Suspension Suggestions

I am getting ready to have the following work done to my 2006 Tundra DC SR5 4x4:

• Replace the shocks with Bilstein 5100s. Height adjustable in the front so we can level the truck out.
• Replace factory wheels with Fuel Ammo D701 17x9 wheels with 275x70x17 Toyo Open Country AT3 tires

Since I'm doing all of this, I want to make sure that I replace everything that I should. All of my suspension is currently original, but I haven't noticed any problems at all. However, I have heard about ball joints failing and causing a wheel to come off. Naturally I don't want that to happen, so as long as I am spending money now, I figure I should replace whatever I need to now. I am not a mechanic at all, so I guess I am looking for some advice from those with experience.

Thanks for any assistance!

 

Spindle looks thrashed, at least get it looked at. If that needs replacement, upper and lower ball joints are a given.

 

Keith, I don't want to discourage you from purchasing the 5100's because they are a really good shock at their price-point but bear in mind that they are specifically engineered for heavier unsprung weight, so if you install them w/o it they may feel harsh to you. I've seen this happen many times over the years with guys left scratching their heads wondering where they went wrong. Do you know which position you're going to set the clip in?

 

Yeah that rust on that spindle near upper ball joint looks a little rough. May want to source new or used if both look like that. Rest of your frame in good shape? Been gone through with a fine tooth comb to look for rust?

 

Your 06 has the "better" LBJs, but I'd be suspect of them. That spindle too. I'd check your control arm bushings while in there. Those sway bar end links look worn too.

How many miles you got and what part of the country?

 

Its fine, spray a coat of black over it all and good as new.

Seriously though, some of that crust looks like its just dirt stuck to leaked grease from the upper joint. I would get a flapper and hit that spindle, see if it's just surface rust that you can knock off and paint it. If its worse than that I'd get new ones. The rust is on the most critical part of the spindle.

Like other have said, really check out your joints and bushings for wear before you swap for 5100s. Anything that is worn will wear out faster once you lift the truck and change the operating angles.

 

I have around 158,000 miles. I am the original owner and I live in central North Carolina.

 

Is there a better option for leveling the truck and letting me put on some 17" wheels and larger tires. I might be old enough to be a grandpa, but I don't want my truck to show it! I also have no interest in needing a ladder to get into it either!

 

I can't say that I have thoroughly gone under the truck looking for rust, but I have been under the truck a couple of times and it doesn't have anything but the typical minor surface rust. There isn't any rust on the body as far as what I can find. Hopefully I'm lucky and mine hasn't rusted as badly as many others.

 

I'm having someone else do the work, but based on my searching on the internet, I think that the clip would be on the highest groove (#4) in order to level the truck. I guess if that it too high, maybe groove 3. I really am just looking for a leveled truck and not a big lifted truck.

I'll take an advice that you're willing to give because I had thought about Bilstein 6100s, but the shop that I plan to use said that would be overkill given the fact that my truck is on pavement 95% of the time. The other 5% are dirt roads and pretty good hunting paths. I definitely don't do any serious off-roading with it.

 

I believe that most of what looked like rust was simply dirt stuck to leaked grease. I didn't take the the wheel and tire off, but I did include two images of where I brushed off the "gunk".

 

Looks a lot better!

 

Understood. I'm not sure of the unsprung weight of the components you're installing (wheels & tires) vs what you currently have on the truck but if you could find that info out you would probably be doing yourself a favor before installing the 5100's on the 4th setting. With the 5100's set on the 4th setting it is going to be very firm and may also require you to purchase aftermarket upper control arms to get the front wheels aligned properly.. Most people opt for the 3rd as a compromise. I may be incorrect, but just based on your description of your intended use of the truck you may be unhappy with the results as far as ride quality and handling on the 4th setting.

I have no experience with the 6100's so maybe someone else will chime in but my impression of them is that they would be the more suitable choice.

 

How much lift are you looking for?

I just did some 4600's, extended top hat studs and 1/2" strut spacer on drivers side (approx. +1") and 1/4" on pass side (approx. +1/2") to level my truck out a bit and remove the lean.

It kept the OEM ride quality. Actually improved because my front shocks were worn out.

 

Yes, I misspoke and would opt for the 4600's for his needs and expectations, not for the 6100 series (or the 5100 series, for that matter, unless the unsprung weight is applied). He specifically says 95% of his time in the truck will be on pavement.

@Yakapex , as a suggestion contact Bilstein and tell them exactly what you're needs and expectations are and I'm certain they would like nothing more than to see you be a satisfied customer with their product(s).

