What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Hopefully like new. I’ll update once I get ‘em back

 

, just looked up specs on that wheel, it’s a 4.5 inch backspace w +15 offset, add in the wheel spacers and your down close to 3.25 backspace. I’ve got roughly same the setup with 285’s. Where’s it rubbing at?

 

I think it’s the inside of the mud guard in the wheel well. I hear it when I am in reverse and turning the wheel all the way.

 

Red seatbelts are only acceptable in sports cars IMO. I think it would look really goofy.

 

Not yet, I'm still waiting to schedule another run with a different dyno. I still wanna go back to the original tuner and have another go with current mods and then a 2nd run with tuned ECU. This ship near me I called yesterday said that runs with Automatic trucks aren't too accurate because of the transmission not holding gear long enough. Not sure how accurate that is.

 

Have you had it aligned since you installed the lift? The right alignment shop should be able to get you enough positive caster outta your adjustable UCA’s to clear 265/70/17’s, even with 1.25” spacers. If I’m not mistaken, that’s a stock size tire for our trucks. You can try without the spacers but then might rub on the frame. OR…….. there is that one other way……

 

And it’s pretty easy to determine if it is the spacers before talking to the shop.

 

It could also be the front fender flare piece. I know mine rubbed a little on the inside when backing up and with the wheel turned slightly. I thought it was the mudguard at first, but then one time I saw the scratches on the inside of the fender flare.

 

I made a few purchases....here's one of them. I'll post up some pictures once they're mounted.

 

I have 265/70/17 same wheels and spacers and no rubbing, also same set up on the old 2001 tundra and no rubbing.

 

I did have it aligned. I plan on giving them a call on Monday and seeing if they can tweak it, and yea I think 265/70R17s were stock. Could just cut the bumper in half I do like that look on our trucks.

Yea for sure.

OK will investigate this, need to see when it actually rubs, it could be the inside fender flare. I think it was rubbing more before, when I had just the level kit and 275/55R20s it was rubbing a fair but, so not sure what's "new".

Started this. I really suck at wrapping lol. Plus I was looking at my paint close, which depressed me.

 

Looks good in image!

 

Ha thanks. I give myself a 7/10. It does look good from 4-5' away. Good enough to do the other two bars for sure. Especially since it isn't permanent.

 

Did a little lighting upgrade today. Just installed new lights a few days ago. Drove with them last night and they were ok. These LED's came in today.

SEALIGHT

$49 H4/9003/HB2 LED Bulbs Hi/Low Beam, 36000LM 900% Super Brighter, 1:1 Halogen Size, 6500K Cool White, 60000Hrs Long Service Life with Cooling Fan, Plug and Play, Pack of 2

H4/9003/HB2 LED Bulbs X1 Series Dual Xenon White 6000K 6000LM.

I'll probably test them tonight. Got $40 invested in the bulbs. Don't really drive much at night so no bad boy lighting needed. They at least seem to look nicer.

EDIT: Took a short drive and they are really nice. They remind me of my wifes 2017 Sahara that had really nice white light. Very satisfied. Also want to add the bulbs came in very nice packaging and had very clear instructions.

 

Did you happen to get the data sheet from the alignment? You wanna check the caster #’s. The beauty of adjustable uppers is being able to increase castor and still be able to align toe and camber properly, IF the shop is experienced AND you request it. Ideally you want 2.5, I believe. You could take off the spacers, but you really shouldn’t have to, especially with adjustable uppers.

Aftermarket uppers, like Camburg or Total Chaos, that are not adjustable, come with the increased caster built into the design. BTW, if you’re unfamiliar, caster pertains to the steering axis, and is increased by moving the lower ball joint forward, and/or upper rearward, which can be helpful to gain clearance at the rear of the tire. Hope this helps.
Wrap job looks good to me. That shit is not as easy as some make it look.

 

Here are some better pictures, which show a bit more of my wrap challenges

And yea...figured out the rub.

 

True. Mine are stock UCA's

 

I really don't want to take off the spacers if I don't have to. Here is the data sheet. And thanks for the info on the caster, I did not know what that parameter actually adjusts.

 

Isn't it 5.25" backspace? The spacers push the wheel out.

Edit:, no I was wrong - spacers give you less backspacing and more offset

 

Who need mudflaps/guards/whatever. Rip that s off, right?

Or no?

I dunno says the guy with 265/70R16

 

See if you can mold them with a heat gun, or do a little trimming. But you could also probably push the wheels forward a bit.

 

Had a spare couple minutes to install switches for my halos and demon eyes. They are carling style knock offs. I had to dremel the switch blanks to open them up and they seem to hold the switches alright. I still need to hard wire my radar detector and if I ever replace the factory stereo I'll probably just replace the whole plate with a switch plate.

I may have to flip the switches upside down. The green lights look pretty bright. We'll see if it's bright enough to bother me.

 

Yea I’ve been ripping everything off the truck in the last couple weeks…nerf bars, bumper, wood grain interior trim, lol. Might as well continue the trend.

 

Has to be the offset from that wheel spacer combo I believe. My 275/70/17 just rub there after I pushed the mud flap forward. So little it stopped on it's own. I'm on 8.5" wheels, but 0 offset. You are on 7.5 wheels -25 with offset after spacers. you are about 1/2" wider outer stance and swinging on a larger radius when turning. But, barely touching it seems (except bumps?) take the flaps back a touch or take them off. Seems to be pretty solvable. Caster looks like mine with TC arms.

 

i don’t think there’s a ton can be shaved off those mud flaps. There’s a ridge on the inside you might could heat up and flatten. Our sequoia rubs on them also. It’s running 275/70/17s w/ 4.75 backspace and 0 offset.

 

the @Cummins3500 Sequoia and my Tundra must have the same wheel specs. Mine only rubbed because I bashed the flap - but tires can de different diameters with same specs from different makers

 

I missed the pictures of the rub @Openbaffle. Those falkens are the same tires my wife’s sequoia has. I’d revisit my alignment before I did anything. I think that’ll definitely buy you some room

which coil overs you running?

 

Hmm... I was hoping to run 285/70's on the Sequoia after I lift it.

 

Hell you can shift it yourself 1 2 3 D, just no power to shift from 4th to 5th. Still would be cool to know. Since I do plan on the same exhaust setup as you and the URD maf tuner, etc. Your base numbers for the power to the wheel sound about right though since it's supposed to be 270hp/330tq at the flywheel

 

Probably need to pull the mudflaps and look for a wheel with 4.5 in backspace. Take my tundra for example, with the methods and 285/75/16s I didn’t scrub. My issues came in when I added wheel spacers and I figured it would. It’s not a stretch to run 285s by no means. Those falkens seem to run big also just for the record