Towing concerns

I have a 2018 TRD Off-road Tundra. I contacted Toyota directly and gave them my vin number to get the actual towing capacity, which was 8500lbs. I have a 2020 Forrest River travel trailer, tongue weight is 750lbs, average GVWR 6800lbs. I am using Eazlift stabilizing hitch. When I connect it to the truck and connect the stabilizer bars, the truck still squats too much in my opinion. The leaf springs are about flat when loaded, and there is about an inch between the bump stop and the frame of the truck. I am trying to figure out if the trailer company set up the hitch incorrectly or if I just need to add Sumosprings to compensate. From everything I’ve read the truck is more than capable for the purpose.

 

how much squat are you getting, measure it. A properly set up WDH will only squat the rear about an inch. My guess is the WDH needs some adjustment of you are seeing more than and inch of squat.

 

tundra springs are so soft they squat just looking at the trailer. His trailer is very heavy, it may still squat even with weight going to the front as well

 

If you don't need much axle articulation, go with Sumo springs, I have yellow myself, many don't like the harsher ride and use the black or blue version. If you want to keep axle articulation I recommend Dobinson's HD leaf packs or HD Roadmaster active suspension kit, I have all of the above and can haul literally over a ton with minimal squat.

 

agree it is a heavy tow and likely near or at max payload , but still need to measure front and rear heights unloaded and then loaded with trailer so he knows how much the front and rear is dropping. If it is pretty even front to rear in drop the WDH is doing its job. Or, the front may drop just a little or none at all and the rear a down few inches which would indicate adjustments to WDH can offer improvement....no way to know unless you actually measure and see where you are.

One thing is for sure, you can't count on the trailer dealer to set up the WDH and then forget it. They can get it set in the ballpark for the ride home but there are too many variables as each camping trip can be different depending on the load and amount of gear you are carrying.

 

Your actual trailer weight is more than what is listed on the plate.

It's a heavy trailer when it has gear and food in it.

 

The trailer is never heavier than what the placard states, I make sure of that. Dry without propane, water, etc., about 5200. I did figure out that the place set it up incorrectly. I am off by four inches when both are disconnected and at rest. I need to flip the hitch and adjust to 1-2 inches and then reconnect and see where I’m at. If I’m still not happy I will try the Sumo route. I won’t be putting more money into major suspension add ons. Thank you all for the information!

 

I use timbren, I don’t tow, but haul hella tools on my bed

 

What about axle articulation? Looks like the gap to frame is really close. Do those collapse pretty ez?

 

They are same as sumo spring, but I think this is harder. I have nice factory ride until I go over speed bumps. It’s have a good bounce when it hit it

 

Sumo springs are great until you need articulation of the axle. That's one reason I installed new leaf packs with some lift. I used to just keep a second set of Sumo springs that I cut down just a bit taller than the factory bump stops. Hi lift on the hitch and swapped them really fast. Now I have a nice 2.5+" gap to the frame when empty, good enough for my applications. I really think the best investment any Tundra owners can make is the Roadmaster active suspension kit. Really ez and effective.

 

I run cut down sumos as well. When i need to tow they swap really easy, pull a tire up on the curb and it flexes enough to unscrew the short ones and put the tall ones in.

I highly recommend against sumo springs if you dont have them yet, just get RAS

 

I measured the wheel wells with the truck on level ground without load, measurements taken from the bottom of the wheel well to the ground. Front is 36 7/8”, back is 38 5/8”. Just an FYI

 

If the trailer and truck are level in the pic, your ball hitch needs to drop about 4-5"

The ball should be level with the trailer hitch and you should have to raise trailer to get it on.

It's not even close

 

One thing I learned about replacing with either Sumo or Timbren is that the u bolts should always be replaced when doing the swap. The u bolts apparently stretch. That info was from two different sources.

 

With his stock suspension the hitch would almost hit the ground after it was hitched up.

 

That truck is going to sag no matter what you do to the hitch. There just isn't enough beef in the springs for 800 lbs. behind the tailgate. Hopefully you don't plan to tow in the dark, before a suspension mod occurs.

 

One more thing OP, when towing it is very helpful to have E load rated tires. Stiffer sidewalls keep stability much better.

 

Flip ur hitch, make it a 2” drop than a 2” raise hitch

 

You also need to remember that tongue weight is usually without anything in the trailer. In other words, no batteries and propane. At 6800 pounds, your tongue weight will probably be well north or 750. Even with a properly setup WDH, you will be 12-15% tongue weight in a travel trailer. So with a travel trailer that weighs 6800 pounds, real world you will be between 820-1,000 pounds. Add in a 100 lb. WDH and I guaranteed you are pushing 1,000 pounds.

Add in the fact that that hitch is pretty dang high and you are really increasing tour tongue weight.

