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Tech Help for No Start on 08

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by pakky87, Jul 4, 2021.

  1. Jul 4, 2021 at 1:19 PM
    #1
    pakky87

    pakky87 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2020
    Member:
    #49458
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    Hey everyone. Have had an issue with my future MIL's 08 Tundra with the 5.7. Sometime ago it shutoff on her in her yard and wouldn't start back up. Turns over, but no start. Next let me say I think it is immobilizer related from what I have found previously online, and wanted to double check for yall's opinion on the issue.

    Things done -

    First of all I checked to be sure that she had gas, gauge shows plenty (no problems with it previously) and she put some in not too long before it happened.
    Oil was looooowwwww, so I put some in that I had laying around for my fiancée's 06 just to be sure that it wasn't a low oil pressure cutoff situation.
    Listened for the fuel pump, was able to hear it prime.
    Replaced the old battery (had other fun with that due to bad corrosion, but shouldn't relate).
    Also during that day, had twice where it would start for just a second and wasn't able to repeat.

    Previous issues -
    Only an issue with the secondary air injection a couple of years ago that sounded like a bad bearing when it kicked on for start up in cold weather, but didn't come back this past year.
    Only code is in relation to power steering, which I had to purchase a "decent" scanner for as the $20 one I had bought previously wouldn't work with it, and this one would only scan using the quick scan function. Here is a link to the scanner I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DCNDFVK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8

    Two other people (no idea on their experience or qualifications) came out and took a look at it and decided it was the fuel pump (apparently checked the gauge connector and no fuel was coming out) so it was replaced with a new pump and still didn't fix the issue.

    Key situation is that there was only 1 key that Toyota gave her when she bought it used in 2009, had another key made at Lowes after this problem. Apparently there was some issue with making it, whether it was the key chip being the issue or the equipment at Lowes being the problem is up for debate, but that key wouldn't work either.

    After further research, I looked into seeing if the immobilizer light on the dash would go off, and it wouldn't with the key in the ignition. Also didn't cause the ding when the door was open.

    So right now I am at the point of either the chip in the key is bad (which is possibly why when trying to make a copy had so many issues, have to go back to dealer for replacement or can locksmith handle?) or something related to the immobilizer is bad, such as possibly the antenna ring which is what I am considering trying next, so was curious if there was any programming needed (and how difficult it is to replace) if I replaced it. I have also seen a video about resetting the immobilizer system for ECU replacement (which was not replaced in this situation) which was jumping pin 4 and 13 on the OBDII port, so may try that before throwing more money at the problem.

    Thank you all for your time and help! Hopefully we can get this truck back on the road soon.
     
  2. Jul 9, 2021 at 9:55 AM
    #2
    Jeff_5_7

    Jeff_5_7 New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2021
    Member:
    #59378
    Messages:
    1,433
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jeff
    Houston Tx Area
    Vehicle:
    2007 RCSB 2014+ TRD Pro Conversion 5.7 4x4
    Full 2014+ Conversion Regular Cab Short Bed 4X4 2019 TRD Pro Grill, 2014+ Front End Swap 2014+ Interior/Dash Swap with TRD Pro Leather Seats, 2014+ Bed Swap with TRD Pro Stamping SOS 2/4 Drop Kit
    You say it cranks over strong when you try to start it correct? You know you keep good voltage across the battery when trying to start?

    If this is the case I would try a few things.
    1) Quick and dirty check to see if its getting fuel. Shoot some carb cleaner down the intake (inject a fuel source) if the truck starts and runs for a few seconds, then dies it proves you are not getting fuel from your fuel pump and that is your problem.

    If the truck still wont start I would think you have no ignition (spark) because of an electrical issue

    2) Close all the doors, put the key in the slot on the outside of the drivers side door. Turn it to lock and unlock several times back and forth. This used to be the way to reset the factory alarm theft deterrent system.

    3) You could have a bad key/transponder. Techsteam has an option to program new keys to the truck. I think it is straight forward if you have a laptop with techstream and a cable. I have never done it before but that could be what fixes it. I would try the two things listed above first.

    You could also disconnect the battery for 20+ mins and let all the ECUs reset. Its worth a shot.
     

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