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Project Double Gnar: Adding Stereo & Camera

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by ThatYeti, Oct 18, 2021.

  1. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:23 AM
    #31
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Yellow is BATT. :D
    Red is ACC/IGN.
    (so vice-versa here)

    I swear I had to ground something for my HU to a steel part of the dash. Maybe it was the brake lockout bypass switch.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2021
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  2. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:26 AM
    #32
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Yes, I've the same package for my metra kit and attached is the diagram for the radio

    PXL_20211106_152514979.jpg
     
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  3. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:26 AM
    #33
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Really quick, before we continue though.

    Are you comfortable taking out the 5 screws in the dash, using the instructions in the MasterSheet I attached, to pop the bezel out and check for the amp in the dash as it shows? Of course, I'd look under the rear seat ike
     
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  4. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:31 AM
    #34
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ya haha I'm all good with taking out bolts and screws. I've replaced speakers, etc before but that was a lot more straight forward with adapters or just two wires to connect. I hadn't pulled the radio or dash yet cause Crutchfield seemed pretty adamant the amp was under the radio on mine and I'm still trying to get enough miles under it to pass emissions which I've been trying to get done since April so I'm holding off on disconnecting the battery til maybe next week when I can get it tested again cause my Bluetooth reader and the Torque app won't show me the emissions monitors for some reason despite showing me trouble codes and letting me wipe them.
     
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  5. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:36 AM
    #35
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    You def don't need to remove batt cable just to pull the center bezel. Leave everything attached. Just pop out the 5 screws, careful not to lose the two in above the vents, pull out, check to see if amp is there. Should be an obvious silver, finned box in the location the MasterSheet is showing. Take pic, please, it'd be nice to have a reference pic for future cases. I'd love to build up some documentation for this stuff to shove in a sticky.

    If there, I'll spend 30mins doing a little legwork later to pull the EWD for the 2000 year 1st Gen and can give you a breakdown.

    One other question for you, though. Do you see anywhere in the Android HU manual where the purpose of the "KEY" and "KEY2" wires is listed? I see they typo'd the name in the manual :D but don't see the purpose listed. Stupid part, it's showing in the harness description, but when you look at their pinout, it's conveniently not there!

    Oh wait - Maybe "steering wheel study" 1 and 2 are == "KEY1" and "KEY2". If so, you won't have steering wheel controls and we can skip those, and if you're not doing camera, we could even potentially skip the reverse signal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2021
  6. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:44 AM
    #36
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Right, I'll go out in a bit when it warms up to do that and they sent a longer pdf manual for it via email that shows key1 & key 2 are indeed for steering wheel controls.

    Maybe not now but I'd definitely like to be able to get the backup camera to work, as it's was the main reason for doing all of this.
     
  7. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:46 AM
    #37
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Wiring section of it, the rest is more of a user guide

    Screenshot_20211106-114511.jpg
     
  8. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:50 AM
    #38
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Ok, yeah, that confirms it. KEY is for control keys on the steering wheel, which you don't have. And I think they're being confusing, and the Reverse wire they show doesn't go directly to the camera, but goes to the reverse signal wire on the truck, but if no camera is being used, unless that's used for a feature lockout, you can disregard.

    @daveeasa can I get your eyes on this too, I just realized earlier I had a mental mis-fire on grounding, I'm still not awake after last night and the coffee isn't getting me there. Sorry 'bout that. I can't remember if our trucks want ILLUM to go to 'dimmer' or 'illum'. I recall some cars have an aha/gotcha on that one.

    The "do these first" are all color-matched between METRA and your Android stereo harness.

    On the blue ANT wire, careful to distinguish between BLUE and BLUE w/white stripe!

    upload_2021-11-6_11-50-22.jpg
     
  9. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:56 AM
    #39
    daveeasa

    daveeasa FBC Harness Solutions

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    I’m extra dumb on weekends because kids. Both puked in the car yesterday, still cleaning that stuff. Car seat disassemble and reassemble is a great waste of time

    I believe illumination is positive and dimmer is negative. Just standard PWM dimming of parking lights. Orange w white or black often denotes dimmer vs solid orange for illumination. Can just ground the negative side too if not pinned. I think one may be on the 6 which has the green and purple speaker connections but without looking and two boys fighting hard for my brain to be coherent.

    I always get red and yellow confused. Hah.
     
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  10. Nov 6, 2021 at 8:59 AM
    #40
    daveeasa

    daveeasa FBC Harness Solutions

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    I think on many of our simple vehicles with no factory power antenna it’s safe to combine remote out and power antenna. But that’s one of those “worry about it at the end” things.

    power, ignition, ground, speakers and the plug in fm antenna and test. That’s the basics. Then see what’s left for camera and stuff. Remote out if needed for factory or aftermarket amp.

    a properly sized cardboard box to rest the unit on while working can help.
     
  11. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:09 AM
    #41
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    The guy who owned the shop I worked for BITD told me, "yellow is for lightning bolts, a lightning bolt is never not-charged". So far, that's held true for anything made from the 1980s forward. And I feel you on the kids. No puke here. But I bout strangled the youngest (8) about an hour ago trying to get him out the door for soccer practice.

