Where’s my electrical gurus

I’m not real good with adding interior electronics lol but just here me out. Ya




https://caliraisedled.com/products/toyota-usb-outlet?_pos=1&_sid=36d0c6b39&_ss=r

Got this power outlet to add in the last switch blank in my wife’s sequoia. Ideally I’d like to run the wiring over to the interior fuse panel and tie in there using a pig tail fuse. Will the 15 amp fuse handle that kind of load or do I need to up fuse size? I figured a pigtail fuse would be easy to isolate if any issues were to come up. Also, If I’m using a pigtail I don’t need an inline fuse do I?

This a bad idea, or got a better suggestion?

 

I would just splice into the wires running to the power outlet

 

i second this

 

I’ll third just slicing into your cigarette lighter/power outlet wires.

It’s got an in-line barrel fuse already and you’ll get to the power outlet wires a lot easier than running to the cabin fuse box. Unless you’re trying to run a 110V inverter and a fridge while charging your phone, you’re not going to have any issues…

 

15A should be sufficient. There is a max current per the USB standard if you can find it but I know it’s well under 15A.

 

10-4, thanks fellas. Guess the cigarette lighter is the smarter play

 

current “high-output” quick chargers are max 3A. Most quick-charge are 2.1A and the early basic chargers were 1A to 1.5A.

 

Still well below 15A. Guess it depends what else is using that fuse.

 

So am I correct with black being ground and white being hot?

that’s the color code, I wired up too and everything works. I didn’t realize both of those 12 volt ports were always hot

 

Step one to becoming an electrical guru is buying a test light. They are cheap, and easy to find, just make sure your only checking low voltage with it.

 

Thread reviving cause I’m back to playing with my electrical

So I’m getting ready to do bed lights, and wanna run them off the dome light circuit but include a bed switch also.

The game plan: is a dedicated 12 ga power wire from the battery to a 4 pin relay. 18 gauge wire connecting the lights together. And then 14 gauge back into the cab to tie into the dome circuit. Question is do those wire sizes sound right? Or got a bed suggest to attempt this?

if it matters
Switch specs:


And light specs: x4

• 10 watt LED produces 800 Lumens!
• Ultra bright White LED.
• Impact resistant construction.
• Fully sealed, corrosion and waterproof.
• Draws only 200 milli-amps each at 12 volts.

 

I = P/V or perhaps I'm missing something !

Spoiler

833 mA

 

@BubbaW idk man I didn’t catch that. Those were copy and pasted off the lights website. But that math don’t work lol

 

Most LED resellers are liars. There is a good chance those lights are 10w equivalent or in other words more like 1w. Do your homework.

 

Or ea lamp is 2.5W

2.5/12= 208 mA(close to their figure)

in either case, I feel your wire choices are adequate Logan @Cummins3500 !

 

I say your wire gauges are fine. The longer the wire run the more resistance it has but your LED power draw is very low. The power draw for the relay are low as well so I think tapping into the dome light would be fine.

Make sure to fuse block the wire close to the battery.

 

@onesojourner @BubbaW @Cruzer thanks fellas. I’ll do some checking and see if I can get some clarification on the light specs. I’ll be sure to throw a fuse on the run straight from the battery.

 

I’m back with another question, so for that power feed to the relay, I’d like to use an add a fuse kit. But majority of em are like 16 or 18 gauge wire tails to splice too. Is it gonna matter? Because the bed light circuit itself shouldn’t need more than a 10 amp fuse right?the dome light circuit is a 15 amp.

I did get some clarification on the lights, those specs are per light but they stuck with those numbers I mentioned above.

or should I go with an inline fuse? Since the relay will be placed towards the rear of the truck?