First step in new stereo system....sound deadening.

Do I see MDF board on the door?

 

Looking good... What speaks are you using? Thx

 

There is a big difference in the thickness of the metal used back then and today especially the metal Toyota uses. Probably some of the thinnest out there.
Just close your door and you can see the metal vibrate and hear how hollow it is. Now go close a door of a Nova. No comparison.

 

No, this is the door panel.

 

Hertz ck 165 for all 4 doors.

 

Just recently did this as I was installing my stereo. I used almost all of the 32sq ft that came in one package on the front doors. I did the inside and outside panels. I should have gotten some ABS or something to cover the large holes but I just matted over it for now. The difference is crazy. Thump the drivers door on the outside of the truck and it's a deep thud. Do the same to the rear door (that I haven't matted yet) and it ripples and it's super loud. It takes soooo much time do mat a door and do it correctly. I bet I spent a solid 3-4hrs on just the front two.

100% recommend to cover the large openings for better sound quality. I also used these nvx baffles.

 

I got those NVX baffles as well. They fit my Hertz ck165 speakers like a glove. I decided to use these after seeing someone else's speaker leads corroded from water. So far I've only installed them on the passenger side. I used the one for the front door fully extended and the rear door I folded over one flap because there is a little less room.

 

I really liked their fit. I kept mine fully extended and didn't notice any issues. I still have to go back in, pull the panels off, and mat the rear doors. I'll do some more exploration then.

I didn't test to see if the speakers sounded any different with them off though.

 

The driver needs room to breath. There's many write ups on this.

 

Care to share more? I didn't see any posts on this when I was looking.

 

Look up chamfering driver holes.

 

You mean like through a giant, gaping hole in the back?

 

Do what you need to do.

 

I'll be adding some Kilmat to the rear wall and then this will be getting loaded up with (2) JL Audio 10w0 subs.

 

In theory, they could both limit the free air near the driver and could act as a either a restrictor or simply make the air transfer so limited they could essentially make it so that the cavity that the door normally has is no longer utilized and therefore causes them to be over dampened. The suspension is no longer able to move to the full range of excursion and you lose both dynamics and volume.

Trying to get all these parameters dialed in is a rabbit hole though, each speaker is different, and even small variations in the way they are mounted and many other factors can be considered to be counterproductive. There is a point of diminishing returns. People tend to make mobile audio into a passion akin to home audio. Mobile audio will be considerably more challenging and I believe, ultimately more limited in its capacity to produce high quality results, when compared against home theater.

If a baffle limits suspension travel though, it will be audible to a trained ear.

 

Hard edge porting is not as ideal as taper or chamfered edge when it comes to laminar flow. Subs can chuff due to this, an audible distortion at the port itself. While the front looks like it would help with intra-panel sound transfer/loss, the fact that the open side of the speaker spider being covered by the port of the baffle would reduce any lateral airflow considerably. The sides are open for a reason. The speaker could be overly damped and lose some dynamics and SPL. You would need more power to compensate for this. It would be even worse if the speaker magnet weren't ported.

A baffle that simply rests onto of the speaker face and extends the backside of the door would likely be a better option.

 

Yay we got an expert!

 

It actually makes sense but I think a sub is the most extreme example because it moves much more air than a mid. Wish I had a microphone and a DSP to record and tweak some things. I'll probably end up going active on my setup in the future after I get my subs. I have removing and reinstalling the tundra door panels down. Wouldn't take much to take the baffles off and see if they make a difference.

 

just want to say thanks for all the info on this thread. i am also getting ready to install front and rear door speakers as well.. also used the killmat for my rear wall when my 2 10in was installed. big difference.