectively say that this is better than the stock booster as my booster was found to be completely toast. So...

 

Does that cause a shorter stub on the side that mates to the master? If so did you extend it at the other side to fit the master reciever port?

 

Slightly yes.

I tried to adjust it, but my fingers were purt near froze. Couldn't do much with it. Tiny little gap between rod and MC seat.

 

If it stops it stops, so I wouldn't sweat it at this stage. There is a SST to extend the outer rod until it kisses the MC reciever. Keep an eye out for an aftermarket solution for when you are ready to pull it of again.

 

Ordered a fuel door lock off flea bay for $50 including shipping. Just need to get a key for my doors now. And a set of spares...

 

All this brake booster talk @Tundra2 got me inspired to chase down a slight noise I’ve had in the drivers footwell. I assumed it was a circuit board crackling related to an old alarm. So I removed all the alarm wiring only to find it was still there. I noticed it was correlated to braking (and only with engine running) so I got out a stethoscope and tracked it down to the [edit] brake booster. I need help to determine wtf is actually going on. Am I leaking a bit of pressure from bad seal? Is that noise actually brake fluid being forced through pinhole leaks at the back of the master and into the booster? Have I got a vacuum leak perhaps? Other than the noise it seems to function fine. I mean I could always use more stopping power but it’s not terrible. Anyway, here’s a video of the noise. Any insight from you gents would be greatly appreciated! Your knowledge and willingness to share is what makes this site so rad!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Xoc48fJX0s

 

https://youtu.be/S6xp3jxeTME

 

My swing in the dark would be to check vacuum.

 

How would you be able to hear the master inside the truck? Seems like that noise would either be the vacuum leak mentioned above or your booster. It doesn't sound that abnormal to me.

 

Got the FGT in the driveway today for the first time in a while. Trying to decide which of the 100+ projects to tackle. I think cab 3rd brake light but also highly tempted to try to get the backup camera working.

 

I vote backup camera. That was one of the best additions to the truck I made.

 

Back up cam. You can show me what you did

 

Ok, I agree on utility as well. I have it loomed but I need to solve for the reverse trigger to head unit as well as camera power. Add a fuse is sufficient for temporary power but tapping the reverse off the relay is a tight squeeze. I’ll see how that goes.

 

I used the backup light as the trigger and the camera feed wire (yellow RCA) had a red wire attached to it. I used that for the reverse trigger feed for the radio. I wired the camera always hot on ignition so I could turn it on anytime I wanted from the radio, in addition to automatically coming on in reverse.

 

I might look at mine today. Did you add a fuse anywhere @KNABORES ?

 

Yep, exactly my plan too. Just also that I need to do a new trailer connector and that isn’t quite ready to go so I have more taps off the taillight. One easy option is a temporary vampire tap off the already tapped old taillight for now since that’s going to be replaced. But if I run reverse to the cab then I also want to run brake and parking light at the same time, and feed trailer brake controller backwards so now I’m snowballing. Hah.

 

No fuse between the backup light and the radio reverse trigger.
I used the always on power from the 7 pin trailer wiring for the camera power. No fuse there either.

 

Oooh, hmm, you're not concerned about battery drawdown? Probably very minimal. I definitely want my camera ignition switched but I see the ease of going that way. Since I have to run the video feed anyway I'm going to source power in the cab for the camera.