    I think METRA is looping them to each other with a little 18-22awg jumper OP showed in the harness pic.

    The one advice we may want to give OP is to trim any unused wires just shy of where the factory spliced them (as shown - but on both harnesses) to make sure the little sheath doesn't slip off the end and let something ground/arc out later if that sheath falls off.

    upload_2021-11-6_12-8-40.jpg
     
  12. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:13 AM
    #42
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    actually ... (OP you can ignore this)

    Looks like METRA is just looping ACC to P. ANT using that little blue jumper wire. I suppose that's one way to make it universally work.

    upload_2021-11-6_12-13-2.jpg
     
  13. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:20 AM
    #43
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ok just finished playing "matchy matchy" pairing up all the colors that I had matches for and those that are unpaired are split between what I'm going to call left and right with left being the headunit side and right being the truck/adapter side:

    Left:
    Key 1 (orange) & Key 2 (brown) which I think we figured out we can skip
    Back (pink) not sure
    Ill (illumination) (also orange) which I think we can skip too

    Right:
    Dimmer (orange w/white stripe) not sure it's needed

    PXL_20211106_161948361.jpg
     
  14. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:27 AM
    #44
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Actually, there are two oranges on the Android side, one you can see in the pic buried in the middle of everything.

    On the Android harness, find the orange wire tagged "ILLUM" (not DIM) and crimp that to the orange on the METRA side.

    The "BACK" wire is more "Engrish", BACK means REVERSE, just like KEY means STEERING CONTROLS, apparently?

    At the end you should have:
    - NO spare wires on the METRA side.
    - 3 spare wires on Android side: KEY1, KEY2, BACK
    - Trim those spare Android wires as shown in my image above
     
  15. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:29 AM
    #45
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Oh, and one other point: If you've got a factory amp and you install your stereo using this harness, you'll get no sound :D

    The amp bypass harness is going to have its own purple/green/white/grey speaker wires you'll be splicing into.

    However, if you DO NOT have a factory amp, you're ready to go and this harness will work once you make the changes I just posted!!
     
  16. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:31 AM
    #46
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Right mentioned there were two oranges above, but ok I'd figured "ill" on the headunit side and "dimmer" from the metra side belonged together but wasn't 100% sure. Will do that after I pull the dash panel and send a pic of the amp.
     
  17. Nov 6, 2021 at 9:45 AM
    #47
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Dash panel pulled and factory amp pics attached

    Also already matched up the purple and green wires into a separate plug, that was where I started this morning.

    PXL_20211106_163724035.jpg
    PXL_20211106_163727664.jpg
     
  18. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:03 AM
    #48
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Yep, you've got factory amp.

    First, I'll explain things.

    Looking at the bottom of the amp, you should see two harnesses there, I've split them up in this pic .... If memory serves, one delivers power/ground into the amp. The other sends out a signal to the speakers. You should find the black bundle at the top of the amp goes up to the factory head unit. Basic flow is this:

    Head unit may have multiple harnesses on back, and one bundle (the black bundle of wires) likely carries the left/right /front/rear sound put into the top of the factory amp. The amp amplifies the signal, then pushes it out to the door speakers through the bottom harness.

    The METRA bypass harness is simple:
    - Your Android head unit will output its speaker signal over the purple/green/white/grey wires
    - The METRA harness will crimp onto Android purple/green/white/grey wires on one end, then have an adapter to fit the speaker output harness on the bottom of the amp

    When the METRA adapter arrives, you'll be:
    - Clipping all 8 purple/green/white grey wires at the butt splice
    - Tape off the METRA colored wires
    - Crimp the Android colored wires to the corresponding wire on the METRA bypass harness
    - Disconnect the speaker output under the bottom of the factory amp and plug into the METRA bypass Harness
    - Plug the other METRA harness into the factory stereo harness
    - Plug the Andoird head unit harness into the Android unit
    - TEST all is working, then button it up again.

    upload_2021-11-6_13-9-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2022
  19. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:08 AM
    #49
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    But the harness I bought is all Crutchfield insisted I'd need. See pic of additional adapter that I already wired the purples and greens to attached. Is that not what I need?

    PXL_20211106_170654266.jpg
     
  20. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:11 AM
    #50
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    If you don't have rear door speakers, then yes. You have everything you need, and the purple/green connector will go to the right-hand side bottom amp harness in my edited pic above.

    The white/grey wire pairs on the METRA harness and your Android HU would be for the rear door speakers. Purple/green is always front speakers. White/grey are always rear speakers.
     
  21. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:12 AM
    #51
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ok well I do indeed have rear speakers but they don't have tweeters so would that make sense why they don't need a bipass, as they wouldn't have been connected to the amp in the first place maybe?
     
  22. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:15 AM
    #52
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Full disclosure: I don't have an early model 2000-2002. My truck was wired differently than yours. My factory amp fed all 6 speakers.

    Let me go dig thru the wiring diagram for the 2000 access cab. Maybe they're only using the amp to drive the front door speakers, but the rear door speakers were powered by the head unit. That seems weird, but ... it's possible.

