Crackhead resurrection

Holy fork batman! We're on page 10 already!

Just received email from Rockauto.com. all my items have shipped. Latest delivery is September 8th.


Edit: McGeorge order is showing September 7th, but potential delays. Currently the package is in Kernersville, North Carolina.

 

So the new bezel is installed. Swapped the airbag lock cylinder over to the new one.
Here's what works:

1. Hazards
2. Cargo light button
3. Ac button
4. Cabin recirc mode
5. 4WD buttons work the same on this one as they did on the other one.

Here's what doesn't work:

1. The clock.

I can live without that actually as long as this isn't causing some sort of weird issue.
I threw some LEDS I had laying around just to see if the backlights work, and they do.

Any thoughts on the clock? Can I swap the clock guts from one to another if it's causing any issues?

 

Dome fuse is associated but many other lights would have to be out !
There is a clock light bulb associated in that area. Is the intensity turned down or is that bulb indeed working ?

 

I think the LCD is just burnt out which is fine. The important thing is that the bezel hasn't been hacked up by some cracked up yokel. When I plug the bezel in the radio kicks on which tells me everything but the LCD is working. Everything else works. I even swapped around the 194s I just threw in to see if they all worked, and they did. I did notice that 194 behind the vent mode select would flicker if I bumped the right hand wiring harness just right

I can live with that. I'm planning on a Doubledin head unit anyways and I'm sure it'll have a clock on it.

 

Replace the clock with something cool.

speak & spell bits
switch panel
hidden cubby
Digital a/f gauge

 

​

 

I think I’ll have a spare clock. Haven’t tested it yet. The electronics in my existing truck are fine so I wasn’t planning to need the new ones. Though I might tinker with the harness and try to find a mating male for a T so I can grab the cargo switch signal for shell lights but I can research that right now.

 

I hate that can't read that clock during the day if you need to put your lights on because it's raining. The headlights must drag that voltage from 12V down to 6-9V.

 

One very good reason to double-purpose the side signal lamps for combo DRL + Turn duty, most of the time that's more than good enough for rain too.

I'm planning to reserve my high price halogen bulbs for real darkness and let the LED's carry the mail while the sun is up.

 

If purchased on eBay, make sure you let the buyer know they sent you a defect, and you should be reimbursed for part of it if it wasn't disclosed. A lot of people are pulling these from yards and don't bother to test, which is BS. Don't sell at premium price if you haven't tested the merch, and shit is cracked up on it (vent holder things, plastic tab)

That said, you may be able to swap the guts? I can't remember what's under the white plastic cover but I recall another member on one of the HVAC control threads mentioned shipping his control board to some place in TX to fix the HVAC controls, he got the board back and the clock was fixed, but HVAC still wasn't turning on. I assume there was something circuitry-wise that was bad on that chunk of boards.

I'd personally swap it if possible. But that's just me.

Oh, and if you lack the HVAC knobs, gimme a shout. I can send you two old OEM ones I have laying around.

 

Added more to the directory. Not complete yet as of this post, but plugging away nicely.

 

I took a tinkering to my fucked up bezel. It's not all that comically, but I did break things just because I wasn't as careful as I should have been. Might sell that red hazard button on here or pop it into the V6

Here's a screenshot of the listing on eBay.


"Used" is pretty vague. Id say I got lucky that the rest of it worked also. Not sure if they could buck if I contacted them about the clock being out.

 

Okay, first off. I hope all y'all enjoy your weekend, and your Labor Day.

So after discussing with @NickB_01TRD things to have done during the frame swap, and then remembering that @empty_lord had some reccomendations as well... I'm making a list of everything I need to have bought, and ready to go when Toyota calls me, and says "Hey, come get your frame!"

1. Engine mounts? @empty_lord I remember reading discussion about a guy making solid motor mounts and you being somewhat interested. Do you remember that, and have a link? Any reason to go with solid over OEM?
2. Transmission mounts?
3. Body mounts for sure!
4. Rear shocks!
5. Steering rack bushings maybe? I mean, they'll have to take it off anyway to swap it over...
6. Carrier bearing? Spicer...

If there's anything else that anyone else can think of to add to the list, I'm all ears. I'll tag all the people I know offhand who have tons of knowledge on these types of "weird" Parts.

@BubbaW @Darkness @FrenchToasty @Sirfive @MrDirtjumper @ViktorG @Desert Dog @Lil Steve @daveeasa @FirstGenVol @bmf4069 @shifty` @Jack McCarthy @des2mtn @chrisb @KNABORES @N84434

I can't think of anybody else currently. Thank y'all for your time, knowledge, patience, and guidance.

