New purchase maintenance

Just picked this 2006 access cab. 135,000 This is my first tundra, and looking for advice for any preventative maintenance I should do. I plan on changing all of the fluids: oil, trans, coolant, diff. Is there anything I should look at?

 

Timing belt and water pump.

 

If zerks exist on the driveline, can't recommend enough to lube with NLGI 2.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/black-hole-zerk-wtf.93630/

 

Welcome from NY.

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)! Timing belt is the main thing. If you have the maintenance history it would be good to go through it, especially everything after about 90k miles. Some of the things might have already been done.

 

Note: Toyota offers a way to look up service records for any service done at dealerships. Sometimes CarFax will log records from major chains and dealers as well.

See here - https://www.toyota.com/owners/my-vehicle/service-history

 

Live in the rust belt? A lot, otherwise no beyond timing belt along with water pump.

 

A few thoughts.

IMPORTANT STUFF:

Timing belt/ water pump first if the previous owner has no proof of it being done, If he had proof , note the mileage he had it done and burn the 100k mile limit into your brain. Use a aisin tb kit and wp from an authorized reseller like NAPA/Summit etc. not ebay/Amazon. Its not worth the $50-$100 savings to risk the life of the truck.

Don't let anyone use a trans flush machine. Just drain and fill the the trans pan with Toyota fluid for your specific year/model( not from ebay/amazon) Don't drop the pan for old fashioned type filter cleaning either. More cost/headache than its worth.

Get the trans fluid level right. Follow the FSM procedure and the fluid level should be at/near the cold mark at about 120 deg, and at near the hot mark at about 175 deg. Make sure you get the exact numbers from an 05/06 fsm.

Use a quality toyota type pink/red coolant. This will probably happen at timing belt service. So if scheduling the TB/WP you can skip this.

If you have LSD, drain and fill the fluid with a quality synthetic w/LSD additive. LSD plates wear faster as the additive ages, so you want that fresh. If not LSD, put this on the peace of mind list and do it as time allows, but sooner than later.

PEACE OF MIND STUFF:
at 125k I would want to know what the plugs look like so I would do those with a NGK/Denso copper, also not Ebay/Amazon ( important). The cheap ones in the owners manual. Not the $12 Iridium's. Then I would pull and inspect them in 20-25k miles and decide then if I wanted the long life plugs. Personally I use coppers always, for the higher intensity spark, and I like looking at them more regularly. Since I save alot compared to irridiums, I throw on a new pcv valve at every plug change. Its cheap and convenient when doing plugs. Similarly, I check the valve cover bolts at the same time, they have a history of rattling free. I re-torqued mine once and they haven't ever loosened since, but I check them every plug change.

Lube the driveline regularly, it really smooths the ride, and prevents a lot of problems.

15 years and 125k is a long time. I would make sure all the brake fluid is fresh. 100% new.
Also, 1st gens eat front rotors (not as much on your 06, but it is a thing) if you don't keep the rear pads/parking brake/LSPV dialed. You will notice alot of hate for the 1st gen brakes, but once the rear is dialed, they work great. 1st gens came set up expecting people to put weight in the back, people don't anymore, so rears last a lifetime and the fronts get cooked fast. Saves a lot of trouble to just learn how that rear stuff works and get some rear contribution now. Fronts will last longer, and braking performance and pedal feel will improve once the rears are set properly.

Nothing else I can think of 06 specific that isn't true on any used car purchase.

Have Fun.

 

Welcome from Delaware
Nice score

 

First rule of 1GT club: get wp and tb

2nd rule of 1GT club: get bj’s

 

Welcome

 

LOL I like this, I would add specifically add, ONLY TOYOTA LBJs. But, I think also he's likely got time at 125k. But worth mentioning and monitoring for sure! Were low mileage critical failures a thing on 06s?

 

My truck is checking out good, so now I will follow rule 2 and I am off to get a BJ.

 

recommended in pairs.

 

Unfortunately, not a thing where I come from anymore. But oh how I miss my 20's.

 

Way to make it awkward, blue. No worries, i wasnt worried about the ball joints before i came here either. But since i need all the bushings, its a thing on early trucks, might as well do it while im in there. And needle bearing replacement bushings, and some lube or sealant to things.?!

 

I thought the first and second rule was to never talk about 1GT club.

 

Wait, my bad, I don't think you have a dipstick right? If not, you have a different procedure. Make sure you do a little homework on that either way.

 

Correct !

from 2006 FSM....

 

looks like I have a lot to do! I will probably start with the timing belt, I have heard a lot about those already.
Thanks for the information on the breaks that will be really helpful.

 

I feel like this has been said a dozen times recently, but you can pop the cover back and check the belt condition. As noted in another thread tonight, cover is easier to slide back on the passenger side. At least check the condition of the belt now for cracks and stuff (post a pic?) so you know if, like, you should NOT be driving it right now, or if there's some confidence you can put a few thousand miles between now and changeup time.

empty_lord posted up a link to the water pump/timing belt kit from Aisin over here in Tundra2's thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-rclb-v8-4wd-thread.94083/#post-2376172

 

South Jersey so I would say rust belt adjacent. I had a jeep rust out on me so a clean frame was a must when I was looking, there’s a few spots of surface rust and I plan on coating the frame at some point.

 

You could do fluid film yearly if you’re up to it. Make sure you can keep other important parts from seizing like the LCA cam adjustments, brake caliper pins, front diff drain and fill plugs, etc.

 

I just had to replace my belt tensioner 30,000 miles after I did my timing belt and water pump so I would definitely consider that if yours is not at 100%. I had belt squealing for a couple days and when I took the belt off and I rotated the belt tensioner to relieve pressure the belt tensioner stayed, it never sprang back, so think about that while you're doing the timing belt cuz you'll already have that part off. And if your existing serpentine belt is in good condition or okay condition I would throw that behind the back seat and put a new one on so that way if anything happens you won't be stranded. Something with spark plugs, throw a couple good ones in the glove box.

Also I would suggest replacing the thermostat and the radiator hoses since you're going to be making a mess, just do it all at one time. It's not that much more money and it's extra piece of mind and less labor you'll have to do down the road.

Something to consider when you do oil changes is to upgrade to the Mobil M1 - 301A oil filter because it is a good bit bigger than the stock oil filter size and it has a ton of filtration capacity

 

Good point, I definitely to do more all at once than a bunch of small jobs

 

I like the 2nd rule. Like, a lot.

 

This truck maintenance is getting exciting !