What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Wire harness connector on the trans probably has corrosion

 

I can tinker with this tomorrow.

Unhook battery, and then unplug each connector one by one? Checking for corrosives, and anything amiss with the wiring before the plugs.

I tried to find info on this error code on the FSM, but maybe I wasn't searching the correct key words.

 

Eh battery doesn’t need to be

 

ok.. I don’t know why.. but I love this!

I think I might need it.

 

https://youtu.be/jYNTZhz7yfU

 

Right? I saw it on a youtube where some guy used it for floor mats back in the early 00s and it got me thinking.

 

The Woman had her car into the dealership the other day for an oil change (they do it cheaper than I can...), so I had her pick up an oilfilter and air filter. Today I picked up some Bosch Icon wipers. Iirc, they carry the @Professional Hand Model endorsement.

Tomorrow's project is to do the oil change, grease everything underneath the old girl and install the wiper blades.

 

That’s a 20x9 -12mm offset

 

Who all is using deaver overload 3 leaf springs? Currently have the

$148 hellwig 991 EZ-990 helper spring kit

hellwig 991 helper spring sitting in my garage not installed but due to have 206K miles I may just go this. Plus I’d be able to get rid of my 1 or 1.5” block lift I have in the back I think.

 

Missed a tad...

 

Yanked my 2wd stock 3.9 open diff.



For this 4wd rear that is 4.1 w/LSD.



FYI: 4wd and 2wd have slightly different pinion flange bolt spacing (60 vs 65mm iirc) and the flange needed to be swapped.



I also installed a solid pinion spacer and a new pinion seal, before throwing it all back together.




My fluid of choice for clutch type LSD's is Motul 90pa.

 

Since I've been monitoring my MPGS here I had data points to confirm improvement using oxygen sensor fouler instead of relying solely on butt dyno

Initial data point says 1.41 MPG increase.

I'll take it especially with the trying times coming sooner rather than later...

 

Yeah. Many here have recco’d them. I’m on my first set on the truck and MzPHM Mobile as they were replaced simultaneously. Pretty decent! Not happy about $52 per vehicle replacement cost as I’m used to the Old Sckool Refill Technique where just the rubber insert is swapped for about $3-4 per vehicle (old sckool price). The auto stores don’t offer the Old Sckool Technique anymore. Its Conspiracy!


I’ve researched the Denso Designer Series Blades ($40/pair) which have the insert swap out capability and will buying those next. Will be using Tricos for the refills which are about $7/pair.

 

Don't we have a few members that did a leather wrap on their steering wheel? I need to do this.

 

Nice on the Straight 90 oil find! Looked hard a while back and not success. Asked around with no response but glad its out there. Stoked.

 

All those do is pull the O2 sensor further out of the exhaust stream. If you installed them on the rear sensors, your data is contaminated by another variable as these sensor only monitor cat efficiency and do not impact fuel delivery.

If you installed them on your front sensors (do NOT do this!), you are forcing the engine to run lean - which would show in fuel consumption and power loss. If you did this, check your plugs before you incur any engine damage, like burning or melting a piston.

If your determined to run an engine at it's most efficient, do a full tune and custom map on a dyno.

 

Finally got both my new brake lines in! I don’t wish that tedious job on anyone. Both lines run down to a two port union fitting along the frame rail almost directly under the driver door. One runs across the fire wall to the ABS module and down the LH frame rail. The other runs from a “T” under MC down the LH frame rail.

I had originally thought only one of the lines was leaking, but figured I’ll replace both while I’m working in that area. Glad I did both as I found that they both had pin hole leaks! The line that runs across the fire wall was very weak and snapped as soon as I tried moving it.

Just need to finish bleeding system. Got the rear all done.

 

Nice job. Were these rusting from inside?

 

@Professional Hand Model no not rusting from the inside, all the brackets that support these two lines were completely rusted/broken away as shown below. It allowed the line to move/vibrate and wore the gray paint off overtime I suspect. This bracket is in the LH wheel well. They’re two other brackets after this one that too are broken. Got them coming.

 

Wow - ya that's huge PIA. Last time I did pre-bent lines, it was all on a old 87 extra cab. Did not realize what a puzzle it would be to get all the lines actually under/through the truck.

Has anyone used the nickel-copper lines as replacements? Was thinking of trying these when the next one rusts through.

 

@RustyShackle323 I'm sure working with those hard lines isn't easy. That looks like torture. Nice work.

 

Yes sir, lot of profanity during this project haha. Move and inch, get hung up. Up down up down feeding it through the small opening down the frame.

 

Ok. I suspected as it looked like bracket width rust. I noticed one of my clips was cracked whilst doing the fuel filter job and for bonus I cracked another one myself. Was able to use HD Wide Zip Ties to secure back and alongside the next line properly in the shared tandem clip above.

I’ll be looking out more for these clips scenarios. May end up going new if enough are broken.

 

I am aware that they remove the sensor from the direct flow of exhaust gases, and it was installed on my post cat heated oxygen sensor. My reasoning for this was to clear my P0420 (cat below efficiency, My cat is bad) code.

My understanding wasn't very clear as my brain broke all my readings down into basically this.

1. Engine make boom.
2. Boom makes exhaust using fuel/air combo.
3. Engine monitor exhaust before, and after "treating" (cat) exhaust gases.
4. Computer tells engine "We need more/less Air/fuel because we are out of target area."
5. Engine adds more fuel/air to compensate for inefficiency.
6. Compensation doesn't work.
7. CEL for 02 sensors/cat.
8. Engine can't get mix air/fuel properly.
9. Engine runs rich/lean.
10. Decreased MPG due to lack of proper mixing.

If that incredibly dumbed down version of how it works is wrong, then by all means help me out. I'm always eager to learn new brain juice.

NG.

I'm not after peak efficiency because I'm not Ricky Bobby. I'm just after more efficiency without going full ape shit. My 3.4L V6 will probably never see a track lol. Tune, and dyno time aren't anywhere near my radar. Little things I can do on my own are on my radar.

 

That is my plan. Just two more brake brackets and they are all fixed (that I am aware of). Seven total in total brackets will be replaced! It is a domino effect once one breaks. I added an extra one in the center of the fire wall for added support too!

 

I knew as I typed that you'd do this. lol

 

So - not really. Only the front O2 sensors provide feedback that is actually used by the ECU to adjust the amount of fuel.

The ECU does not care if your cats are working or not - they do not affect optimal air/fuel ratio. The rear O2 sensors only job is to ensure that cat efficiency is met. They only thing the ECU does when the signal is out of range is trip a code which set the MFIL (CEL). This is also why 0420/0430 codes do not force a flashing of the MFIL, there is no damage caused by it.

So, the rear O2 sensors can only turn on the check engine light, they cannot affect the amount of fuel used. That's why I indicated you are missing another variable in your MPG testing.

And I'm not suggesting that you go for a full tune, but if you're going to play around with your engine management system without measuring the effect on your engine - don't be surprised if something bad happens. There is only so much energy contained in every drop of fuel and you can maximize how it used, but there's only so much an internal combustion engine can convert to mechanical energy.

If your goal is just to turn off the monitoring of cat efficiency, you can disconnect the rear O2 sensors and send the ECU a signal that cat efficiency is in range.

Hope that helps.

 

The nickel copper stuff is super nice. Bends easily without tools and it's a lot easier to flare.