New Tires / Suspension - Pulls To The Right

Hey everyone,

I got my new 2.5 Icons installed front and back along with some Falken Wildpeaks 285/75R18 and the truck rides and looks amazing, except it pulls to the right a bit. The shop I took it to are really good and they do a ton of work at their own expense / don’t charge for it. I need to take it back to them, but I was wondering if anyone can spot an issue as why it pulls, quite noticeably, to the right with the alignment specs pictured here? I hope it might save the fellas at the shop a bit of their time.

Thanks everyone.

 

I suck at reading alignments but different tires have different driving characteristics. AT and mud tires have a tendency to pull one way or the other even with a perfect alignment. It depends on the tread pattern

 

Swap front tires side to side, does it pull left then?

 

I hadn’t considered that. These are my first AT tires. Truck goes back to the shop this week for another look.

 

I’ll ask the shop about that. Unfortunately my jack and axle stands likely aren’t tall enough anymore to do this myself. An excuse to buy some new tools

 

Side note,
Looking at your spec sheet there is no caster value, it shows ---....wonder why?

Vehicle will pull to the side with least positive caster.

Road crown naturally slopes right.

Most times some additional + caster is added to the right side to accommodate for that.

 

Lots of threads about proven alignment specs for these trucks and many with a right pull.

This thread on a different forum seems to be the standard.

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...-links-and-shop-recommendations.112656/page-2

Alignment specs aside, seems everyone points towards swapping around to see if it is a bad tire.

Good luck

 

I had a chat with the owner of the shop and he stated they try and avoid messing with the caster unless necessary like if the vehicle was in an accident, otherwise they try and stick with factory castor. He said they’ll take a look at this week and will adjust caster if needed.

 

Ok so my follow-up is....what's the caster set to now? Factory caster has a range, just like toe and camber...which you gave me values for. So what are my caster values.

That's just me

Circling back to your original question of asking if someone could point out why it pulls right based off values. Without caster values, no one can begin to guess.

 

That’s true - I’ll ask them about the castor measurements when I go back in. I’ll likely get another printout and I’ll post that as an update. Hopefully it’ll solve it pulling to the right. They did a lot of trimming to get the new tires to fit and it looks good and clean - I would have hacked it up if I did it myself, but the driver side wheel still lightly makes contact on the rear mudguard bulge when cranked left in forwards, maybe some castor adjustment can solve for that too.

 

35s (with the proper wheel offset and alignment) really should not require a whole lot trimming due to contact issues more so with your aspect ratio. I run 12.5 wides issue free compared to your 11"/11.5"

 

Yeah, I think my offset may not be enough. I’ve read that folks running the OEM rims with +60 have a harder time with contact. Can’t remember the channel on youtube, but this does a solid explanation of lifts, offsets, bumpers for running 35s. He said the sweet spot is between 0 and +12 for offset and the further away you get from that range, the more trimming. I’m at +30, but they’re cheap American Racing rims I originally used as winter rims, but kept them because I liked the looks. Probably will look at better rims in kind of soon.

 

+25mm is the ideal offset

On a +60mm stock wheel, IIRC, a 1" spacer will get you there.

*edit - 1.25in = about 32mm so with 60mm stock you'll be at 28mm

I'm running +50mm 17x8 35x12.5 fwiw

 

Yeah, when I bought all the suspension, Icon was recommending their +25 offset rims, but in R17. They make the same rim in R18 so I may go that route.

 

Those alignment numbers look awful to me. Did you also get icon uca? There are a lot of threads about alignment issues with them. Some of the threads have specs it should be in.

I have icon 2.5” coil overs set about 2 1/2” lift and icon tubular uca. Here’s my last alignment numbers. I have bump steer but it drives straight. It did take 4 alignments before it felt right.

I would go back and ask for a real alignment with caster. Or just count this as a loss and go somewhere else based on what they have already told you. They don’t sound like they knew what they were doing.

 

@timsp8

His toe looks good, agree camber could be better.

I think it was MY18 or MY19 that Toyota changed to specs to be little closer to .14 cross.

My tires seem to wear best with cross at .14

 

We're all pissing in the wind w/no caster numbers. As was said, caster is pretty damn important when doing an alignment.

 

Hey everyone,

thanks for the input. The shop that installed everything took the truck back and played around with the castor this time. They had to redo the alignment and test drive it 4 times to get it right. I don’t have a print out of their work on the return visit, but it no longer pulls to the right and instead it drives nice and straight.
I still have a bit of rubbing on the plastic mudguard behind the passenger tire, but it only happens when the wheel is cranked to the left and only in reverse. I have to get some fender flares though since the new tires fling rocks and stuff up the sides - removing the mudguards for fender flares should fix the little bit of rubbing that happens. I love the upgrade so far.