Key Fob Replacement 2002 Tundra

I assume you have the manual to make sure you are doing the exact programming steps, but just in case you don't...


http://www.parksoffroad.com/tacomamods/alarminfo/alarminfo.htm#remoteprogramming

One other thing, I had a '96 4Runner that I bought with no FOBs. It had the RS3000 system. I bought FOBs and programmed them and they worked great...but within 2 months they stopped working. I didn't know how old the batteries were, so I replaced them with new ones and programmed them again. Nada. So, I took the RS3000 ECU out of the truck and opened it up. I removed the circuit board from the box and noticed it had some light oxidation on it (It's humid here in GA). I used some contact cleaner and a tooth brush to lightly clean it. Put it back together and it worked like a charm till I sold it a year later, so you might give that a shot.

 

I do have those instructions. I followed them and no piezo chirp or lights. It's like nothing is happening. I have two fobs and I tried to program with each of them.

I'll try to open up the ECU and clean it. I am concerned that I have tried the RS3000 that was in the truck and different RS3000 i ordered on Ebay, both having no results means the ECU is probably fine. Perhaps the ECU is not getting power? or perhaps the FCCID on the remote is not the right one?

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Yea, in that case the first thing I would do is trace the power wire and make sure it's getting power...

 

I don't know if this will help right now, but two months ago I bought one from carandtruckremotes.com, "Part number 08191-00922" "Description: Transmittter 3B" and I was able to program it just fine for my new-to-me-came-without-a-fob 2009 Tundra. As I recall, on that website you put in your truck info and they tell you which fob to buy. It worked for me.
But before I did that, I stopped by my Toyota dealer to ask them if remote was even possible for my truck because apparently it isn't for some of them. They took forever to look it up, but were able to tell me that it was available. Then, based on information I found here on the forum, I had to take a guess as to whether it was a factory installed or dealer installed system. I luckily guessed right (smile!)

 

New to the forum and Tundra just picked up a 2003 limited 4x4 step side and it came from previous owner with only one FOB and only the lock button works but is also nearly dead like the unlock button.

It has FCC-ID BAB237131-056 on the semi working FOB.

Is this thread still active and can you tell me what FOB is needed or a substitute that is compatible? I kind of like the key/FOB one unit combo but am not all in with that idea so I would also like to see about direct replacement.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

I am the person who wrote about my new truck fob right above your post. I had great success with the fob I bought at carandtruckremotes.com (no affiliation, just a very satisfied customer!)

 

Wooooooooo! I got my new fob from Amazon for $12.95 and worked. Whoever suggested looking in the manual for your FCC code, you are da man!! I couldn't believe it. Bold letters on page 248… FCC code. All the guessing and researching and trying to bribe my toyota dealership for the code to my truck and it was under my nose the whole time.

 

That is awesome! Wish I'd had the manual...sigh... Mine cost a lot more than yours but I still thought I got a great deal at the time - the dealer wanted $159 plus extra for programming it, and I got mine for $59 and programmed it myself.

 

Doing more internet searching I believe mine has the RS3200 system. I found this on Toyota Owners with my Vin:





The confusing thing to me is that it says "Cloth" captain chairs but they are either vinyl or leather for both front captain chairs and the rear bench seat.

Anyway back to the key fob for me. using RS3200 and the FCC ID BAB237131-056 I got a lot more hits and so I also found a unit on Amazon and just kicked off an order for a pair.

I see several YouTube videos about programming but can't say for sure which one works for my truck. Does anyone have a video link? If not that's ok, the FOBS are supposed to arrive with programming instructions and from that I should be able to see which video matches.

I learned a ton in this thread so thanks to all that contributed. crossing my fingers that I got the right FOB on order. I will know next week.

 

"I see several YouTube videos about programming but can't say for sure which one works for my truck. Does anyone have a video link? If not that's ok, the FOBS are supposed to arrive with programming instructions and from that I should be able to see which video matches"

The instructions included with my new fob were easy to follow - I didn't need a video. Got it on the second try. The only thing I screwed up on (I think) was the time required to do a certain step - it said to press the button for "1.5 seconds"...sheesh! So if the steps don't work for you, check how long you are pressing the button (assuming you have the same type of instructions as I did) - change how long you are pressing it a little bit either way. That ".5" of a second is tough to estimate

 

Quick update to my project. After a month of being a little peev'd, i started back into this project. Turns out, Toyota wires it differently if you just have the keyless vs keyless + alarm. Under the kick plate there are two connectors that connect into one another...if they are configured that way, the ECU can't be programed. If you disconnect two looped connectors and the connector from the ignition cylinder. and then reconnect the 1 looped connector to the ignition cylinder and the other looped connector to what used to be connected to the ignition cylinder...it will program. I got it to program.

Range isn't amazing...but i think i saw a forum on that too

Cheers everyone...hopefully this helps someone out there that runs into this.

 

Update:
The FOB’s I ordered off Amazon matching my FCC ID arrived and as someone mentioned provided programming instructions. It had option 1 and option 2.

It took me a few tries to get into programming mode but I was able to do it in option 1 and set up 2 new FOB’s.

I will keep the worn out that only has 1 working button around because the new FOB’s do not have any sort of identification, logo, or indicator just in case in the future I need more for some reason.

