2007 Tundra 2wd Not starting, dashboard dead, obd2 won't connect

I am not sure if this is proper forum etiquette, so I apologize up front. I am experiencing a seemingly major issue with my truck and after tons of research I can't seem to find a clear answer.

Last year I had a couple of occasions when the radio would go out and the clock...center console. If it was in park I could not get it to go into gear...this happened a few times and eventually went away. I basically just kept cycling the ignition and in starting it up until the clock came on and it was fine.

Lately I had noticed that the radio would stop working while driving, the clock was flashing erratically and usually would come back on after restarting the engine.

Then I parked at a picnic area and got back in to it not being able to start at all.

The interior lights work fine, the horn blows, the headlights work.

The ONLY light that comes on the dashboard is the "door open" light. NOTHING else.

The door open alarm is sounding.

The radio does not work.

The windows will not rollup/down.

Cannot put it into gear without overriding manually.

When key goes into start...no click no sound...

I didnt suspect the battery because I could get certain things to operate, and tried to boost it...without any change to the above.

I tried touching the pos/neg cables together for a few minutes... hooked back up and no change.

Did have a 40A Sub Batt fuse that was blown...changed it but nothing. This was the only thing I found blown and tried swapping the starter relay out with one of the other relays that matched...and nothing changed.

The door can be locked with the Key fob.

I am taking the battery to have it tested today and am going to change out my terminal connectors and check my frame ground.

Any other ideas or is there something simple that I missed???

 

Any signs of rodent damage and chewed wires?

 

Not that I can see. I've checked everything that I can without removing the fuse box itself. No debris or evidence anything has been in the engine compartment.

 

I took the battery that was in it to O'Reilly, he said "It won't even test..."

So I bought a new battery...put it in and replaced the negative post with a new one just to make sure its grounding good...cleaned the ground on the frame and replaced it next to the battery.

Same problem.

 

Definitely sounds like an electrical short. Tell us more about the sub/aftermarket radio install situation. If you blew a fuse I would start there and then look for other damage to the electrical system. Look for any signs of burning or heat or wierd burning smells when opening the covers.

 

Nothing aftermarket, except for a brake controller that was installed already when I bought the truck in 2016.

I did pull a travel trailer last Tues around 60 miles. This issue occurred on Saturday, however, these little glitches with the shifter and radio have been going on prior to that and I used to have a different trailer that we pulled all the time...no issues.

However. the 40A fuse that was blown "SUB BATT" is for trailer towing?

https://www.autogenius.info/toyota-tundra-2007-2008-fuse-box-diagram/

So not sure if that would have any bearing on my current situation...I did replace that fuse and still have the problem.

 

I’ll be honest with you. Electrical is not for the faint of heart. Had similar problems with my 2010. I did everything in my power. Took it to two local shops. No clue. Eventually gave up and took it to the closest trusted dealer. Bad ground in the driver side door. 2hrs of labor and that’s it.

 

Sounds like u tried every obvious thing,
I would head to toyota next.
Will probably cost u a couple of $ but u will keep ur sanity.

 

I’m suspect of that sub 40 amp fuse. What caused that and what got cooked possibly because of it. I had a truck that did not like to be hooked up to the trailer while the engine was running. Would blow a fuse on the tail lamps every time.

 

On the diagram posted above...there is a fuse in the fusible link "61" that shows it is responsible for:

“AM1”, “TAIL”, “PANEL”, “ACC”, “CIG”, “LH−IG”, “4WD”, “ECU−IG NO.1”, “BK/UP LP”, “SEAT−HTR”, “A/C IG”, “ECU−IG NO.2”, “WSH”, “WIPER”, “OBD”, “A/C”, “TI&TE”, “FR P/SEAT RH”, “MIR”, “DR/LCK”, “FR P/SEAT LH”, “CARGO LP”, “PWR OUTLET”, “POWER NO.1” fuses

This seems to be the majority of all the components that aren't working.

How can I visibly tell if this is bad? or test to see if this could be the cause?

 

Honestly this sounds like a bad ground probably underneath the dash / kick panel driver side. The resetting of components while driving means its jiggling or an exposed wire is making contact with something.... I've had my fair share of electrical issues, but would say this would be an issue. You may change the fuse and find your issue, but if not check grounds...

I have an aftermarket in-dash monitor headunit in my other car, and I wanted to have my kids watch a movie while driving which I know, its illegal.. eitherway I found the ground was in my ebrake so I removed it and placed it elsewhere. That ground got loose and while driving it cut my radio out and would make my clock go into techno mode as it would flash... couldn't figure it out till I pulled the head unit and noticed the loose screw. I tightened it back up and it was all gone and good to go.. its probably not a dead fuse since it may just take a group of things with it. Unless it specified like fog lights. Hope this helps some.

 

I did put a set of LED lights in the interior lights last month. Forgot to mention that. However they are working fine it's just the above mentioned things.

I tested the windows won't roll up or done but the door lock will function on the door and the power seats...so I think that may rule out my main fuse theory since those are on that same fuse if I read that diagram above correctly.

 

Forgot, lol windows may be unrelated to your issue, Windows may be a TSB that you haven't done... the early models had issues with the window switch.. mine was replaced for free99 with TSB in hand about 4 years ago..... I suggest you look it up, verify and take it in for a new switch and get your windows back.

 

I pulled the 30A fuse to the windows to see if that helped but did nothing.

What about the transponder in the key or the immobilizer system?

If the key is not registering it would act similarly correct? The red key light does go off when I put the key in however...

Is there a way to disable the immobilizer system or bypass it somehow to test this theory?

 

I think you need a multimeter or a 12v test light. If you blew a 40 amp fuse something shorted to ground and drew a lot of power. There's a chance that something else also blew somewhere. This where a test light or multimeter is needed. Would you know how to use one? If not I think you are getting in a little over your head.

 

I do have a multi meter and I know how to use it. I also have a basic understanding of electrical systems.

I am not sure where to look. Since the blown fuse is somehow related to the trailer towing system. Any recommendations on where I should look?

 

Blowing the 40A fuse would worry me - that probably cooked something else along the chain. Personally, I would have a professional troubleshoot it as it would take a lot of time, effort and possibly money trying to track down the culprit. Having the experienced professional run diagnostics and find out the issue (and then explain to me) would be worth the money spent in my opinion.

 

Immobilizer issues will still allow the engine to crank, just not start / run.

The 40A Sub Batt fuse you found blown is for the trailer charge circuit, either for a trailer breakaway battery, or RV batteries. Running a two or three-way RV fridge on 12V for any length of time while connected to the truck can exceed 40amp draw, and blow that fuse. It is not likely related to any of the no start / no power symptoms you’re getting though.

 

I would start by checking each fuse. That 40 amp circuit should have a relay in it so the power only comes on when the key is in the ON position. The fuse that controls that relay should be one of the "ECU" or "IG" fuses. If somehow you damaged the sub batt relay you could have blown that fuse too. You can visually look at the fuses but I like to use a multi-meter on any that look questionable.