LBJ, shocks and tie rods...

I have a 2003 4x4 Tundra. I have recently serviced my King coilovers, (new oil, gas, seals, bearings) installed new oem lower ball joints, new swaybar end links and installed new Total Chaos steering rack bushings.

Is it normal when going over a speedbump, evenly, both tires at same time, to get a clunk as the shocks droop back down the other side? I thought for the cost and reputation of King...there shouldn't be any clunk going over a speedbump...maybe a little faster than you normally would...

How important are oem tie rods ends? Lower ball joints I understand...but tie rod ends?? Could tie rod ends going bad cause the above clunk? Should you be able to twist tie rods back and forth easily or should it be tough? Truck has 173k miles. I've had it 10 years....since it had 140k miles. No idea on parts replaced before I got it.Thanks for any info...

x-posted in the suspension forum.

 

It's normal if the Kings are adjusted so there is almost no droop. is it a clunk or a hard thud?

Oh, BTW - were they doing it before all that work?

 

I’m chasing a clunk in mine that I get while in reverse with the wheels cut . I’ve got sway bar bushings (frame side), inner tie rod ends, steering rack, or passenger cv axle left as my culprits and I’ll have a complete re-build done.

I’d start with the lower control arm bushings, then move on from there

 

slight clunk...yes, the shocks were doing it....because they had not been serviced in 10+ years. All oil/gas was gone... Guy who serviced them said the clunk was from no oil/gas charge.

 

I'll look into lower control arm bushings...been getting a little noise/pop also at full lock frontwards and backwards...every once in a while.

 

There is no cushion to stop the shocks from topping out.

My bilstiens do the same thing as they are set to the maximum lift.

Control arm bushings should go 300k if not more. At 250k my LCA bushings looked new.

It could also be a loose sway bar link, mine had a clunk / funny pop sound and that’s what it was.

I would only run OEM TRE’s and BJ’s. Everything else is crap, and OEM isn’t very expensive. Only thing I didn’t go OEM was the sway bar links and that’s because they are easy to replace, and Toyota wants like $300 a side.

 

Thanks guys...@Diablo169 So all aftermarket coilovers...even the best will clunk as the tire drops suddenly and the shock extends?

 

I have 16” Fox coilovers on my Buggy, and they clunk, same with with Fox’s on my RZR, limit straps will eliminate the clunk, but really aren’t needed.

The more preload / lift on the shocks the more severe the cluck will be. If it is the shocks, it’s a pretty solid clunk, almost like the tires are coming off the ground. Might be worth it to tighten the lower sway bar link bolts. Proper torque setting is yes.

 

Regarding the tie rod ends...should they turn by hand easy of take a little effort? Mine aren't loose, but twist fairly easy back and forth.

 

Mine are tight, but they only have 40k on them lol. I replaced them around 245k and they were incredibly loose and original. You should feel a little play in them if they are bad. My inners had about 1/8” play back and forth.

Sadly, most the Tundra stuff is small Tacoma sized hand me downs. If you Offroad, I’d expect to have to change them every 100k.

 

+1
I looked in the service manual and did not see a test for tie rod ends. However, the lower ball joints are bigger, and the play test is that they don't unseat more than .5mm, .020 inches, or more than basically your fingernail. That's with mechanical advantage. If you can easily spin those with your fingers, or detect any play, I would say replace. I looked for you and me, because I'll have mine off and will be inspecting them as well.

 

Did you lift the front at all? If yes, then that clunk is 99.9% due to the coil spring hitting the upper control arm. To resolve it, you'll need to use aftermarket upper control arms that raise the arm up to avoid hitting the springs. In my case, I modified the upper control arms to raise it up.

 

The upper control arm is clear from the spring with the fabrication.

 

I have Total Chaos UCA.s.....thanks though.

 

You may want to check all bushings from steering rack all the way out to the shock. Tighten all bolts according to Toyota specs. If the inner and outer tie rods are old, then they can make clunks. Test them out by removing the nuts that hold them to the knuckle, and wiggle them. If you can wiggle them easily, then they're bad. There must be strong tension.

 

Do your TC UCAs contact the shock tower?

 

nope...

 

Check. I mean checked off. One of mine did at install, why I asked.

 

I’m assuming you trimmed to fit for a remedy? I checked mine on the tundra and they look super close and I wasn’t at full droop. I’ll put a jack under it and verify this weekend

 

One side passed but touched. Once run each direction with the angle grinder to take down the edge. Quick spray paint to the lip.

 

It was top of the tower, so right around straight out with the arm.

 

I too didn’t like how my kings took a speed bump. They would “slam” down the backside of a speed bump. I wouldn’t get a clunk per say, but they were pretty damn harsh as they “slammed” down. With that, I am having king pull some rebound since they are there for a rebuild anyway. Seems like I don’t drive my Tundra hard enough to take advantage of the 50/50 street/off-road valving that they come with. I’m getting them valved to a little more street friendly. I’m also doing the LBJs, extended sway bar end links, outer tie rod ends, and am now kicking around upper arms. Was initially set on the uppers, but don’t know how much I’ll benefit from them. Anyway, I’ll report back if pulling rebound helps the harshness at all.

 

I'd like to know the numbers on that KING re valve and how you like it. I have a guy here in San Diego who services them for me that used to work for Off Road Warehouse.

 

10-4. I probably won’t have my Tundra on the road again for another couple/few weeks. Will let you know.