At 1,000 pounds, the Tundra is going to squat a ton.

Lower your hitch, to more even with the trailer. Then use the WDH to raise the rear of the truck and distribute more weight on the front wheels.

 

Yep, that is the plan! The trailer with full water and propane is 6874. I’m going to flip the hitch, drop it by two inches to start, and test it out. BTW, I did check and the 750 tongue weight is indeed including propane. It supposedly includes the full water tank but I’m not banking on that.

 

Trailer weight is nothing, wait until the wind resistance starts kicking in. There's a huge difference between 7k lbs. of rebar on a flat bed vs a 7k lb. 9 ft tall box.

 

The important thing here is the front fender height. When your WDH is fully hooked-up with your TT and Two vehicle, you need to return to that height of 36 7/8". Even a slightly lower measurement (1/2 inch is acceptable). A Little rear sag may be acceptable. My TT has a 7k GVWR like yours, and runs level.

I use Firestone Ride Rites inflated between 30-35psi when I tow. If I deflate them to 10 psi, there is almost no change in rear squat because the setup is pushing that weight back to the front end. The ride rites just serve to avoid excess bounce over uneven terrain...i go to some pretty remote off-grid places. Before my setting everything up, I take just my truck through the CAT scales. Once I have everything set and level, I take it back through to make sure weight is back over the front axle.

 

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-guides/manuals/6k-14k-model-owners-manual/installation/weight-distribution-adjustments

https://youtu.be/ymcB2yeZr4s

These should help get you setting up your hitch

 

Very good explanation in setting up the WDH. I’m very new with weight distribution hitches, but been working in and out of the construction driving tractor trailers and tri-axle dump trucks. Hauled many pickup loads that made the front end feel way to light. I do understand completely how WDH works and why. We bought our first RV in April. Now mind you a worker at the RV set my truck up, and that’s what he does. When I left there I was like WOW! What’s going on here? We were on secondary roads and never went over 40MPH because I couldn’t. My Tundra was all over the road! I did some research on you tube on my own and found exactly what I just read. And I do understand exactly how it works. I got it down to a science. On the open road with traffic permitting I can cruise 65 to 70 MPH and still have vehicles passing me, and my Tundra is rock solid. Unloaded the front fender well is 36” the rear is 38”. Loaded the front is 36”, the rear is 37 3/4”. I also put the ride right air bags in place. I had 40PSI in the bags, when I put the motorcycle in the back I had to let out 15PSI and it settled to 38” again. No chasing the front end at all. I just give myself plenty of room for stopping and I’m constantly using my human radar. We do pull our RV’s around very inconsiderate drivers.
Thank you for sharing,
Anthony C
PS I’m using the EAZ-LIFT R3

 

I just went with the RC 3.5 kit, but made some adjustments. I have the coilovers, UCAs, diff drop kit, rear N3 shocks, ICON 1.5 inch rear leaf pack, coachbuilder +1 shackles.

I also just bought a 22 Forest River 28VBXL at about 6,400 dry and plan to get the weight distribution hitch. After a bit beefier suspension, it'll be interesting to see how it sits.

 

I’ve come a long way in a short time with the weight distribution hitch. (WDH) To take more weight off the pickup, tilt the head of the hitch back towards your RV. There are adjustments for this. Without the RV hooked up looking straight down at the 2 5/8 ball. Just in front of the ball going towards the bumper of your pickup there’s an adjustable star wheel. Loosen the big cross bolts on the head. At the bottom of the head you will see another adjustment bolt, the adjustment bolt has a square head. Back the bolt out so you don’t see the threads sticking out. Turn the adjustment wheel all the way in, mark the top of the star wheel with a marker or with whatever you can. Turn the star wheel out 6 full turns, then tighten the square head bolt snug so the head doesn’t move back and forth. Tighten the big cross bolts and hook up to the RV and lock the coupler. Use the jack of the RV and take the weight off the pickup. Pick the truck up with the RV jack and coupler locked. Put you torsion bars and safety pins in place. Pick up the RV jack like you’re ready to travel. Measure the height of the front and rear fender wells. At this adjustment you should be close to where it was before hooking up to the RV. A word of advice, if you choose to put air bags in remember, the more air you put in the bags. The more weight you’re putting back on the axle of the pickup. I use my air bags to assist the WDH when on wavy roads and bumps. The WDH is supposed to take the weight off the pickup and put it back on the RV. I hope what I explained you understand. If you have to take more weight off the pickup, back the star wheel out another half turn and go from there.
Note; I started with 5 1/2 turns on the star wheel, then went to 6 turns. This worked out perfectly for me. I have an 2021 XLR 27 LRLE MICRO BOOST. My pickup looks like it’s not even hooked up to a trailer when I’m ready to roll. There is a sway control on your EAZ-LIFT. Read the instructions to set it correctly.
Anthony C