    The two front door speakers use a shared wire pair. Two wires should go from the amp to the door. Inside the door, that connection forks out to one tweeter and one woofer.

    I'll post back in a few. Digging up the 2000 EWD now.
     
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  23. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:16 AM
    #53
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Appreciate you more than you could know
     
  24. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:34 AM
    #54
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Just here to help, I'm sure I may come off as a condescending asshole sometimes but swear it's not personal and I don't mean it.

    I also won't lie, this was one of my least favorite parts of the job, digging through wiring diagrams, and we never seemed to have the correct harness on-hand to do what was needed on ore bizarre shit like this, you just can't be a small shop and have that much inventory.

    Anyway, having trouble decoding the factory electrical diagram, so I'm going to give you a long version and a short version. I clearly see the electrical diagram showing there are two separate harnesses with different wires in the rear of the factory head unit, S6 and S7:

    upload_2021-11-6_13-27-37.jpg


    If I look at the uncolored side of the diagram I see those connectors listed separately, one feeding the rear spk and one feeding the front. I color-coded it here. Notice the beige box - Those 1-2 letter designations are the wire coloring where V = violet, LG = light green, R = red, B=Blue and so-on (L is light blue, I know, weird).

    upload_2021-11-6_13-33-55.jpg


    I also found the wiring portion, which confirms the wire color - more info in next post....

    upload_2021-11-6_13-35-5.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2021
  25. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:46 AM
    #55
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    That said:

    If it were me, here are the sanity checks I'd make:

    1) Look to see what color wires are coming out of the bottom of the amp, for both the LEFT and RIGHT harnesses there.
    2) Pop the factory head unit out (it's just 4 screws) and take pics of the two harnesses so we can see the
    3) See if you can find any indication of how many wires (and what color) are inside that black bundle going your OEM radio into the top of the amp.


    Why I'm asking each:

    Asking #1 so we can compare it to the electrical wiring diagram (gonna use "EWD" from now on for that) for the # and color, it should tell us if those are (a) all speaker outputs, or (b) power inputs on one, and speaker outputs on the other.

    Asking #3 so we can understand whether that thick black bundle is (a) straight-up audio leads going to the amp, (b) if it's a mix of audio and power leads going to the amp, and (c) if it is just audio leads, we can determine how many audio inputs are going to the amp, just the front 4, or the front and rear 8 wires.

    Asking #2 so we can compare to EWD and your METRA harness to understand what outputs the METRA would feed under its current crimped configuration.
     
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  26. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:51 AM
    #56
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Tipping my cap from one condescending asshole to another.

    I'll go pop it out now to grab some pics but stupid question, do I need to disconnect the battery before hand?
     
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  27. Nov 6, 2021 at 11:07 AM
    #57
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    The general rule of thumb is, if you don't intend to disconnect a harness with LIVE power/ground on it, and there's no risk of a wire getting severed, you don't need to disco the battery cable.

    Any time you'll be unplugging/plugging in something with LIVE power, you always want to pull the battery. Even small sparks can (but usually don't) fry stuff.

    Short answer: If you're not unplugging things and aren't a klutz, no. Only wire that should have power is one BATT+ on the radio, maybe one to the amp. Should be able to see wire colors w/o a disconnect.
     
  28. Nov 6, 2021 at 11:19 AM
    #58
    ThatYeti

    ThatYeti [OP] New Member

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    Ok so the Factory head unit only had one adapter plugged in and I don't see wiring for a second anywhere....which is odd

    Pics of the radio harness, wiring and the back of the radio attached and also the amp wiring (best I could get, tried to take one from the back but they all came out awful)

    PXL_20211106_180120341.jpg
    PXL_20211106_180124602.jpg
    PXL_20211106_180535431.jpg
    PXL_20211106_181052039.jpg
     
  29. Nov 6, 2021 at 11:52 AM
    #59
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Based on the wiring diagram, here's what I can decipher.

    I see the power and ground feeding the amp. I see the colors of wires feeding in. (More after the pic)

    upload_2021-11-6_14-48-59.jpg


    So the only logical thing is this:

    Remove the amp, which will take out the amp and the black-tubed harness that was plugged into the OEM radio.

    Disco neg BATT cable
    Plug both white ends of the METRA harness into the corresponding AMP bottom plugs.
    Plug black end of METRA harness into back of your shiny new radio
    Attach neg BATT cable and test for function of all speakers, fading front rear
    If OK, pat yourself on the back and enjoy your new radio.
     
  30. Nov 6, 2021 at 11:55 AM
    #60
    shifty`

    shifty` The Second Shortcoming of Christ

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    Oh, and if that green wire on the left I have the ????? on has a red stripe, it maybe the reverse wire?

    The middle ???? wire that looks brownish-red, common ground colors I've seen in the EWD best for my '06 are white w/blk stripe, grey, and sometimes brown, so dunno what it is.

    The left whitish-looking wire with a stripe color I can't decipher, no clue. White with green stripe? Still dunno what it is. Not seeing in the EWD.

    If The two white METRA ends *DO* fit the harnesses plugged into the bottom of the amp, just remove the amp completely and this will make a hell of a lot more sense if it doesn't already. :D
     
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