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RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by RainMan_PNW, Oct 30, 2020.

  1. Mar 27, 2021 at 3:42 PM
    #301
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Couple pictures of what I see in the mirrors. The upper passenger one is not magnified, but both lower ones are.
    upload_2021-3-27_15-41-7.jpg

    upload_2021-3-27_15-41-52.jpg
     
  2. Mar 27, 2021 at 4:00 PM
    #302
    Yzed608

    Yzed608 New Member

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    Thanks for the photos! Do the uppers still work with the adjuster switches in cab? The lowers themselves almost show more than both the upper and lowers on the OEM tow mirrors combined imo!
     
  3. Mar 27, 2021 at 4:10 PM
    #303
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Yes, power adjust on the upper glass. I have defrost in both upper and lower glass. And yes, they do show a lot of the road, and I actually see almost my entire tire too - I have the lower adjusted up as high as it will go and have just a bit of overlap in the cut-off between the upper and the lower. Very happy with them.
     
    Yzed608[QUOTED] likes this.
  4. Apr 3, 2021 at 11:01 PM
    #304
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
  5. Apr 3, 2021 at 11:06 PM
    #305
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Also updated my Toyomafia JDM sticker to the Lunar Rock edition...along with an extremely rare patch and sticker.
    upload_2021-4-3_23-4-8.jpg

    upload_2021-4-3_23-5-32.jpg
     
    Patch999, Jpd0144 and Yzed608 like this.
  6. Apr 3, 2021 at 11:09 PM
    #306
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    I also found a Techstream cable with firmware v2.0.4 on it (the price has gone up since I bought it). I’ve confirmed it has v2.0.4 firmware, and that it connects and functions correctly with OLDER version of Techstream that I currently have set up. Now I need to get the newer version of Techstream set up and confirm it will work.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BCL3DFR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8
     
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  7. Apr 4, 2021 at 5:50 AM
    #307
    Piki

    Piki New Member

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    I bought this one last week. it was only 85$.
    Working well with my 2017 Tundra and 2018 GX460
     
  8. Apr 4, 2021 at 7:06 AM
    #308
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    What version of TS are you using with it? I paid $85 as well. I can remember back with my 2008 I tried to upgrade TS to a certain version (12 maybe?) and the v1.4 cable I had stopped working so I had to roll back to version 10.
     
  9. Apr 4, 2021 at 3:18 PM
    #309
    Piki

    Piki New Member

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    I have Ver 12.20.024
     
    RainMan_PNW[OP] likes this.
  10. Apr 18, 2021 at 8:23 AM
    #310
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    This weekend I finally got the BSM/RCTA fully installed.

    Update 12/13/22 - I've added factory parking sonar as well, and that has revised some of the pin-out and wiring harness information I currently have in the truck. See this post for those details. The wiring information below is still pertinent if you are ONLY adding BSM and want to go the easiest route.

    This will be a long post, and I’m going to probably edit it a few times to get everything captured, but here goes:

    First off, the TRD Pro I bought is based off of the Limited trim - which is one of the reasons I waited until 2020/2021 to buy a Pro. It has the Auto AC controls, heated seats, moonroof, leather power seats, “premium audio” (for what that’s worth :rolleyes:). But, for some reason, even though they based it off the Limited trim, they still cut out some of the things that I guess are “optional” on a Limited but really shouldn’t be. And one of those is the BSM setup. And when I saw that the Canadian TRD Pro did have it, that got me thinking...and as I was working on some other mods I saw signs that it might not be too complicated to add them.

    Of course, I didn’t have mirrors with the BSM lights, so I didn’t think too seriously about it until I started shopping for tow mirrors. Ultimately, I bought the Boost Auto tow mirrors and ordered them with the BSM lights in them, so now I HAD to actually add the BSM sensors and wiring...

    So it was time to really start digging into the wiring diagrams first. It just so happens, I know of a post on here that has them. :cool: From the wiring diagrams, I had to start chasing down what WAS and what WAS NOT already in place in the truck. As it turns out, there are only a few interior wiring harnesses made, and in the TRD Pro, I was able to determine that all of the wiring in the cab was present for the BSM system. Another bonus was that the BSM system runs through the main ECU (where the sonar parking sensors have a separate ECU - which is part of the reason I did not bother with attempting to add those).

