P0894

Hello all,
Edit: 07 Tundra 5.7l 231k 2wd
Well, I hit a snag today... I got a p0894 code, referencing transmission component slipping.. Was supposed to make a run to Petaluma today, but this blindsided me today.. It started at a stop light... once I hit the accelerator there was a slight delay and a heavy pedal feeling and a surging acceleration past 2.2k rpm. It is very similar to a clutch starting to go. Where you can accelerate then 3k rpm and it will catch and it will go to the moon. After acceleration and shifting appears to be ok... just initial acceleration... no apparent leaking, fluid change has been awhile.. maybe I'll start there. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance

Edit: Here is some continuation to my transmission issues.
I think a rodent got me. Transmission and engine codes. | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Can you produce the same results if you manual shift?

 

Torque converter slipping? Is my guess.


Found this on the line:

https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-p0894-transmission-component-slipping

 

Actually forgot to mention that. Yes I tried and It appears to accelerate fine in 1st geat manual shift... may need to override 1st gear that way, as I did some testing while closer to home... but if manual mode in "6th gear" it will do the same hesitation in both "manual" and "D"... if I drop it to 1st it appears to be OK...

 

That was my main thought, except I was focusing on the flexplate, you just reminded me that they are usually bolted together.... This is something else I found, more specific on the Tundra

http://www.ttundra.com/1068/transmission_component_slipping_p0894_p2714_.html


P0894

The ECM detects a malfunction in shift solenoid valve SLT, S1, S2, S3, S4 or SL2, or the 1-2 shift valve, or an incorrect gear 6 ratio according to the difference in speed of the turbine and output shaft, and also by the oil pressure (2-trip detection logic).

• Shift solenoid valve SLT remains open or closed
• Shift solenoid valve S1, S2, S3, S4 or SL2 remains open or closed
• Gear 6 incorrect ratio (sequence valve) or 1-2 shift valve is stuck
• Valve body is blocked
• Automatic transmission (clutch, brake, gear, etc.)

 

If there's no leaks i would check condition of fluid.
Maybe there's a transmission expert that will chime in with suggestions.
When it comes to internal transmission problems, we're getting above my pay grade.lol

 

I'll have to check fluid tomorrow, as I'm at work right now... LOL.

 

Got a full box of WS transmission fluid I was going to exchange a couple months ago, but forgot due to unforeseen circumstances.... may swing by the stealership and snag more..

 

Yes, the flex plate is usually bolted between the crank and TC.

 

MMMM I think I may be too late, but IDK??? I found a TSB, but not sure it its valid. It appears to be a C1 Clutch damage, and I will post this up here.. It appears as if my transmission is gone.....

 

Sequential Shift isn't a true manual mode, if I lock my truck in 4th gear (I have a 5 speed auto) to prevent it from going into overdrive while towing, itll still shift down to 3,2, and 1, and it will shift up to 4 while taking off, but it will not shift to 5. Its like a lockout for how high the trans can shift. So if you select 1st gear, it'll lock the trans in 1st gear because there isn't a lower gear for it to shift to. It essentially gives the tundra an overdrive off button while also having sequential shifting.

(this is how it was described to me from my boss at our mechanic shop, hes been working for 30 years so I hope he has a lick of intelligence)

 

Also, maybe Valvoline or Mobile 1 or another company makes an anti slip additive to transmission fluid that you could try out for starters, along with the fluid change

 

Yes, definitely will go for an oil change first... TSB stated that first before replacing the trans... but will add anti slip additive to the trans to see for a difference... I'm hoping this will help, but if all else fails, I guess I'll have to make a decision between replacing the truck or replacing the transmission, or having it rebuilt... I've looked up a few vids that appear to be bushings being worn down, but I wont know until I pay someone for a teardown..

and for the manumatic, yes I understand it that way as well... I know it wont stay in any shift except for 1st... It makes it easier to explain... I will hit up Toyota corporate referencing the TSB, I doubt it'll be covered, but its worth a shot.....

 

Good luck man! I hope for the best!!

 

Thanks

 

Ran a full diagnostics and found a 2nd code buried.. p2714 predsure control solenoid D performance or stuck off....

 

Ah, so looks like that might be where your problem lies...

 

So, I haven't done shit the last few days.. I have parts on order, a strainer, strainer gasket and oil pan gasket.. had to use the slower more expensive dealer, cuz I fucked myself from the one I liked...
I have driven it about 20 miles around town as I need it and have not had any issues.. it engages immediately and shifts perfectly.. I'm waiting on parts to do an oil change and a full flush, got 15 quarts ready to go.. will update once I'm done.

 

Finally got around to doing a drain and fill, and it was dark AF, but gladly didn't smell burnt... smelled like ol gear oil... shifts smooth like butter..... plus found a leak.. not sure how long do I have..... my water pump is leaking... that's totally new....
Mind the belt... it's my 5th

 

so all your transmission problems have been fixed?

 

It appears to be that way.. I was reading a thread on performance stuck code along with a drain and fill... and apparently it is due to low or high transmission fluid. Eitherway i noticed jumpy shifts between 1 and 2 along with some hanging after the drain and fill it has been smooth as ice so far.

 

Hope you are out of the woods for sure.

Did you use a friction modifier or just drain and fill?

 

Just drain and fill...
Next week I'm dropping the oil pan, strainer and checking out the insides. Next time I will be using the friction modifier since I did purchase a bottle and its hanging out with the other ATF fluid and parts.

 

sounds good, glad that fixed your problems!

 

Be aware that most of the pan bolts go up and through the pan and stick out the back. They are a bitch to get out because you'll be pulling rust through with them. I have dropped the transmission pan and cleaned/replaced the filter on every single used car I've ever bought except the Tundra, as it just doesn't seem worth it!

 

Just did this today. Hope it works.

 

Cool... I'm having other issues, hoping it's not transmission related at this point...

 

I am having the same codes come up on my 2010 Sequoia. Did changing the transmission fluid ultimately fix the issues you were having?

 

I only did the 4qt transmission fluid exchange and has been good since. I've since moved 400+ miles, made multiple trips to and from NorCal, even towed 2 cars and a few loaded up small 6x12 u-haul trailers. What I would advise you, since I was having other issues at the time, would be to check that bypass hose from the intake manifold to the throttle body. If that hose is cracked, you might as well replace it along with your drain and fill, you will require a throttle body gasket. The only 2 codes I've had since then were the C1201 code, maybe due to my front rotors seizing up and a performance D stuck off, don't remember the code. I do believe I need to replace the solenoid in the transmission. All transmission codes are off but has been shifting super smooth like butter. I do believe the rough shifts were due to that hose, cuz it was super rough 1st to 2nd, would cause hesitation, assuming the gaping hole was messing with the computer's pressure sensor and messing with the transmission's equalizing the pressure for shifting properly.

 

Got it. Thanks for that insight. I will change the transmission fluid and check that hose. Hopefully that fixes the issue for me. I appreciate the help.