As you all know, my head was swimming with ideas, but I'm mostly focused now. I should be tackling the TB/WP soon. In the meantime, I'd like to start ordering parts that I know I'm gonna need for the frame swap. If I don't get that ball rolling now, or soon it'll sneak up on me and catch me with my pants down, and scrote handy.

 

Sway bar bushings and end links. Definently do the rack bushings. I did all the rubber brake hoses because they were already going to have to bleed the brakes so why not. I don't think they charged labor for that. I didn't do body mounts although I do think that's a good idea. Seems like a good time to go ahead and do the 5100s in the back to match the front. Carrier bearing probably isn't a bad idea either if it's shot anyway.
If you were wanting to go back with stock style exhaust that would be free labor as well. Only other thing that may make sense would be exhaust manifolds/headers. Yeah they'll charge you but that seems like a hell of a job that I'd want to avoid doing myself while the engines in the truck if at all possible. Might want to call and get some sort of quote about that.

 

I wish I had something of value to add but I don’t. I am following along closely to learn though.

 

Solid offroad makes mounts. A new oem trans mount would be good too

 

Is your sway bar 23mm or 27mm? I have a set of 23mm sway bar bushings I accidentally ordered that won't fit on mine.

 

Just an FYI, I'm gonna post a 10% off plus free shipping Labor Day coupon for a dealership I've been using in AL for my last couple of purchases over in the Lunch thread. Probably in the next 5 mins or so. If you need to order, this is how I got such a good deal on my OEM headlights and other stuff, only I think I got 15% off.

 

I cant recall how many miles on this truck, maybe fuel pump/filter while the frame is off.

 

Have you pulled the wheels yet? Jack it up, pull the skidplate and wheels, and clean everything so you can properly inspect everything. Then inspect it after a week of driving and see if theres any fresh juicy spots.

 

Make sure your LSPV is in decent shape. Check for potential leaks around the lines. Fuel filter was mentioned. New seals for the front axles? Check your power steering reservoir hoses.

you’ve got a pretty good list already.

 

LSPV is replaced with frame. As well as most brake lines. I agree with fuel filter although the fuel lines aren't replaced so they'll charge for that.

 

Where's the exhaust manifold or headers in that list? Also, check if your LCAs are frozen. That will require Toyota to pay for new ones if they have to cut the old ones off. How are the brake lines? They should be replaced as part of the frame deal if they're rusted out.

Ask about a new steering rack if it's leaking (and coupler if it's rusted out). The dealer told me they wouldn't charge for the labor of replacing it, only the part if they had to replace my frame.

 

LCA's are replaced no matter what condition. Brake lines as well.

 

Actually around here they don't automatically replace brake lines. Same with LCAs.

 

Fair enough. Every old frame sitting behind the dealership here has LCA's on it or the reminents of them anyway.

 

I've seen people convert the clock to a voltometer before

 

Well, I've had to replace rusty gas tank on the 2002 Taco & patch the 20003 Tundra gas tank recently & I know PHM had to address some issues on the top of his tank recently too. So I'll say consider your tank & how the top looks. That gasket on the top of the tank if not automatically replaced is an at minimum IMO.

 

What @NUDRAT says. If not the gas tank, make sure they put in new bed bolts so you can easily take off the bed in the "tent of pain" and work on the gas tank at a later date.

 

Hey Noah, you seem to be on the right track with your list. One of the biggest benefits of solid mounts is that they transfer more of the power output/torque since they eliminate the flexing associated w/rubber mounts. They also give it more of a "trucky" feel/vibes since they're solid. I would go solid but if you don't want to feel the vibes associated w/solid stay with OEM rubber. Hard to explain. You'd have to ride in a vehicle with solids to "get it".

Also, I believe Timken makes a carrier bearing for your truck also if you can't find the Spicer at a decent price.

The only other thing I'll add at this time is that if you have the luxury of time on your side and don't have a itch that needs scratched I would focus some effort on every electrical connection you'll have access to while the frame is bare and they're easily accessible. It'll be laborious and tedious and boring but in your neck of the woods may pay dividends if you plan on keeping the truck. Clean up every connection and look at the pins for damage and/or corrosion. Put some electrical grease on them and give them a good water-tight seal. Much easier to do now than after the truck is together.

Also