    When I had the door panels off to install my tow mirrors, I was also able to confirm that I had the wiring in the door panels all the way to the connector for the mirror that would power the BSM, so that was all good as well. So then I had to start looking at the body wiring...and that’s where the work came in. There are a couple of different main body wiring harnesses, and the one in the TRD Pro does NOT have any wiring for the BSM or parking sensors. Additionally, there are a couple of “Body 2” wiring harnesses (the one in the rear bumper), and again the TRD Pro has the one that does not have any wiring for the BSM or sensors. The main harness would be a couple thousand $ and require a full removal/reinstall of the body harness (no small feat without pulling the truck apart), so I needed to go to Plan B there. And the bumper harness, while about $170, would include wiring and connectors for the parking sensors that I didn’t care about.

    Ultimately, I decided I would make up my own second wiring harness for inside the bumper, and then connect it to another new wiring harness running down the body to connect into the connector in the engine bay that then runs into the cab and hooks up to everything that was already wired. That decision was followed by MANY nights of checking/confirming connectors, pinnings, and planning out what connectors and terminals and other parts to buy to put it all together. I also made up a custom EWD for the actual routing I was going to do (it differs from the factory slightly only in the fact that I ran all of the body harness wiring to a single connector for the BSM, instead of splitting it across two connectors the way the original harness does.

    I’ll attach the custom EWD to this thread when I’m all done, as well as the custom details for all of the connectors that were involved and what the final wiring was at each of those connectors.

    Parts needed:
    • QTY 2 - 88162-0C051 BSM Radar/sensor (I sourced mine off ebay)
    • QTY 1 - 88171-0C010 BSM mount bracket left
    • QTY 1 - 88161-0C010 BSM mount bracket right
    • QTY 1 - 89747-02010 RCTA buzzer
    • QTY 12 - 90182-A0022 flange nut (go to the hardware store and buy M6x1.0 flange nuts for these)
    • Mirrors of your choice with BSM lights in them
    • QTY 2 - 90980-12380 female 10-way sealed connectors w/ terminals (buy them direct from Corsa Technic here) - use the terminal size for 20AWG wire
    • QTY 1 90980-10891 female 8-way sealed connector w/ terminals (buy from Corsa Technic) - use terminal size for whatever wire you choose to run the length of the truck (I did 18AWG).
    • QTY 1 90980-10890 male 8-way sealed connector w/ terminals (buy from Corsa Technic) - I used 20AWG wire to match what I used in the bumper wire harness
    • 20AWG 2-conductor twisted/shielded wire for the CANBUS wiring - I ordered this stuff (overkill) from Corsa Technic. I bought 20 feet, but used maybe 6 feet of it.
    • Extra seal plugs for the above 10-way terminals to fill in the unused ports
    • 82998-24290 female unsealed 0.64 II terminals for inside the engine bay
    • 82998-12590 female sealed 2.3 II terminals for the CANBUS junction connector at the rear wiring harness
    • Tons of zip ties
    • ~20 ft of 3/8" wire loom tube
    • plenty of 20AWG and 18AWG stranded wire in various colors
    The first step was getting the actual sensors installed. You have to have resin bumper covers for this (which the Pros have)...the chrome end caps would interfere with the radar.

    Drop the spare tire to give yourself room to work. Pull off the top cap on the bumper corners. Start at the leading edge and most of the clips will pop except the two that are next to the main bumper cap. Those you’ll need to carefully work with a screwdriver from underneath while also lifting from above (a helper makes this easier).
    upload_2021-4-18_10-6-48.jpg

    Next, off comes the main bumper cap. Pull your license plate and there is a plastic clip behind that to remove. Then get up under the truck and push in the clips on the trailer plug to push it through to the outside of the bumper, followed by removing the plug from it. Remove the license plate bulbs from their sockets.
    upload_2021-4-18_10-14-4.jpg

    Then there are two more plastic clips at the bottom to remove, and then a bunch of tabs that require some prying from underneath and lifting from above to get it free.
    upload_2021-4-18_10-15-32.jpg

