1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Finally got the broken fender bolt out. But...

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by toyota_fan, Aug 9, 2021.

  1. Aug 9, 2021 at 6:31 PM
    #1
    toyota_fan

    toyota_fan [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2021
    Member:
    #64987
    Messages:
    77
    Gender:
    Male
    Missoula, MT
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.7 Liter V8
    I should have listened to a forum member, who said to never use a screw extractor. The tip broke off in the hole I drilled (Drilled all the way through, using different sized Harbor freight left hand twist drill bits, before I decided to see if a screw extractor would work).

    So, today I was doing some Google search research, on how to remove a broken screw extractor. I saw this bit called the Rescue Bit (1/8" x 3"). I can't remember if their website said it was made of tungsten carbide. A short time after that, I notice a tungsten carbide bit at Lowe's, that looked similar to the Rescue Bit that cost $64.99. So I bought the Dremel Tungsten Carbide 1/8th inch Cutting Bit (bought the cylindrical and the cone shaped one for $9.99 and $8.99, no tax in Montucky).

    I was trying not to force the Dremel bits at first, and the cylindrical bit was really working like the Rescue Bit. The cone shaped Dremel bit was better for a pilot. So I went back to Lowe's and bought some industrial cobalt drill bits of differnet sizes. But the smallest drill bit wasn't doing anything. So I gave the cylindrical Dremel bit some good leverage/elbow grease, and moved my drill in a circular motion. It really did the trick.

    But I ended up grinding most of the female thread away.

    Should I buy a tap and die set that would have and M7 size tap, to try to tap a female thread that is one size larger?
     
    Darkness likes this.
  2. Aug 9, 2021 at 6:55 PM
    #2
    Gravy

    Gravy Cat herder, ASCM #π

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2021
    Member:
    #58774
    Messages:
    733
    Gender:
    Male
    Yucaipa, California
    Vehicle:
    2008 White DC 4x4, Limited TRD
    OME Nitrocharger/2612 (front), Bilstein 5100s (rear). Vanguard roll bar modified (by me) to fit over Patriot Stealth retractable tonneau. Aftermarket halo headlights with HID, various LED bulb replacements. 17" Fuel Blitz wheels with some 33" Nitto terra grapplers. Hoodscoop, nfab nerfbars, Bushwacker flares. No-name aftermarket grille, led fender extensions. Black Horse bambi-basher. Various offroad lights.
    Depends on the application. Also, most "common" metric bolt sizes jump from m6 to m8. What exactly did you bugger up?

    Also, harbor freight is getting... better *cough*, but if what you need requires a hardened steel or special alloy (i.e. drill bits, taps), shop elsewhere.

    I just noticed "fender" in your thread title, but could you be more specific, throw in a pic if you can.
     
    toyota_fan[OP] likes this.
  3. Aug 9, 2021 at 7:02 PM
    #3
    toyota_fan

    toyota_fan [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2021
    Member:
    #64987
    Messages:
    77
    Gender:
    Male
    Missoula, MT
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.7 Liter V8
    @Gravy I accidentally drilled out the female threads on the nut that one of the left front fender bolts bolts into.
     
  4. Aug 9, 2021 at 7:03 PM
    #4
    toyota_fan

    toyota_fan [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2021
    Member:
    #64987
    Messages:
    77
    Gender:
    Male
    Missoula, MT
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.7 Liter V8
    I guess the cheap fix would be to buy a bolt that's lobg enough, so I can secure with another nut.
     
    Gravy likes this.
  5. Aug 9, 2021 at 7:06 PM
    #5
    Gravy

    Gravy Cat herder, ASCM #π

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2021
    Member:
    #58774
    Messages:
    733
    Gender:
    Male
    Yucaipa, California
    Vehicle:
    2008 White DC 4x4, Limited TRD
    OME Nitrocharger/2612 (front), Bilstein 5100s (rear). Vanguard roll bar modified (by me) to fit over Patriot Stealth retractable tonneau. Aftermarket halo headlights with HID, various LED bulb replacements. 17" Fuel Blitz wheels with some 33" Nitto terra grapplers. Hoodscoop, nfab nerfbars, Bushwacker flares. No-name aftermarket grille, led fender extensions. Black Horse bambi-basher. Various offroad lights.
    Yeah, if it's a non-critical body nut, and theres room behind it, there's all kinds of options. A longer bolt and new nut is probably the easiest. GL!
     
    toyota_fan[OP] likes this.
  6. Aug 9, 2021 at 7:09 PM
    #6
    toyota_fan

    toyota_fan [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2021
    Member:
    #64987
    Messages:
    77
    Gender:
    Male
    Missoula, MT
    Vehicle:
    2006 Tundra SR5 Double Cab 4.7 Liter V8
    @Gravy Thanks! I will save some money.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top