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Need help with NSV Knight rider AND 2018 LED headlight combo on a 2017 SR5

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by 05&17TundraGuy, Mar 8, 2021.

  1. Mar 8, 2021 at 7:02 AM
    #1
    05&17TundraGuy

    05&17TundraGuy [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 18, 2020
    Member:
    #46730
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    NY
    Vehicle:
    2017 CM TRD Offroad Blazing Blue Pearl
    3" Low Range Off-Road front level kit, 1.5" Icon Vehicle Dynamics AAL in rear Hadley "Bully" under-hood air horn w/compressor and tank mounted on Bannock452's compressor bracket Night Rider light bar w/Cirkit Boss Truxedo LowPro tonneau Black stainless Luverne running boards Dark tint Blackout tailgate letters & badges w/custom bedside decals Qi console charger Driver's grab handle Alpine PSU-300TND ESP under seat storage bins Tundra doorsill protectors TRD skid plate 2019 TRD black LED headlights AlphaRex Luxx tail lights in Alpha-black
    Hi all,
    Very infrequent poster here, mostly finding great tips and advise and drooling over everyone's rigs...now hoping I can benefit from specific experience. I've got a 2017 Tundra SR5 that came stock with OEM halogen headlights/amber DRLs. Had installed the NSV (Gen 3) following some great pointers on here and got it to work flawlessly-pinned it such that the strobe function is controlled by what is labeled as "DRL on/off" switch and ran a separate ignition hot wire (from a CirkitBoss) to the remaining pin which provides 12v to the DRL pin in the harness - full functionality like prior generations.

    Then I did the 2019 black LED headlight upgrade using Morimoto conversion cables; got them to work by swapping the purple/white pins at the OEM 3-wire passenger headlight connector and NSV pins at the driver side headlight connector (blue/white IIRC - my logic here was if I hadn't already had the NSV, I'd be swapping directly at the headlight, so this seemed the right thing to do even with the NSV) - thought I was all set until I realized the NSV DRLs weren't dimming anymore w/ the headlights on. Then tried/reversed several other options - swapping just the driver OEM purple and white, doing this plus swapping blue/white on both ends of the the NSV T-harness (per a member in another post), swapping blue/white NSV pins from the OEM driver's connector all the way to the driver headlight - ran into all the issues mentioned by other members (flashing NSV DRLs w/blinker, hyperflashing blinker, blown taillight fuses, non functional levelling motors...). Finally reverted all back to my first configuration to get my taillights working again - swapped purple/white at OEM passenger side connector and swapped blue/white on NSV connector at driver headlight. Oddly, the DRLS were dimming now, blinkers were working normally, but I lost the amber DRLs. I WANT both the amber DRL and NSV DRLs but I was grudgingly OK with this scenario since I NEED the DRLs to dim at night to avoid a ticket and blinding others and don't NEED the amber DRL Plus, I could always turn on running lights to light the amber DRLs. Then, the weird part. A bit later I backed out of my garage at dusk to admire my work and the amber DRLs were now working and NSV DRLs were once again not dimming. Back to square 1 and FRUSTRATING as all getout!!!

    So, I seem to be in the weird middle ground of NOT having factory LED DRL but having had to switch the amber DRL/turn signal pinouts for the new OEM LED headlights, so there must be some nonstandard way that deviates from the two "standard" install instructions to make it all work....Anybody out there with an SR5 that came with OEM halogen headlights/amber DRL been able to install NSV AND the 2019 LED headlights and get it all to work correctly? If so, would appreciate you enlightening me as to all your OEM and NSV pinouts (NSV standard throughout appears to be pin 1=blue, pin 2=white, pin 3=orange), whether you used the T-harness and/or a jumper - I've read some conflicting posts that reference depinning a blue and/or jumpering to purple on the level motor connection, but I don't want to cut/tap any wires unless I know for sure its the right thing to do for my particular configuration. pin swaps are one thing (though after ~50 times so far in the NY winter until 3am, if I never had to repin another $*#% connector again, I'd be OK with that!!) but I don't like cutting, especially if unnecessary and need to "uncut"...
    Thanks a ton for your help!!!
     
    OGSnoopSean likes this.

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