    Next is getting the end caps off...or mostly off. You’ll find that the leading edge uses some one-way serrated clips along the front edge that are impossible to actually reach to release without fully removing the bumper, so I left them in place and just “flexed” things carefully out of my way.
    upload_2021-4-18_10-17-9.jpg

    Remove all of the other clips on the bumper caps and they will mostly be out of your way (though it’s still a tight fit) to get your hands in there.upload_2021-4-18_10-18-30.jpg

    I assembled the BSM sensors onto the mounting brackets first, using three of the flange nuts on each bracket.
    upload_2021-4-18_10-19-32.jpg

    Then, working from underneath, get the bracket onto the threaded studs that are on the bumper frame and get the other three nuts in place and tighted up.
    upload_2021-4-18_10-20-32.jpg

    Next we turn our attention to the wiring harness in the rear bumper. The two BSM sensors are connected to each other via a set of twisted CANBUS wires, and then have individual wires that feed back to the engine bay.

    I built the LH (driver's side) connector first, which is S5 on the EWD. The twisted pair wires need to be long enough to reach the other end of the bumper to catch the RH monitor, while the other wires need to reach the right-side frame rail where all the other connectors are clustered already.
    upload_2021-4-18_16-8-45.jpg
    upload_2021-4-18_16-25-27.jpg

    I loomed up the wires and started routing it through the bumper just to get a more accurate final length. Zip-tie the loom to the hole on the bracket as you turn up and then into the frame of the bumper.
    upload_2021-4-18_17-6-21.jpg

    upload_2021-4-18_17-7-40.jpg

    I also prepped the RH connector (S6) except for the two CANBUS wires from the LH connector (to start), and then rough-routed those twisted wires over to get a length on them before terminating them in the S6 connector.
    upload_2021-4-18_16-12-0.jpg

    I then figured out the final loom length, trimmed it, and tucked the wires into it and wrapped it back towards the point that the harness would turn toward the connector to go up in the truck frame.
    upload_2021-4-18_17-16-55.jpg

    Once the routing through the bumper was all finalized, I was able to then terminate the male side of the SR2 connector that I used for the junction at the rear of the frame (the right side half of the connector image).
    upload_2021-4-18_16-15-19.jpg
    upload_2021-4-18_17-10-37.jpg

    Follow this up by final wrapping the wire loom, getting it all zip-tied into place (to the existing wire harness where possible), and then proceed to put the bumper back together.
    upload_2021-4-18_17-20-40.jpg
    (Picture is from starting to install the body harness wiring, but shows where the rest of the bumper harness ended up).

    With the sensors installed and the bumper harness done and all that buttoned back up, the next step is getting that all routed through the frame up to the engine bay.
    I started out by making up the other side of the SR2 junction with full spools of wire so I could run them out to the actual length needed once up in position. Yes, my workbench is a hot mess...
    upload_2021-4-18_17-30-5.jpg

    When routing from the male side of SR2 (body/frame side of the junction), there are a couple of wires that don’t go all the way to the engine bay. One of them is the common ground for the BSM sensors (white for me), which routes to a local ground point on the frame above the spare tire (the main harness grounds here as well).
    upload_2021-4-18_17-47-11.jpg

    The other are the two CANBUS wires (green and gray, twisted for me), which terminate at a junction connector called R17. This is a regular looking connector, but the “male” side is actually a jumper/junction terminal block where the four left pins are all one common jumper, and the four right pins are all a separate common jumper. In this case, the various CANBUS functions from the rear of the truck jumper here to send signals back to the ECU.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-6-58.jpg
    upload_2021-4-18_17-44-6.jpg

    Next, I plugged in the connector and strung out wire to make sure I had enough to get to the junction box inside the engine compartment (passenger side near the firewall).
    upload_2021-4-18_17-48-17.jpg

    upload_2021-4-18_17-49-38.jpg

    Then start looming up the wires, making sure to split off the two CANBUS wires and terminate them in R17.
    upload_2021-4-18_17-57-12.jpg

    Terminate the ground on R1 and then tuck everything up nice and tidy above the spare tire mount before continuing to run the new harness along the existing harness to the front of the truck.
    upload_2021-4-18_17-59-8.jpg

    For routing the loom, I followed the existing main harness and the two harnesses I had previously added for the tailgate lock and bed lights. Zip tie things together every 8” or so along the entire route. Jack Jack Badoo was “helping” the best he knew how...
    upload_2021-4-18_18-1-4.jpg

    When you get up to the front cab mount, you want to fish the harness up along the high side of the existing harness where it passes through the passenger fender well. I added extra zip ties here to keep it secure.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-2-21.jpg

    Then follow the harness up into the engine bay and get ready for part three... You can also put the spare tire back now if you are confident in your connector and terminal crimping skills...you’re done under the truck at this point.

