Fixing Access Cab rear side window latches

I just did this on both my Gen 1 Tundras and ask this be a sticky to help others with some very useful tips. Time investment, 10-20 minutes per window if you follow my instructions.

Problem: These came with flimsy cheap plastic, and they generally break.
Solution: Inexpensive aluminum latches.

This is the broken part:

What you'll need.
1. Latches. You'll need 1 for each window. They are little macaroni shaped aluminum or steel. I ordered from Amazon, a 4 pack (I have 2 trucks; order 1 latch per window) plus a steel dowel was $9. So this is a $2 solution per window. There were many vendors and I used this one. My items were shipped immediately and perfect fitment:

Frienda 4 Pieces Rear Window Latch Hinge Pivots and 2 Pieces Iron Bolts, Compatible with Tacoma 1995-2004 and Tundra Xtracab 2000-2006, Aluminum, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0925TZVQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8



2. Tools:
* Liquid wrench or other penetrating oil;
* Medium sized hammer;
* Large or medium locking vice grips;
* Phillips screwdriver with long shaft;
* Large/medium channel locks or similar.

Continued.

 

3. Operation. You have to carefully remove 1 screw and 2 roll pins on each latch, and then reverse order to install.

4. Steps.
A. This is important and only takes 1 minute. None of the installation videos or info suggested this, and it would have helped me not break mine. Spray each roll pin with some penetrating oil. Hold a rag under the spray to keep it off other surfaces. Wipe it down and let it soak into the roll pins. I really struggled with my first set and the second set I did penetrating oil and it was remarkably easier. Let it set for 30 minutes and return to the project.

B. Remove the screw and latch from the window. Do this to avoid or any possible chance of breaking the window while you're hammering on the dowel. Set aside. The window will be free of the latch system. Be mindful, the screw has a corresponding anchor nut that may fall out. So if it's loose remove and set it aside so it's not lost.



C. Using vice grips, carefully lock it onto the aluminum latch mechanism, just next to the roll pin. This is important, and again no video I saw suggested this important step to prevent breakage. This fragile aluminum can break while you're banging on that roll pin with a dowel. I learned the hard way, and broke one of the arms (lubrication may have also helped). This is how I learned to lubricate it, and support with vice grips. Leave the vice grips in place for the entire installation.

D. After vice grips are installed for support, carefully use the steel dowel and tap the roll pin out from top to bottom, ensuring it's alignment is correct throughout. Don't hammer away or force it too hard as you will break the mechanism. I broke mine, and had to superglue it back together. The use of oil and vice grips is a must here.



E. The latch portion that you removed from the window has a corresponding roll pin. Use the dowel to drive this out. Be careful, this is 20 year old plastic. I put a small chip in mine. It's helpful to set it on a surface that has a hole for the roll pin to come out, such as between two boards or a board with a hole in it, etc.

 

Re-installation.

F. Orient the aluminum piece in the correct way, with the curvature outward and the little horn facing outward and toward the front of the vehicle, like so:

 

G. There are two roll pins. Use the SMALLER rollpin and install that in the corresponding rearward hole on the macaroni piece. The best way is to start it in the hole, line it up, and use channel locks to carefully just squeeze it into place. Be gentle, slow, and steady.

 

H. Carefully reinstall the LARGER roll pin in the plastic section and thru the forward section of macaroni. Repeat the operation with the channel locks, gently squeezing it into place. The horn should fit into the plastic section.

 

I. You should be able to get the roll pins flush on either but if they aren't flush now is the time to remedy this by gently using the hammer and metal dowel. Tap them flush. Do this BEFORE re-connecting this to the window to avoid any chance of breaking the window.

 

J. You are home-free. Final step. You need to screw the bracket back into the window's corresponding nut. It's a little tricky but reach around to the outside and hold the female portion and get the screw in. Don't over-tighten, just get is snug. You could locktight if you desire.


K. Congratulations! You completed the job. Now have a cold one!

 

This is about a $5 solution that can be done in under 30 minutes to fix that nagging cheap broken latch. It's puzzling why Toyota did those, but thankfully it's an easy fix.

 

Newbie here, but around for a long time. 2003 AC, and just yesterday my wife opened my, new to me by 3 weeks, AC rear windows. She could not get them closed, I looked at them and noted BROKEN, good something else to fix. This morning I read this thread, and parts are on order.
Now only 19 left in stock - order soon.
Looking forward to getting this fixed.
GREAT write up, super pics, YOU DID A GOOD THING!!
This does indeed need to be a sticky!

 

Wouldn’t it be easier to take both sides of the latch off the door and do it on a bench or does the latch attached to the door not come off?

 

Your suggestion seems to be far more difficult and risk breaking trim. The part attached to the truck is made of aluminum, and is somehow affixed to the vehicle under trim pieces so it cannot be seen. It would require removing significant sections of plastic molding. Whenever that's done, there's always risk of breaking trim pieces. I don't know what you'd encounter under there or how it's anchored. Maybe screwed, maybe riveted, I don't know. But removing the trim would likely take more time than just doing it the way I wrote up.

You can see from this picture the anchor is hidden beneath trim.

 

I must’ve taken off the door panel 20 times already. Easy peasy. It’s only a couple screwed and generic plastic clips holding it on. I just can’t remember how the latch was secured to the door.

 

If you could provide instructions and how that piece is affixed, I'd be curious because I might like to replace my anchor point since I broke it and had to super-glue it.

But I don't see the benefit of the added steps because it works as I've instructed. Taking it off, just to put it in a vice, would not really assist in any way. It's anchored very solidly. But it would add steps of removing trim, removing the anchor, and then reinstalling all of that. Triples the time investment...

 

https://youtu.be/S5V9yRHthZE

I've had the door panel off too using thus video. I want to say I used a vice with the whole latch removed, but that was years ago. So memory is fuzzy.

Great write up @ToyotaJim!

 

My windows rattle with fleabay aluminum ones.....the camover is not right

 

Thanks for posting that video @Tundra2 since it's good to know how to remove the panel and how the mechanism is affixed by 2 10mm bolts to the door. It looks like the man in the video bought and replaced the entire mechanism, so had to remove the panel.

I don't think that's necessary in this case.

I'll take mine for a drive and report back, but they feel like they fit perfectly and latch solidly.

 

Please do. I will use your link if they are good and snug. Thanks.

 

In Heath Shelburn's video, "Removing the back door panel" I screen grabbed this pic that shows the two fasteners, whether they be bolts or studs, too low of resolution to determine, that hold this handle to the frame. However when I pop my interior for the new Sony head-unit and all speaker install, I will update with a much better pic, and what is what! At least this current pic gives an idea how the handle is affixed!

 

I did mine this way... Door panel pops on off easily once panel screws are all removed...

 

Again, no need. Taking off the door panel (and the 10mm bolts) (and haveing to reinstall it all) more than doubles the chore and risks breaking plastic clips.

 

I understand where you're coming from on the clips, but someone may decide that installing the pin will be easier for them with the latch removed. If that's the case, that's how they will do it.

We should be reporting multiple ways to do the same task if it's something small, and unbothersome like this. "The reader" whomever they may be can decide for themselves which way to proceed with.

My rear quarter glass window latches were broken for years, and were never opened. They stayed latched down tight because I finangled that lever we replace into the "closed" position. Even after I fixed the windows they were rarely opened. I've never seen anybody use those windows unless they were camping, and wanted to circulate air flow.

 

Did mine in April on my 2001 Limited, both windows, 45 minutes, replaced them with new latches, and had time to clean all the crud out of the door panels.
Easy job.