Bilstein 5100's Mid Setting + 275/70R18

Your truck looks great. Have you tried bending the skid plate so the tires won't rub it? I've seen where a few others tried it and it took care of their rubbing issue. I don't know if it's possible but may be worth a shot.

 

@757TUNDRA - thanks. I just ended up ordering new wheels with a lower offset (+25 instead of +60), should push the wheels out 1.25" and clear the skid plate (and hopefully improve the overall look/stance of the truck as well). For some reason I have a hard time doing anything to the skid plate or whatever on a truck that is still pretty darn new, probably unnecessarily concerned about doing things like that. I'll post more pics as soon as the new wheels are on, they're supposed to be here this week.

 

What ya gonna do with the stock wheels?

 

@Texan25 - was planning to sell them. I have a buddy here who I was going to sell them all to for $325, with the TRD Pro center caps. Does that seem like a fair price? Wheels have right at 4k miles on them.

 

Real good price, new here from our dealer was gonna be $1300. That's why asked what you were doing with them. I'm looking for a set!

 

@Texan25 - thanks for the info. Not sure where you live and/or if it would be worth it to ship, but if this guy falls through I'll let you know if you want.

 

Hey guys, don't want your post to be but I have a question 'bout shocks.My 2010 has 73,000 miles on it and prolly could use a set.I'm thinking Bilsteins and I'd like to get "almost level". What I want is enough rake left to stay level, when I tow our boat.Tires are LT 285-65-18 LTX AT2 Michelins,wheels are stock SR5 Alloys. What advise can you offer?

 

Should be fine with Bilstein 5100's on middle setting. I have this setup and it evens out when towing my boat and doesn't sag in the back.

 

Mid setting on mine still leaves a slight rake, top setting would be just about perfectly level I think. That looks great but will likely sag if you are towing or have the bed loaded. I left it on the middle setting for that same reason, I'll see how it looks when I do a little towing/hauling next summer. Airbags would fix that problem of course, but not sure I'm ready to get that serious just yet. @CMB - mind posting a pic of your truck with the 285/65R18's when you get a second please?

 

Certainly,thanks to Mike and Josh for the info!

 

Well,I changed my mind guys Ordered Bilstein's 6112's and 5100's as a set.Wondering if the adjustment rings offer any differences in height on the 6112's? Boat-load+gear prolly weighs 4000 lbs or so,towing 1000 miles a year.

 

Thanks geno0506,the diagram helps. Especially how it shows the Circlip/Spacer that gets mounted upside down causing most of "Bilstein's" failures. I'm going with the 1.3" adjustment on my 6112's and 5100's for the rear. No off-roading but boat towing duties every year.With a 4'10" Wife,I'm not interested in much lift!

 

Truck looks great! Simple but effective

 

These guys in this forum are awesome and taught me a lot so I like to pass it on, Good luck!

The set up you want is what I'm looking at as well!

 

I just put 5100's on my 2011 Tundra and have yet to find an alignment shop in the Pittsburgh area that can bring it into specs. I even went so far as to bite the bullet and buy the SRC adjustable upper control arms to give me a lot more Camber/Caster and the 2 mechanics I went to wouldn't touch the uppers and only told me that the camber bolts are gaulded and my eccentrics are maxed out.
Does anyone know who many fractions of an inch I should move the balljoint side to side to achieve 1 to 1 1/2 degrees adjustment. I did some basic trig and I'm looking at 1/4" to 1/2" depending upon whether I calculate from the actual control arm height or the center of the wheel. I have my toe almost perfect but need one degree positive caster (which I can get by rotating the balljoint with the star plate) and I'm out of camber by almost 1 1/2 neg each side and want to get to 1-2 degrees positive. I figure I'll try to use a level and get it as close as I can then find a reputable shop to fine tune it.
I'm hoping someone on here has adjusted at the upper control arms and has an idea of how far I need to move the balljoint to achieve 1 degree.

 

Hey guys! FNG here ! After reading a bunch of threads, I decided to go with the 5100’s as well. Middle setting. I have done other color match mods as well. Going for a tasteful look. After installing the 5100’s, I was very happy. The rake from front to back is only 3/4” and it rises great! Maybe a little smoother than stock. If anyone is still on the fence about this particular lift, you won’t be disappointed. Nice to meet you all! Have a great day!

 

Same here... 5100s 1.57" middle setting and one Coachbuilder shim on drivers side. It's perfect! The rest of the truck is stock.

 

After reading the posts I have the opposite problem most people have had. My truck sits dead nuts even up front, my passenger rear is 1/2" lower then the rest of the truck for some weird reason, and that's with 1/2 tank of fuel. All in all I really like the 5100's I had a set on both of my Titans and I think they are the best bang for buck.

I'm going to be stuffing 295/70's on in the near future. Not sure if I'm going for the new Bridgestone Revo AT3's or Duratracs when they get back in stock... both weigh around 52 to 54 lbs.

 

I just did the 5100’s on my 2011. my passenger rear side was almost 1/2” higher than the the driver rear With say 2/3-3/4 tank of gas. The difference stayed the same after all 4 5100s went on. I’m on the middle setting. So on the driver side I have about 1/2 measured rake and 1” rake on passenger side. I’ll measure again when the gas tank is near E.

Pics are both after lift.

 

Hmmm, I wonder what @Coachbuilder1 thinks about this?

 

I’m curious but not too concerned. I can’t see both sides at the same time anyway!

 

Truck looks good

 

Looks great. I'm thinking of doing exact same (5100s, mid setting, one CB shim). Any regrets? Would you do it the same again?

 

No regrets at all. I have recently upgraded to a 21 trd sport and did the same setup. 5100s up front on the 1.57" setting however I didn't need the cb shim this time. This sport didn't seem to have the lean. The ride is equivalent to stock and I have about ⅝" of rake. It looks level to the eye. Perfect "level" for a daily driver.

 

+18 offset with the same lift/tire combo

 

@blackCat1 question for you, I’m guessing you had a lean and that’s why you only used one shim on the drivers side????

I’m getting the 5100’s installed next week. My truck, for some reason, isn’t lower on the drivers side. Debating on if I should use shims at all.

 

That truck had a lean, yes. The shim made it perfect. I also put 5100s on my 2021. The 21 doesn't have a lean so I didn't use a shim. I thought about using a shim on both sides which would put the front end just over that 2" mark. Right now, without shims, and the 5100s on the middle setting im at 24.5" in the rear and 23.75" in the front. I think this rake is perfect for a daily driver. The truck doesn't look nose high when driving, but looks beefed up when parked. Almost like it came that way. I will attach a picture of the truck for your reference.

 

Appreciate the information @blackCat1 I will measure once more before the install with a 1/2 tank of gas then make a decision. As of right now, I’m leaning towards mid setting and no shims.

The 21’ looks awesome. Thanks for including a pci.