    Part three is actually terminating into the RA6 connector in the passenger engine bay junction box. This isn't the easiest place to work...and I realized once I got in there that the terminals I needed to hit were all the smaller size ones that are made for 20-24AWG wire and I had run 18AWG in the new harness.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-9-4.jpg
    upload_2021-4-18_18-22-38.jpg

    So, I grabbed my 20AWG wire and made up some same-colored pigtails about 6" long with the right terminals in them and got those all plugged into the female connector. Then I needed to strip, solder, and heat shrink those pigtails to the main wires I had routed from the rear of the truck.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-26-15.jpg

    I had bought a "fourth hand" setup off Amazon that consists of a metal plate and some aligator clips on long arms that are magnetic, along with an add-on magnifying glass with a light (face it - at 44 I'm starting to realize I need glasses). These conveniently mounted to the truck body inside the engine bay so I could steady the wiring for soldering.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-28-6.jpg

    Once everything was soldered and heat shrinked, I tucked it up neat, plugged in all the connectors, and covered up the junction box again.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-29-18.jpg

    On to the very last step - the RCTA buzzer. This is located in the "C pillar" on the driver side. And at this point, it was also getting dark on me.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-30-26.jpg upload_2021-4-18_18-30-50.jpg

    First pull the weather stripping along the rear side of the drivers rear door. Then, you can pop the plastic lower trim toward you to dis-engage it from the two white clips that hold it in place (it will remain locked in place at the bottom by the seatbelt). Peaking inside, you'll see a black connector with a green and blue wire - that is for the buzzer.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-32-56.jpg

    Working like a contortionist, get the buzzer mounted in the small oval hole you'll see near that connector, and then plug the connector into the buzzer.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-34-57.jpg

    Then re-connect the trim to the clips and reinstall the weather seal.

    Next, jump in the driver's seat and fire up the truck. Right away, the BSM and RCTA lights showed up on my instrument cluster.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-36-53.jpg

    I then went into the instrument cluster menu to the setup and checked that BSM and RCTA were turned on. I turned them off, then back on (one at a time). When BSM turned on, both mirror lights lit up for a couple seconds. When I turned on RCTA, the buzzer went off and both mirror lights flashed.
    upload_2021-4-18_18-38-24.jpg

    Mission accomplished! :dancingbacon:

    Check the attachments for the full customized EWD and the excel files of the above connector mappings.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 15, 2023
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  11. Apr 18, 2021 at 4:54 PM
    #311
    Piki

    Piki New Member

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    Great work
     
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  12. Apr 18, 2021 at 5:19 PM
    #312
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Thanks...working on getting the rest of the write up complete!
     
  13. Apr 18, 2021 at 6:42 PM
    #313
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    OK - full write-up is complete above.
    I also got started on prepping/painting my Valhalla Shields under-body skids today.
     
    ToyoMafia and Jmn like this.
  14. Apr 18, 2021 at 6:57 PM
    #314
    Piki

    Piki New Member

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    Very cool stuff. Lots of figuring out went to this project. I’m sure lots of guys will appreciate it.
     
  15. Apr 18, 2021 at 8:01 PM
    #315
    RusPro21

    RusPro21 Pro is gone! But I’m still here.

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    2021 Pro!! Nitto’s Tyger blades, Arc audio!
    Nice write up Casey!! I assume you will be doing a install write up on the plates? I might have missed it. Did you go aluminum or steel?
     
  16. Apr 18, 2021 at 8:49 PM
    #316
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    3/16 steel. I’ve got to coat the top side of the main skid plate still (hopefully tomorrow after work) and then work on install. We’ve got a weather window the first half of this week, but I’ve also got some yard chores I need to do too.
     
