Finally got the Bilsteins installed

Working on it part time in the Texas heat I finally got the 5100s installed on all 4 corners. Fronts were of course the hardest. While the original KYBs with 156k miles came out pretty easy the Bilstiens wanted no part of this install on the front. Finally had to drop the lower ball joint to get the clearance needed for installation.

These are the standard 5100s on the front and rear and went back with the OEM spring. Had a shop down the road do the swap over. The ring on the front is in the middle position. Ground to bottom of fender measures 35" in the front and 37" in the rear. Placing a level on the truck bed shows it to be pretty level.

Going for the alignment in the AM. Have not had it out on the road yet.
Pics are post install.

 

looks good. measurements are usually from the center of the hub to the fender if you ever wanna compare to others fyi.

 

Here is the thread:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

I wish my truck was that color. How's your clearcoat?

 

Looks great. I just put 5100’s adjustables on the front of mine to level it. Still have to put the backs on. Did you have to cut your rear shock to get it off? I tried to get mine off but it’s spinning. I did try getting a pair of vise grips on the top but it eventually slipped off, doesn’t help it’s in a tight spot. I don’t want to cut them if I don’t have too. They are the 4600 Bilstiens they were replaced by the previous owner not to many miles ago. I was planning on putting them on here for free to give to someone in need of the set just cover shipping. I have the struts that are still good if anyone is interested. Doubt I can get the rear off in one piece.

 

Nice ride @Legender! I have not had the alignment checked since installing mine as I will just wait until I install new tires in the next year or two. I don't recall what position I set mine at but think it was the 3rd position from the bottom.

@Jcross0304 apply some penetrating fluid if you haven't already. Some shocks allow you to insert a hex key in the top of the shaft. Worst case you can use the vise grips to hold the lower section of the shaft which will mar the shaft. I would just leave the rears if they are in good condition.

 

The top of the shaft is designed to put an open ended wrench on it to hold, it might be a 10mm.

 

Truck looks great. Post up your impressions of ride and handling with them on the 3rd notch after you've logged a few miles.

Interestingly enough there was a truck just like yours parked next to me at work this morning when I left. Wanted to take a pic since it was so clean but believe it or not it was pouring down rain and very gray and dark in this part of the desert. Monsoon season and all that.

 

That looks very nice

 

@tunyota I will try putting some oil on there. The 5100’s have the ability to use a hex key the 4600’s need a wrench. I will try to pull the sleeve down and use some vise grips from the bottom. Appreciate the advice.

@seth419 Who ever installed them rounded them a bit and they I’m not able to get a wrench on them. I already have the 5100’s so I’m going to go ahead and install them. I got a good price on the whole set so it made since to go ahead and change them all out.

Also bought some Firestone airbags to have when I tow. These trucks drop a lot when you put weight in the back of them.

 

Looks great.

 

Looks nice... i liked how mine looked more when I had it on that setting. That being said I put mine on the third position to start. My shop couldn’t align them correctly on 3rd slot. Next alignment I did 2nd slot and they were able to get it barely into spec. And now after the third alignment I’m going to the bottom setting so I can get a better alignment and not go through tires so fast. My ride height might be different though. I have an ac cab and lift springs.

 

Thanks guys. I did use my sawzall and cut through one of the bolts on the rears as it would not come off. Using the vise grips shared off that part of the bolt and left me with nothing to grab. Let me get those new measurements from the center hub to the fender. Overall, very pleased with the new appearance and removing the rake. Jury is still out on the ride improvement as I've not had time to get it out yet.

Checked the measurements from center hub to fender: Front: 21" and rear 22.5". Both driver side and passenger side measured the same.

 

Pretty happy with these results... drive side bed railing.

 

Wait, did you say fronts were the hardest?

 

Yes, but mostly because I had to figure out that I had to release the lower ball joint to get enough clearance to get the new shock in there. The rear shocks dropped right in, once the old ones were removed and were simple to install and took less work. I also replaced the sway bar links and swapped out the original brake lines for braided steel lines. So, just lots more work on the front end than the rears.

 

Looks great. Still waiting on mine that I order a couple weeks back

 

@Legender do you have a link for the braided steel brake lines?

 

Picked up these on Amazon. Perfect fit. Those two rubber plugs are for plugging up the brake line to limit the fluid loss. Pretty tight fit.

$56 StopTech 950.44007 StopTech Stainless Steel Front Brake lines for 95-07 Toyota 4 Runner

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0136U9JJS?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title

 

@Legender Thanks. Do you notice a difference with them?

 

Got my rear shocks replaced finally. I did not have to cut them. I removed my spare tire and was luckily able to get some vise grips on the top to get them off. The passenger side is a real pain but I had some help from a friend.

Like I mentioned before I have some used 4600’s front and rear if anyone wants them. Feel free to message me all I ask is you cover shipping. They have a few more miles than I thought. Looking back at the previous owners documents they have 33k on them. Only replaced them since I lifted the truck a little. I also have a

$148 hellwig 991 EZ-990 helper spring kit

hellwig 991 if anyone is interested. Wasn’t on my truck very long decide airbags would be better for my needs.

 

Not enough that it makes a difference. Changed those and all the fluid at the same time so not sure what is the major contribution. Ride is already different due to the shock change so can't pinpoint the exact cause. The rubber as old and original so thought I'd upgrade to these as they were only $20 a side.

 

PM'd you about the 4600's.

 

The 4600’s have been claimed if anyone is wondering. Glad they are going to be put to use.

 

Uhh dude. Those can be used as plugs... but those are bleeder screw covers fwiw.

there’s also a back braided line too if you want to do all 3. I think i ordered my rear from wheelers?

 

Thanks... I'll replace my old ones with these. Since I had a problem with one of the tubes being stripped out I had to wait overnight until the part came in from Toyota to get it back together. So, it worked great for that also. No instructions with the parts and not sure they'd ship bleeder covers when I was not replacing the bleeders. I'm learning.

 

I’m forever learning too, Nbd.

I think it’s a courtesy thing. They know you’re going to be working in that area so might as well throw them in. There were some that came with my brake pads too. Over time the rubber can dry out and rot or just fall off. If your fronts are still good I’d check and see if you still have some in the rear.