 

Everyone says running upper strut spacers just makes the truck ride like garbage. Although I've never really had experience with it. My 4600s are original and I was planning to go with 5100s in the future to level my truck but I always hear conflicting information about different things, also that the 5100s with the adjustable lower perch are basically doing the same as a spacer lift. I don't drive my truck a whole awful lot and if a truck feels rougher that's just because it's a truck to me anyway.

I'm kind of in the same boat here as I just want to level out my truck and not add anything else really. Just don't want to damage any other components or have to get new UCA's if I can help it.

 

@NickB_01TRD

Based on my experiences with 5100's on a few builds (my current 2WD Tundra being one of them) I firmly believe the reason for the conflicting info on them from consumers can be divided up into 2 categories: Those who had or added to the unsprung weight of the vehicle they're applying them to and those who did not. Bilstein specifically states they are engineered for applications with more unsprung weight. Absent that, consumers are typically very disappointed in them when they hit anything bigger and harder than a cigarette butt. Without the additional unsprung weight all the vibes and shock from road conditions are transferred straight to the body and chassis because the shock and suspension aren't cycling properly. Plus, satisfaction with them, or any other shock for that matter, assumes the rest of the suspension is up to snuff and not worn-out also as this will exacerbate the poor ride and handling qualities exponentially, just as it would with any shock or strut. Every component works as a system.

In short, everybody's needs and expectations are different and I believe it's really important to determine those things first before a decision is made. An informed decision is the best one.

 

Yeah I'm gonna take a deep dive into all my options in the future. The level is on my list but probably not for a little while.

I'm a pretty picky person with most things but the way my truck suspension rides doesn't really get to me too much. Maybe I'm not old enough yet lol. I don't drive my truck usually unless I need to haul something, maybe once a week or so and it's never anything crazy so I'm not worried about losing my rake or anything like that.

Interested to hear what works good for OP. Might help me make my decision too.

 

Yea no your trucks frame and suspension look to be In Good shape. 5100s will ride firmer if you use the stock springs to lift. Going with OME 885 springs and energy suspension isolators will net lift at e lowest setting and drive pretty damn close to stock. But be taller (2” on my reg cab likely less expensive n a DC)


I have the 5100s and other than the cap, I have no extra unsparing weight, and I’d argue that combination while firmer, is an improvement from stock when it had stock side tires it drove good. Got a wee bit rougher with the heavier e range 32s. Then 33s.

 

If you're lifting 2" or more, most definitely it can effect ride quality. Minimal to no difference below that if your suspension is in otherwise good condition.

New 4600's would make a big difference by themselves if yours are worn out.

↑ this.

Agreed. Looks ok to me too.

5100's may also ride firmer as you bring the clip up, because you're increasing spring pre-load to achieve lift. Doing what he did above with springs is better.


With mild lift (1" or less) spacers on top of the strut or medium lift (1.5-3") springs are a better option imo.


You may even consider the ome springs and new 4600's if you were happy with the ride previously and it falls into the lift range you want.

 

I installed the 5100's on the 4th setting with my factory springs (Truck had 93k when I installed them). I also installed two coachbuilder shims on both sides. Many people install 2 and 1 to get rid of the lean. When my truck is jacked up my upper control arms touch the springs. I decide to go with bora 1.5" wheel spacers with the factory split spoke wheels (I personally like the factory wheels) wrapped in Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70R17. After settling I got right around 3.5" of lift out of the front. I installed 1" blocks in the rear to level the truck. The rear is slightly higher then the front (really hard to tell). The shop I brought it to had no issues aligning the truck. I have not noticed a big difference in ride quality. It is stiffer as expected but does not beat you up by any means. My brother in-law has a 2nd gen same setup but 6112's with stiffer springs and complimented on how good my truck rode compared to his. I drive very comparative to you as far as mostly payment. The only thing I have noticed that is new is my CV axle boots are slinging grease now. I need to address this, for now i have been using a needle and adding grease (Not sure if I should do a diff drop, seems people have mixed feelings about these). With all this being said I drive my truck everyday and have 4,000 miles on this setup. I am very happy with the way my truck looks and rides.

 

3.5" is extreme for the factory front end. Diff drop and new UCA's are the way to go here. Otherwise, you're gonna be slinging grease (even if you try the beefier clamps for the boots, the boots can prematurely wear out) and wearing out upper ball joints.

 

I've been looking into UCA's not sure which ones to go with though. I don't want uniball's. I know that for sure. I would like to be able to grease the ball joint on what ever I get. Not sure if I need the adjustment that SPC offers.