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  17. Apr 19, 2021 at 11:43 AM
    #317
    PNW_Husky

    PNW_Husky New Member

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    Casey, this is such a solid in depth write up. For years I have wanted to figure out how to wire up a relay in my Platinum that would automatically fold my power folding mirrors when the truck is put in park, not having to push the button every time.

    I can imagine with the tow mirrors, this could be very desirable. Do you have any interest in figuring this one out?? :D:D
     
  18. Apr 19, 2021 at 11:50 AM
    #318
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Lol... I actually have thought about it. The platinum has an ECU involved that I don’t, but for my truck the mirror switch is powered from ignition instead of battery. So I have to turn the truck back on if I forget to fold them.

    I’m not sure if I’d want them to ALWAYS fold when the power was off.

    I might need to research a little bit more into how the Land Cruiser and Lexus vehicles function.
     
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  19. Apr 19, 2021 at 1:06 PM
    #319
    MoonRock2021

    MoonRock2021 New Member

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    That is awesome. Sure wish I had the tools and know how to do this to mine. When can i drop my truck off? :spending::drunk:
     
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  20. Apr 19, 2021 at 1:16 PM
    #320
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    You round up all the parts, along with a plane ticket, transportation in town, lodging, and meals, and I'll come down and take care of bringing the tools and assisting with the install. :thumbsup::cheers:
     
  21. Apr 20, 2021 at 9:18 AM
    #321
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Valhalla Shields installed - front (transmission) and rear (transfer case) skid plate/catalytic converter theft deterrents.
    Order from https://valhallasshields.com/ or reach out to @Classy63 here on Tundras.

    I also ordered a 5-pack of the Screwd 3/8-16 x 4" security fasteners (the rear of the large plate uses this size fastener).
    https://screwdsecurity.com/collecti...screwd®-machine-screws?variant=32004834033773
    And the necessary special #37 bit for those screws
    https://screwdsecurity.com/collections/all/products/screwd®-bits-keys?variant=32009020309613

    I purchased the 3/16" steel uncoated plates.
    Here is the rear plate on the workbench.
    upload_2021-4-20_9-14-19.jpg

    I hit them with “pearl disc” on my 4” grinder to knock off the surface rust, and then hit all sides with two coats of self-etching primer.
    upload_2021-4-20_9-16-17.jpg

    upload_2021-4-20_9-15-43.jpg

    Then two coats of “underbody coating”
    upload_2021-4-20_9-16-58.jpg

    upload_2021-4-20_9-17-19.jpg

    I’m not gonna lie - alone under the truck on a sloped gravel driveway without a jack - it was a pain in the ass. Not particularly difficult other than lots of grunting, swearing, and contorting my hands into lots of small uncomfortable spaces. I now understand how rodents can fit through insanely small openings by shifting their bones, because I'm pretty sure I did that to get to the nuts during install.

    The plates are solid. They’ll definitely provide some underbody armor for getting out in the woods. They don’t flex or bend (which probably added to the challenge of install a bit). I’m very happy with them.

    My honest opinion on hardware? The security screws are overkill. I installed them for the rear bolts on the transmission skid (front shield) because I bought them before I bought the skid plates. But the crackhead tweaker that wants to steal your cats isn’t running around with a full set of wrenches and sockets (both SAE and metric for my truck, since my front skid is the TRD Pro with metric bolts), and isn’t going to take the time to fuck around getting to the nuts up top to pull the regular hardware off to get the skids off. And his sawzall is gonna fight like hell on the bolt heads if he tries to just cut them off. And he’s not gonna want to spend the time figuring out the right order to pull things off to actually get up there... he’s just gonna shimmy his tweaking ass back out from under your truck and go hit the next one down the street instead. So if I was to do it again, I would just go with the standard hardware.

