What should I list for? 2000 Tundra 122k miles

Selling my grandparents Tundra. Been in the family since bought new. I am not familiar with 1st gens so any help is appreciated. Runs great. Timing belt and water pump replaced at 101k miles back in 2015. How bad is this rust for a 1st gen? Spent its entire life in the Denver metro area.

 

I'd probably walk away due to concerns about the frame around the front of the driver's side leaf pack hanger, something hinky looking about the frame right there.

But trucks in this general shape, featured as this one is, in this condition and mileage, are selling in the $7k-12k range private-sale in my market, depending. We have some really nice trucks in my area in similar mechanical shape for 10 and under. Lack of 4WD would be (I think) the real killer for your market putting you closer to that 7k number, but looks like you may not have that issue.

 

Looks like he has a T-case

 

4wd drive shaft. 2wd has no slip yoke like the 4wd pictured here.

 

My bad, you're right. For some reason I thought I read 2WD above. I was so focused on the frame part, I missed the transfer case.

I'll go back and edit that part, still think the range is about right though, with 4WD I'd put it closer to the 5-digit range though.

 

No biggie

 

That honestly looks like surface rust on the frame but it's always hard to tell until you see it in person. That 4th picture is a bit concerning but I suspect that frame has some life left.

Right now I wouldn't be surprised if you could sell it for $9-10k. One owner is a big selling point.

 

Take a picture of the spare tire crossmember where it mounts to the main frame rail in all 4 locations. Truck may qualify for frame recall.
Only thing I'm not sure of is that Colorado isn't listed as one of the severe cold climate states.
Worth looking into.

 

all i see is surface rust and paint flaking off near the hanger.

 

Ask 12 to start. it'll sell.

 

She's mint for her age / climate. Very nice truck!

 

Surface rust only. Looks good.

 

I see you guys saying surface rust, but I'm not sure it's the case. It's possible that's just paint or sealer cracking on the vertical crack in this pic, but if you see how chunky the framerail gets to the left of it, versus to the right, it suggests there's something else more serious going on here. (I agree with starting at the high end of 12k and reducing $500/wk it's listed though)

This may look great to rust belt folks, but down in here in GA, that would send me packing or tossing out a 6-8k offer.

 

I'm thinking that is surface rust in that shackle area. A quick tappy-tap with a hammer will tell all. But then again, maybe don't since you're selling her.
Overall the under carriage looks clean for 20 years. You do get snow there after all.

List it at 11k and see what happens. You can always go down.

 

Looks like the frame overlap section by the spring mount separating the two layers from rust. Mine is doing the same thing and that's actually about all the frame rust I have. If someone is handy and watches it I'd say no biggie if the rest of the truck is solid. I planned to fix mine next summer, but it requires working in tight spaces or removing the bed and it also requires welding and cutting unless someone could get a mint cross member to replace the rusty one. My plan was to blast, seal, repair whatever, and then box that section.

 

Unfortunately this is a common misconception. The frame is actually one piece from the front cab mount back. There’s an 18” stiffener that is riveted on the inside of the frame channel that helps strengthen this area where the spring shackles are attached. That stiffener rusts out and then weakens the frame. The rusty stiffener will cause the actual frame to start to corrode if left unchecked. Mine was very rusty, so I fabricated new stiffeners from 1/4” steel and made them longer to spread out the load.
Pictures are in my repair thread..