Orig. Plugs in Low Mileage 2006 Tundra

I recently purchased a 2006 2WD DC Tundra from a neighbor with only 58K miles. The truck was garage-kept and well maintained, he only used it on weekends because he has a company car.
He was good on service (gave me receipts) which were all performed at a local Toyota stealership.
He had the timing belt, H2O pump/belt/ coolant replaced 2 years ago at 52K miles due to 'age' not mileage. They also did a transmission flush and re-fill at the same time. Brakes / oil change were recently done, as well as new tires and shocks, so it's mechanically pretty sound.
I'm kinda going through it a little at a time just because of the 'age' of the truck. I did a good clean on the engine compartment (dusty). I cleaned the MAF sensor, and pulled the throttle body and gave that a clean as well. All fluid levels look good and clean, air filter is nice and clean on both sides.
I'm 99% sure the truck has the original spark plugs from 2006. I pulled one and it 'appeared' to look good, however I'm no spark plug expert. Would you recommend changing them due to the age (or another reason) and not mileage of the truck? I've read they are a 60K mile plug, and I've also read they are a 120K mile plug. I'm ok with changing them for good reason, but I don't wanna buy new ones just for the sake of spending money etc.
Any opinions/ advice or experience would be appreciated.

 

I would change them, not because of the age but because it has 60K miles. It's cheap and easy.

 

Change them, it's fun and easy, plus you get to see the top of your pistons . Just make sure you use NGK IFR6A11 spark plugs, gapped at .039-.043.those are your spark plug specs for you 05-06 v8's. DO NOT use anti seize. Do not.

 

Plugs are Denso iridium and look pretty clean .... coil pack looked super clean & no cracks etc.

 

So iridiums go 120K. Don't believe time affects them like many other parts on a vehicle.

Did you say truck starts easy, idles good and runs well?

If so, I'd just work on the fluids and rubber stuff, plus I'd take a really good look at the radiator/cap, 10-12 yrs is the norm on those.

 

Yeah . . . runs perfect. Still idles a bit high on a cold start up, but that settles down after it warms up.

 

That's normal and with the fan it sounds like a jet engine taking off

 

Two schools of thought:
A. I'm a cheap bastid, clean em up and re-install/run them until it runs rough...
B. I'm obsessive...new plugs are cheap, these show some wear (they do) so replace them according to spec just to baby your new baby/workhorse.
Take care of it and you'll never have to walk/hitch to the parts store...after dark with no flashlight.

 

The aversion to anti-seize is based on what? I've used copper anti-seize on my plugs since I've owned the truck and never had any issues. Is there something I should be looking out for?

 

I know NGK specifically says not to use anti seize on their plugs. It can lead to people over torquing them. Since that's what I put in my truck this last time I didn't use anti-seize.

 

That's good info, thanks. I know that both anti-seize and threadlock both act like a lubricant when tightening a bolt. Didn't know the NGK had that plating on it. Not sure what's in my truck now. My maintenance log I keep just says Platinums at 212k miles. I'll have to look in my big gurl history.

 

Anti-seize also has metal which can lead to pre-ignition problems as it heats higher than the plug and housings causing the combustion chamber to flash before the spark. This condition I’d be more worried about than the torque values.

 

I used anti seize and it caused my engine to misfire cause it messed with the electric spark n shiet

 

I totally forgot you were the anti-seize guy that drowned your plugs in the stuff. Good times.

 

I have alway put a one finger dab of motor oil on the threads when installing plugs. Never had an issue. Anyone else subscribe to this method?

 

Anti-seize and thread lock both only require a drop. I usually distribute with my finger. It's only on the threaded portion about 1/8" above the bottom of the threads. Never had any ignition problems, plugs have always come out without a fuss. If I'm using NGK, in the future I'll know this is unnecessary. Thanks.

 

@Pucks18

Why no anti-seize? It's used commonly on plug threads. Please advise.

 

NGK plugs specifically state anti-seize is not needed and often leads to people over torquing them.

 

Good to know. First I've heard of it.

 

couple of uggas uggas less than that !

 

I always hand tighten my plugs till they’re snug and use a sparse amount of anti-seize and have never had any issues. But I also change them out at 60k or less.

 

I think as long as one is careful it should be fine to use anti-seize. I just don't trust myself.

 

I once had to help a friend drill out a 100k iridium plug changed at 100k. Not a fun experience. Don’t want to go through that again, so I’m pretty diligent about replacing my own early or on time now. One of the reason I go with the standard 30k Toyota plugs with anti-seize.

 

I do 18 ft-lb if I have a torque wrench handy. Usually by feel though, if you do enough of them you can feel the crush washer stop 'crushing' and know to stop.

Per ngk: