What's in your rear end?

@Hi06silver

I think you typed inside his quote. If you are going to run synthetic I would probably do one of the fluids that did well in those tests. I'm going to continue running non-synthetic Lucas Dino in the rear and I'll probably change it every 20K. In the front I'm running Mobil 1

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90 synthetic which seemed to do ok in those tests. It doesn't look like many companies even offer 75W-90 that is not synthetic...

 

Its really hard to find non synthetic diff oil in 80-90. The only two I have seen locally are the Lucas and what seems like a store brand at O'Reilly called MasterPro. I used MasterPro during the break in on my diff and the first two changes, then switched to Lucas.

 

Impossible to find straight 90w.

 

Every time I see this thread bumped back up to the top, the title feels like a personal attack. Are you guys done talking about lubes yet?

 

Interesting and informative thread.

I wish I paid the $400 over invoice asking price on my 02 SR5 for a Tundra with limited slip. My biggest complaint is having to turn on 4wd drive temporarily to get through slippery corner turns.

Back in 02, getting either ABS or limited slip on an SR5 was hard to come by at the time.

 

Dude, I have a LSD. Awesome!

 

Yeah. These trucks were big money back in the day. I remember wanting the running boards and they were $900 extra on top of about $30k in 2002. Had to pass back then, but did score some last year for $125 from a junk yard.

You may be able to do the same with LSD.

 

It’s funny you bring up the running boards. I complained to the dealer who sold me a truck with them since I wanted to put in my own. He took off the price of them and sold me the truck under invoice and almost 19 years later these fiberglass color matched ones have held up great and still make the truck look good.

 

I changed my oil a while back. Not sure what kind of oil my mechanic used but positive they didn’t add friction modifier to the mix. Is this something that should be done?

Ok read further in thread and I’ll changing my rear diff oil with one that has friction modifier just for peace of mind.

 

I took the running boards off of mine soon after I got it (several months ago). Chucked em in the scrap pile. I'd rather have sliders. Maybe I should dust them off and sell them? Hard to believe they were such an expensive option... kinda flimsy in design.

 

Can I use a “friction modifier additive” that says its for transmissions with the Lucas 80w-90 oil?

 

That Lucas says on the bottle that it's great for LSD's and no additive is needed.

 

Awesome thanks!

 

Bunghole! Did the wheel turn check. Spun opposite. Read that doesn't always work so I took a picture...does this look like gears or a cylindrical part of a mechanical LSD?

 

I have LSD and the wheels turn opposite. Many will say this opposite turn means no lsd.

Never looked inside mine, but from others stories there is a drum cylinder that looks as you described which looks like you do indeed have LSD.

 

Well at least when they jacked it up and put big tires on they did this part right and left it lsd and re-geared. There's really no reason I can't believe it wasn't. It's not sluggish when I hit the gas. I imagine if it hadn't been then it'd be sluggish. Thanks for your help btw. I did stumbled upon the thread I was looking for

 

Thank you Jack, good to see you here.

Tundrunk

 

You should sell them if you can. I wasn’t going to pay the stealer $900 in 2002 dollars for some aluminum with plastic trim which is why I passed. Those brackets cost $50 each (x3 per side) as replacement parts so make sure you have all of those for the buyer.

Mine were taken from a Jade Green 2003 model and I cleaned them up and painted them black Bedliner.
Holding nicely. Had to retrofit the brackets a little, but the boards are extremely strong and light (10 Lbs. each). Great for getting in and out of truck.

Some of those Custom Rock Sliders look cool, but all that weight bogs things down. Besides, I drive around rocks whenever possible so no need.

 

Well, I don't remember how savage I went when removing them... but I know I was probably a little rough on the rusted bolts. I seem to recall some of them spinning and I had to bust out the angle grinder. If anyone in Colorado needs em and want's to drive up here they can have them for free. Otherwise they'll stay in the pile until the scrap man cometh.

 

Yup

 

What does toyota.com/owners say? It should be listed there if you have it...unless it was added later by an owner, which is possible but unlikely.

 

In my '06 with LSD, that I sold at at 245,000 miles, from the first time I changed the oil at the first recommended point, I put Mobil 1 and a whole tube of LSD additive in, from Autozone. Worked perfect, no chattering on turns, etc. Did the same then on. The magnetic bolt only ever had the slightest streak of silver on it.

 

Toyota.com says LSD. I've read that the wheel turn test isn't always accurate. But if ya take a peek it'll look different. Just wasn't sure from looking

 

That pic looked like an LSD to me...but hard to tell. I'd trust the toyota.com\owners data personally.

 

Its an lsd for sure. I would hate to ask anybody with an open rear end to take a pic in their fill hole for us, but you'd see just gears if they did.

Yeah, a bit of Beavis n Butthead giggles applied there.

 

Thank you all for the information. I just purchased a 2003 Tundra SR-5 V6 manual, and am looking to change out all the fluids since I have no history on how old they all are. This was super helpful in figuring out if I have a LSD or not. I ended up not having a LSD so for those who want a photo looking in through the filler for a non-LSD differential here it is.

 

@boucherja4784 yup, that is the open diff. I'll get a pic of my LSD next oil change to post in here.

 

Y’all posting photos of your rear ends... that’s gross