General Supercharger Thread

I ordered a Harrop kit around the first of Nov. Supposed to be here in late Dec or early Jan. All the supply lines being clogged will make me wait.

Will do the install myself, BTDT from years back. Interesting to read about some of the issues with the Tundras. I will update after install. In the meantime all I can do is read about other's adventures.

The only other mods to the truck are the full race exhaust from Dirty Deeds and the JBA headers. And a 4'" lift and 35" tires. Oh and it is a DCLB so it needs more torque.

 

Assuming IGN is your timing advance, it will run less advance (retard) under more throttle/load. Those numbers sound right, for cruising and idling around it'll be in the 30s and at WOT drop into the teens. If you hear pinging that is usually a combination of needing better fuel and running less timing (lower number) though the truck should do that automatically if it detects knock. With that gauge you wont be able to know if it's retarding timing due to knock, but generally those numbers match what I've seen at least.

AFR if you stomp it will immediately dump fuel and go into open loop, meaning it's not basing the fueling off of sensors because the time it would take for the sensors to get data and then adjust is too long. So simply, yes it's looking at throttle position, obviously how the truck controls AFR in general is a lot more complicated though. 11.9 or there abouts (I always forget) is the richest the stock sensors can read, meaning in reality you were probably richer than that and the truck just has no way of knowing (but again, it's open loop so it's essentially blindly dumping fuel so that's not a bad thing it can't read richer, it just makes you blind to what your real afr is). That is normal too, the common afr I've seen people shoot for is ~11.5 at WOT which is also what Viktor has mine setup for.

Take away, it seems normal. Next time actually floor it and I'm sure it'll go faster

 

Should have mine by the weekend, let us know what kind of number you get.

 

Will do

been watching videos today on how to use it

it gets here Monday

 

doing an oil change this weekend.

found a Blackstone test in the cabinet.

I'll send in a sample (w/TBN)

I've been running Kirkland 0w-20 since 4500miles. 5000 mile intervals.

I'll bet you it's as clean as ever.

Apparently it has about 19 dyno runs on this oil. Let's see how Costco treats the 5.7L.


My '06 sequoia would do 7500miles per oil change. I sent in a sample & had about 3000 more miles left on the oil. I loved that SUV.

 

I will do a proper yeeting of the skeet on Tuesday.

on clean oil.

Dragy comes in Monday.

 

I bet some friction modifiers in your engine oil, diffs and the transfer case will help you shave off another 1/2 second from 0-60. They really shine on acceleration, not so much for steady state. I have tried a few with no ill effects and will continue to use them.
Let me know if you want some suggestions.

 

you have piqued my interest.

please expound.

 

This is what I currently have in my engine:
8 quarts of 15w40 Delo SDE (conventional) - switching to Castrol GTX 10w30 conventional for the winter
4 oz of ZDDP additive (

$18 Red Line 81403 Engine Oil Break-In Additive - 16 Ounce

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INKQD8) - wear protection
8 oz of PTFE/Teflon additive (https://www.fluoramics.com/tufoil/tufoil-for-engines/) - low pressure friction modifier
4 oz of graphite additive (

$56 Krex Graphite Engine Lubricant 4 Fl. Oz. - 6 Bottles

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Y2OY2C) - low-mid pressure friction modifier
4 oz of polyol esters POE (

Mobil EAL Arctic 68 (ISO VG 68) Synthetic Refrigeration Oil [1G]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088Q4C8CL) - should keep piston rings carbon-free

The goal was to keep the oil looking 'normal' and not get questioned during my warranty required oil changes. If you are ok with your oil looking somewhat weird, there are two excellent options to use instead of graphite:
Molybdenum disulfide MoS2 (

$10 Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment | 300 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2009

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2009-Anti-Friction-Treatment/dp/B003U4O414)
Hexagonal boron nitride hBN aka 'white graphite' (

$29 LIQUI MOLY Oil Additive Cera Tec 20002 Ceramic Wear & Tear Protection for Petrol & Diesel Engines Smoother Engine Performance, Less Friction & Lower Fuel Consumption 300 ml

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-20002-Friction-Modifier/dp/B001CZODH8)

Anything that goes into the engine oil should have 1 micron or smaller particle size, because the OEM oil filter will start to remove particles of 20 micron or larger from the oil. All of the above additives will not be caught by the oil filter.