    Final install
    upload_2021-4-20_9-18-8.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2021
  22. Apr 21, 2021 at 10:11 AM
    #322
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
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    #54134
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    14,884
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    Male
    First Name:
    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Started working on the re-addition of my 12v plug to the rear console.
    I ordered the 3D printed two-hole port plate from @Chelly here on Tundras, and then got to work on finishing it to remove the printer lines from the surface. His plate arrives with a pretty good texture on it already from his build plate, but there was still just a slight amount of striation that I wanted to remove.
    IMG_1812.HEIC.jpg

    First, I wet-sand with some 220 grit on a granite reference plate to knock things down to mostly flat. Then I hit it with two coats of high-build sandable primer, followed by three coats of Dupli-Color Trim and Bumper paint. It looks very textured in the photo, but as it dries it flattens out a bit.
    IMG_1816.HEIC.jpg

    The next step is to remove the back of the center console. Get a trim pry tool stuffed under it in the bottom against the carpet, and pop up and to the rear. It is held in by a couple yellow clips and a few black "guide" tabs. Lay it down on the floor and remove the two clips that hold the wiring harness to the back cover, then unplug your existing socket (I already had the red USB one installed).
    upload_2021-4-22_14-12-23.jpg

    Next, my USB port has a slightly larger body than the stock port, so I used a step drill bit to open it up to the right size for the USB port. This still will depend on the USB port you buy.
    upload_2021-4-22_14-14-2.jpg

    Next, mount the socket and the USB port into the panel, and get the panel mounted up in the rear cover again.
    upload_2021-4-22_14-15-10.jpg

    For this installation, since I am using both ports, I went ahead and used scotchblok connectors to tap the wires for the USB port, and then hooked everything up to power.
    upload_2021-4-22_14-16-25.jpg

    Finally, clip the wire harness back into the cover, and snap the cover into place.
    upload_2021-4-22_14-17-28.jpg

    :drunk:
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2021
  23. Apr 21, 2021 at 5:03 PM
    #323
    Downytide

    Downytide New Member

    Joined:
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    GTA
    Vehicle:
    Lunar Rock with trail boxes
    Casey, have you thought of adding platinum's lower seat? I like those thigh support and been thinking adding them.
     
  24. Apr 21, 2021 at 5:12 PM
    #324
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    Male
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    Clark County, WA
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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I haven’t sat in a platinum to know the difference. I have looked at the whole Platinum/1794 vs Limited wiring with the memory and other functions, but it would be a significant overhaul of cabin and door wiring. There are separate ECUs for the memory system that control everything tied into that system - mirrors, doors, windows. It is essentially its own separate CANBUS system that, near as I can tell, would require you to swap in the entire system complete for any part of it to work. That was my assessment after a few hours chasing down the differences, at which point I didn’t see the value.
    I may look at a seat of the seat jackers at some point, but other than that, the seat suits me just fine.
     
    ToyoMafia likes this.
  25. Apr 21, 2021 at 5:32 PM
    #325
    Downytide

    Downytide New Member

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    GTA
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    Lunar Rock with trail boxes
    Darn, was hoping it would've been near plug and play but oh well, you figure for the Pro being the most expensive trim, they would give it everything.
     
    MoonRock2021 and RainMan_PNW[OP] like this.
  26. Apr 21, 2021 at 5:43 PM
    #326
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Male
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    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Yeah. Or provide a few more package options for interior upgrades like the other mfgrs do.
    But then, it also doesn’t cost $75k+ like some of the other ones
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2021
  27. Apr 21, 2021 at 8:56 PM
    #327
    Yzed608

    Yzed608 New Member

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    Wisconsin
    With no intention on ever adding BSM/RCTA I still read your install post. You sir are very attention-to-detailed and I applaud you for figuring all of that out. I enjoyed reading it, good job!
     
    bulldog93, Dsptundra, RobertD and 2 others like this.
  28. Apr 22, 2021 at 8:03 AM
    #328
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    First Name:
    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Thank you
     
  29. Apr 22, 2021 at 2:22 PM
    #329
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
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    Messages:
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    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    MoonRock2021 likes this.
  30. Apr 24, 2021 at 1:51 PM
    #330
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2020
    Member:
    #54134
    Messages:
    14,884
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Casey
    Clark County, WA
    Vehicle:
    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Picked up some "TRD Pro" license plate frames off ebay...
    Had to install them this afternoon between downpours.

    The rear one fits perfect. The front one I had to stack (4) 1/4" washers as shims under the license plate to make it all stay flat over the factory front bumper bracket.

    upload_2021-4-24_13-52-44.jpg

    upload_2021-4-24_13-54-44.jpg
     
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    GIN•OKUMA likes this.

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