Secondary air check valves on 2010 Tundra V6 4.0L

Hi,

I've been trying to find info on how to replace the valves by myself - I'm not very handy, but, well, Toyota service wants to skin me off to do the job so I kind of have no choice... Even the bypass kit from Hewitt seems pretty expensive (the sec generation).
Apparently, the part number is 2571031012 and apparently these are the valves on my car (see attached images). Anyone can confirm please?

I looked a lot on youtube, I couldnt really see my model there but the closest ones were showing the valves behind the manifold, which, thanks God, doesnt seem to be the case for me, if I'm right with my pictures. Apparently I could even remove/replace one by one the valves with the Torx screws (that is, not the whole piece), which might be much easier to access.

Thanks a lot,

 

Welcome Don,

I have same year and motor as yours. I do not know the answers to your questions but if I we’re you I would go to tacomaworld.com and ask the same questions as the motor is more commonly used in tacomas.

 

Yes, those are the valves. $300 from Orielly’s. Easy.

Edit: both valves come as one piece.

 

Follow up, for anyone who might want to do the same

I did replace the valves myself. I wouldnt say it's complicated, but it wasnt straight forward either, my being fairly beginner on this stuff.

1. I checked the air pumps from the bottom, taking off some screws until I was able to move the whole assembly of pumps into a more comfortable position. On each pump, without taking off the assembly, I took off its rubber part and I found no water in them (as I saw many complaining that have found). There was some dirt in one of them, especially, but not bad at all.
2. At the same time, I replaced the intake plastic trumpets with the new model. Pretty expensive for a piece of plastic and really what they did is just add a cap on the old intake model. I was trying to do the same before buying, add a pill's bottle or something but I couldnt find one to be happy with the fitting.
3. After that I moved to work from the top, on the valves. I took off air filter and a couple wires. Some people replace valve by valve on the old assembly. I thought about it, I removed the back valve but the inside of the assembly was pretty dirty and I couldnt see how to clean it properly if mounted there. I wanted to give it a try to replace it all and I didnt see one of the outgoing pipes until all the rest of the screws were off - disconnecting that last pipe was more difficult. Working only from above, I dont think you can replace the assembly without removing the back valve from it first (and add it back once the assembly is in place). Anyway, I got all in place but I did screw it up - the pump assembly is made of some kind of aluminium and, even if I didnt force it much, imho, the threads for one hole of the valve screws just ripped off, I guess, so the screw started to turn loose. I left it like that, there's 3 more screws there, I'll see what happens. Eventually later I may try to fix that somehow (try a screw with nut? self-tapping screw? or even replace the whole assembly again), if needed. Just be very careful with those screws.

FYI, I bought the Toyota OEM parts from this site. The dealers here in town were asking much more.
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/...Injection-Pump-Check/10789535/2571031012.html

I'll attach one more image.

Good luck!

 

Good job. A little less expensive on the smaller engine. This is a real pain on the 5.7.

 

I paid for oem replacement when mine failed. Wish I went bypass and did it on my own. Would have saved me $400.

 

The bypass is very expensive now, I'd say. If just the valves are messed up, I'd think you'd be better off replacing them yourself (if relatively easy access, like in my case).