You have more choices when it comes to the differentials and the transfer case since no filter. This is what goes in during my next fluid change:
PTFE powder 1.6 micron (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084VNXNMK) - 1 gram/quart - low pressure friction modifier
Graphite powder 5 micron (

$14 MDXSB Ultra Fine Graphite Dry Lubricant 50 Grams

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098RA524) - 1 gram/quart - low-mid pressure friction modifier
Tungsten disulfide WS2 powder 0.6 micron (

$25 MICROLUBROL 2 oz Tungsten DISULFIDE Sulfide WS2 Powder Ultra FINE ½ Micron 0.5 µ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WP4306U) - 1 gram/quart - mid-high pressure friction modifier

 

Re: intercooler staying on.

I replicated the issue.

if you push the start button to the "on" but not holding the brake...so as to not actually start the engine, but be able to put it in neutral to roll off ramp after you change the oil.

and then turn the truck off

the intercooler MAY stay on until you actually cycle thru those steps again.


just passing on damn interesting stuff.

 

Has a max HP attainable in stage 1 been established? (Tune, headers, larger intake, PLUS stage 1).

 

not yet - we are waiting for @Saltyhero13 to get off his wallet.


I reckon you would need larger injectors as well.

all in - I would image 480whp-ish on the 7psi stage 1 pushes. I did 453whp all stock on stage 1.

Intake was not an issue with stage 1 - I don't think headers make a sig diff on forced induction motors.

or thereabouts.

 

By stage 1 do you just mean the largest 85mm pulley? If you added headers, a larger intake and a tune you would have to definitely have larger injectors. DAP said I needed the 650 injectors even just to get a tune with the 85mm. I think we are getting hung up on the “stages” cause that’s what Harrop uses to differentiate running the 85mm pulley with no tune vs the smaller pulleys with larger injectors and a custom tune.

 

Agreed. I assumed the 85mm pulley.

thanks for keeping us honest.

 

Yes, buying the stage 1 pkg from harrop and then adding all the other goodies like injectors, headers, etc...

I guess my real question is has the the max hp been established from the 85mm pully.

 

there's that word "safely".

I struggle with it constantly.

 

I'll use the word safely in a sentence:

My dragy came in early and I am going to safely attempt a 0-60 pull in the morning.

 

Lol, I meant within reason (no methanol or insane boost)

 

If I had to guess I’d say the 85mm with injectors, headers, intake and tune will net you similar gains to just the 80mm pulley with injectors and a tune, without the headers and intake. Bang for the buck I think the pulley is hard to beat. Now the 80 with all of those extra goods will be good for a nice chunk more of power.

 

the 85mm pulley is a trap.

it leads to the 80mm.....and so on.

however - I'll stand by my 480whp guesstimate of full tilt 85mm pulley.

 

well said.

stage 2 costs ~$800 + tune.

 

I'll add - and it's probably much easier to tune with just the pulley & injectors.

all those other variables add time to the tune $.

 

I'm going straight to Stage 4 to stay ahead (and confuse everyone).

 

bootage of the scootage

yeeting of the skeet.

run 1


run 2


run 1 had a little driver hesitation.
run #2 was all in

both 4hi - no loss of traction - full tank of scoot fuel.

I don't know what else I could do. that second run is damn close to the 0-60 calc's based on weight & HP.

I'll say again - I don't know how a TRX does not tear itself apart doing low 4's.



Dragy is simply an entry drug to a 75mm pulley.

 

Looks like a good way to start the week! Did you do any brake boosting at the launches or just stomp on it from takeoff?

 

1st run > stomp
2nd run had a tad of brake boosting - to take the shock away from the trans.

 

I'm sure some of you hyper sum'bitches could get another 10'th of 2 out of it. @snivilous

 

Now with Dragy and your baseline you can start some tribological additives. It’s easier to get the fridge sliding when the floor is wet