Again, thanks to all who contributed here as your knowledge led me to success in my first attempt to replace.

 

Wow, how did you determine that was the issue? Link? Ironically, I recently bought a 2000 4Runner with an RS3000 unit that I'm having trouble programming an additional key fob for.

 

My new FOB arrived today. Anyone with the RS3000 know where the ECU is located? I didn't see it under the dash near the gas pedal as others have indicated.

 

Some people in this thread say it above the gas pedal nearing the steering column and others said it's over on the left near the fuse box...

 

Thanks. I'll see what I can find. Still not convinced I have the RS3000 since I don't have the security light but everything else matches. Same appearance case and same number on the back.

 

I found a reference to it on another forum ( ). See post by Ando140 from 2007. It was odd to see the wiring go from the ECU toward the ignition, but not connect to it...only to just loop back around. I'm guessing the ECU needs to know that they key is in the on position to program (part of the instructions). When they are wired in a loop and the ECU isn't connected into the ignition cylinder it won't program. I noticed that when i rewired it to connect to the ignition cylinder, the doors would lock when you start the truck and unlock with you turn if off (it did not do that before). The forum I read mentioned it was Toyota's way of differentiating between keyless entry and Keyless entry + alarm. So my tundra does not have a glass breakage sensor nor a flashing LED security light on the dash. I'm assuming that's a factory install job for Tundra's with the "security" option put on them (they install and wire the security light on the dash and the glass breakage sensor to the RS3000).

Once I figured that out...it programed...I will say though, when they say press the ECU button to program for 3 seconds...they mean 3 seconds...not 5. Lol...once i got that down, it was easy.

One another note, i bought my fobs (BAB237131-022) from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Replacement-Toyota-BAB237131-022-RS3000-Key-Fob-Remote-Grey-/112167077324

One of the FOB's did not work, even after i changed the battery. I contacted the seller, and they sent me another FOB at no charge / no shipping cost. Very responsive. I'm very happy now with 2 working FOBs...for the price, i would recommend them.

 

Hey There,
It's a PITA to find it, but I did find mine above the gas pedal, on the right side of the steering column (as you look at the steering wheel, in the drivers seat...in line with the ignition). You need to pull the kick plate and lay your head on the floor matt and look up toward the steering column (it will now be on the left side of the steering column, inline with the ignition). If you find the two looped connectors (mentioned below) trace them back to the ECU. The looped connectors were very obvious and not hidden from view / near ignition. My RS3000 was covered in tan colored foam and bolted with a 12mm bolt to a stud along with another piece of electronics in front of it. My RS3000 case is a grey color. FWIW, my truck is also a 2002 SR5 4x4 AC and it also does not have a security light.

It was helpful entering my VIN into https://www.toyota.com/owners/my-vehicle/vehicle-specification to confirm that it did have key-less entry installed (this was per Speedtre's excellent advice).

A warning on the wiring...your truck may have the same looped wiring as mine (no security light on the dash). If you are having programing issues, you may need to disconnect the loops for it to program. Unplug the looped connectors and the ignition cylinder connector. Reconnect the male end of the looped connector to the ignition cylinder and the ignition cylinder male plug into the female looped connector.

 

Thank you. Looks like I have the same package as you. I'll pull the lower dash off and take a look.

 

I have the Port installed RS3000. I'm 98% certain that the ecu is relatively easy to get to just above the fuse box.



Security light...

 

No light for me but I'm going to check behind the fuse box.

 

^^^ A few weeks ago when I had the dash apart I wasn't looking for the RA3000 ecu but I recall seeing a steel box, maybe 3"x4"x1" with a harness leading to the security light and I thought "this is how they install stuff at the Port".

(On the trip behind the dash I was looking for lights and also wondering what wire harness was running to the dummy plug...according to the manual that's the clutch override switch light that I don't need in my auto.)

Good luck with your search.

 

I'm thinking this will be your issue...you have remote entry, but not the "security" function...unless yours says it has "security" on the toyota.com\owners site?

 

I was really hoping I wouldn't have to mess with any wires. I got the lower dash panel off. Still no ECU. Waiting for the rain to stop then I'm checking behind the kick panel.

 

The sneaky bastards really hid this thing. I had to remove the ball duct venting to see it.

 

@speedtre the instructions that came with the fob are different than the instructions in the link you gave. I tried that method first and it hasn't worked yet. I'm afraid of losing my existing code if I follow their instructions.

Which method has worked for you in the past?

https://www.keylessremotewarehouse....itter_keyfob_pre_owned_gray_126apo_c_p283.htm

 

It should be: Key in on position (not started). press the green button for 3 seconds on the ECU (you don't have a light so you will have to count in your head) then press the remote button. You should hear the Piezo chirp twice i believe. Turn off ignition and it should be programed.

Does your doors auto lock when you turn the key to the on position and then unlock when you turn the key to the off position? If they do not, i'm guessing you have the same wiring issue I was describing above. Your FOB won't program if it is wired in this way. You will need to move the connectors as described.

 

I just got it. I wouldn't have figured it out without your previous post Blur. And thanks @speedtre I had to swap those connectors.

It's not a great picture, but here are those connectors for anyone else that may need this in the future.