What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

No, I was just doing it to replace the gasket I didn't replace last time I had it off.

 

Whats the metal piece between the vc and cam pulley cover, that might be where the leak is? Ill get a gasket for that, too if there is one. But i can run a fine bead of rtv.

 

I got what you need homie.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/intake-manifold-and-valve-cover-gaskets.37347/

 

Took the 04 to work with me, gave er the good ol look over. List of parts ordered.

new Lower ball joints (torn boots)
Trans pan gasket (leaking)
T-belt w/p and cam seals
Valve cover gaskets + tube seals
Spark plugs
Right front axle seal.


The rear diff seems to be making some noise. MAY need a diff. But I’m going to see what the fluid looks like and see if changing the fluid helps. If not I’ve got a spare LSD rear end I’ll have rebuilt for it.

so ~500 in parts and it’ll be up to date.

at a later date bilstein 4600s will be installed and it’s staying stock.

exhaust may also need attention in the near future.
But 4x4 works and all is well for the most part. Just fixing the little almost 20 year old truck things

 

Good color!

Uncles/Dads truck, or did I miss your purchase post?

 

Uncles new truck. I’ll be the care taker though. LOL.

2004 4.7 sr5 with 120k miles



I still can’t believe how much less power it has compared to mine.. weight wise mine with the cap should be almost identical weight

 

I’ve got random LEDs laying around from work, think I’ll hook him up with LED cargo lights and the door lights for now

 

2004 is before VVTI? (your truck has?)

 

Yup. And the 4 speed


Already determined if the 4 speed acts up it’ll get the 5 speed swapped in and a 4runner ECU wired in.
4runbers v8s had the 5 speed without the vvti. Literally made no sense.. the whole 4th gen 4runner didn’t. It towed more than the sequoia. For cheaper. LOL

 

LMAO

 

Today I finished my steering column. It’s a good feeling. Changed out the steering column seal... original rubber was basically all gone and super stuck. I hammered then eventually cut it...


Changed out the old steering column. The key fell off as soon as I took the strap off. Even the simi weld/solder wasn’t doing anything. Replaced the key switch, changed out the broken clock spring from the “new” column I ordered from Car-Parts with the one in my broken column and thanks to @Lil Steve, I realized I was just overthinking the rotation of the steering wheel. I was worried I would rip the clock spring cause the steering wheel rotates 3 times + each direction with one side turning about half a turn more when not connected. When lil Steve said it’s less than 2 rotations connected it hit me the clock spring won’t break. Out with the old/broken..


In with the new


Appreciate the guidance along the way all!

 

I changed all the bushings in the leaf springs and the bushings in the shackles. The lower bolt in each shackle was basically welded to the metal inner sleeves of the old shackle bushings. I was able to remove the nuts and washers from the bolts but was unable to drive the bolts out. I had to grind the bolt heads and ends off then countersink each end about 1/8" to remove the shackle from the hanger. I replaced all 12 bushings (8 for leafs, 4 for shackles) with Dayton RB-260 bushing. And replaced the two lower shackle bolts with Husky Spring SHB14110, all from RockAuto.

 

Nice, I didn’t know we could do this. Shackle bushings on my to do list now.

 

When I pulled my valve covers everything inside was still shiny silver without all of that brown oil discoloration. What kind of oil do you use?

 

Always assumed that brown/golden was conventional oil.

You run synthetic in yours?

 

I do

 

Give this a listen for your choice of words...
https://youtu.be/133euzRty74

32 seconds of your life.

 

Have a buddy in Ringgold

 

That's conventional probably 300k out of the 320k on it. I switched it to high mileage syn since I got it. The good thing is there's no build up or gunk anywhere.

 

Well, can't argue with 300k miles of success. Discoloration or not.

 

@Voss were you able to get your steering wheel to line back up with the rack below? Meaning, is the wheel straight when you are going straight?

 

I’m still a little off on this, like 1/8 of turn from my original marking. Haven’t noticed any issues while driving tho. I’ll get it dialed in over weekend

 

You changed out the seal from below rather than from inside the cab, right? Everyone is saying it can’t be done from inside, so I’m just double checking.

 

Yes from below. Push down on it from inside the cab. Mine was super stuck tho so I cut it and bashed the sides in a little to break it free.

 

You can push it down, but it can only be pushed back into place from below.

 

Really got to love that VVTi. I drove my buddies 2000 and thought the same thing. I've got a 4wd access cab with a camper and like 300lbs in the bed at all times and I'm still faster than his 2wd with an empty bed and no topper.

Fun fact about these 4.7s. I talked to Keith at DirtyDeeds and he said exhaust pipe diameter really shouldn't be changed on our trucks (especially the 05-06 w/ VVTi). Increased pipe diameter will take a lot of low end away from these engines for some reason. I'm living proof of this. I may or may not have ordered an exhaust from him the other week
He also said Toyota uses 2 3/8" pipe for the tailpipe which you can't find anywhere else. 2 1/4" takes a lot from the top end and 2 1/2" takes a little from the bottom end, but not nearly as bad as 3" like what I have for my cat back.

 

I finished working on the differential last night and was able to slap it back in.
The pattern is much better. It's more in the center and off the toe. This is a bad pic, but it's way better than it was.
I spent a lot of time cleaning the threads on the pinion gear. The shop that had it last hammered the hell out of the threads with the pinion nut. It took a lot of tedious filing and I even had to use valve grinding compound to polish up the threads.
The larger pinion bearing race took and incredible amount of force to press off and it wouldn't have ever moved without heat. You can see how burnt the old race is in this pic from the torch I had to use. I was as careful as possible to minimize the heat that was put into the ring gear itself.
The backlash was 3 thousandths before, but now it's 8. The Toyota spec says 5.1-7.1, but that's as close as I could get it. I'd rather it be on the loose side though.
The starting torque on the companion flange to get the pinion gear to spin was about 20 inlbs before on old bearings and now it is about 11 with the new bearings. I think the spec for new bearings was like 11-16 inlbs.

There is no whine or noise at all now in the differential when I drive. I am very glad I was able to get it done without that shop.

 

Im skeptical. Maybe it throws the o2 sensors out of range? Or are running 180* headers, but ive never seen cat backs do anything, but make noise.


that extra lip in the end of my sequoias exhaust tricks sensors into making the trans more reluctant to downshift on hills by putting a little more heat into the o2 sensors by changing the pressure wave.

i did some testing with pipe size and ‘restrictor’ size on my blazer, and 90hp (when new) 2.5l four cylinder was happy with a 2-1/4” pipe and a 2” restrictor, and gave noticable 50mph-70mph time differences. The bit on the sequoia is part of the coffee cup im using for my jeep exhaust, but i can hold speed climbing hills deeper into the powerband, but havent done any timed testing with it. Just wedged it in and said good enough.

granted, im also running a restrictor on the intake of the blazer, to mess with the manifold vacuum sensor, and have the intake air temp sensor fooled.

 

Going with too big of diameter will slow down exhaust scavenging. Your exhaust pulses will slow down and "run into each other" for lack of better wording. Going too small will restrict the flow. You have to find a good balance.

That said the difference between 2.5 and 2 3/8 I would give people the pepsi challenge and bet you don't feel a change.

As far as cat back designs, 2 pipes into 1 or true duals with an H pipe or true duals with an X pipe will give different low end and high end numbers. The gain in my opinion isn't worth the cost unless you fab it yourself for fun. The piping and hangers for a full setup can be had around $250, I would do it for sound preference more than expectations of horsepower.

 

Log manifolds and shorty headers dont really scavenge like real headers do.

x and h pipes definitely change the powerband, but if your running cats, its not changing much.