Best Oil for 5.7

Regular non-synthetic oil in both engines.

 

Such an insane statement not sure I understand what you mean. If you believe the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act would cover you if you used a fluid not approved by the manual then holy crappola watch out for those Jewish Space Lasers and tracking devices in your vaccine cause your tinfoil hat has leaks. And to all the people who pin their hopes on the "more often then not" failure rate of the incredibly weak MMWA then lets explain to you simply how your litigation will unfold. Your going to try and sue a dealership and thus Toyota. Any lawyer not on 3AM television will demand a $25,000 retainer since again your not suing your 60 point IQ cousin but in fact Toyota. Toyota will see right off the bat what a genius you are and delay the case over and over and over and over and over again. Thus, your $25,000 will be gone ASAP. But guess what, you just won a 7-11 scratcher ticket and can hand your "not laughing behind your back" lawyer another $15K. Eventually you'll make it to a Judge where he will pull you aside after review and offer you a bit of free advice. "These cases NEVER win". Yes, we all read about how someone used the MMWA to win a case but that was actually the dealership settling out-of-court cause of something not winnable.

 

LMAO!!!

 

So you are saying that the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act was created by someone that receives a government paycheck to shows others that they still should have their job after a certain period of time has elapsed.

 

I appreciate the responses. I would say, however, please keep things on point: What oil do you use/recommend? Keep things in perspective - it's oil.

 

Mobil 1 from Costco. MFG's spec for the weight.

 

Mobil 1 0W-20, i don't tow so i change every 10k,

 

5k oci, 270k miles using mobil 1.

Notice how clean the cams are, no visible wear, no yellowing or oil stain/sludge build-up.

 

I have used Mobil 1 for years, changed at 5,000 mile intervals. Each vehicle has over 115,000 miles, and was bought new.

 

I've used a lot of Mobil1, never had any problems with it. It just tends to be expensive at auto parts stores, even the Costco price is not great. Wally world tends to run a decent deal.

Ever since Costco came out with their 'kirkland' oil 2-pack of 5qt jugs, fully synthetic, I've been using that. Can't beat $2.50/qt.

 

Most dealers use Toyota’s own OEM branded oil. It’s made by ExxonMobil and is basically Mobil Super Synthetic with a custom additive pack. Reported to be very good stuff.

 

THAT IS AMAZING!!! Finally, some useful information, not cost based, for making the decision.

The cams look like they've been removed, cleaned, and then reinstalled. After 270K miles, that is almost TOO CLEAN and TOO DRY for me. Increase your OCI to 10K miles to take full advantage of your motor oil value.

 

Carry on Sir!!!

 

The best time to buy Mobil1 is during their corporate rebate period.

Different promotions are always being offered and continually changing at various parts stores (link below). There has typically been an unlimited promotion sometime in late March-April. Rebates are limited to two five gallon jugs per family, i.e. one Tundra change with a little extra to accumulate.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/promotions

 

I wish any one of the dealerships used that as their bulk oil. It really is good oil but more expensive than the better over the counter oils. Out of the three dealerships I frequent one uses Valvoline bulk, the other one I forgot, and the one I frequent the most uses Mobil 1 bulk. They all charge extra if the customer chooses the TGMO. I use whatever bulk when I change my Corolla oil and my wife’s Highlander oil at the dealership. Late model Toyota’s are notorious for being easy on oil so bulk doesn’t bother me. I am most likely going to do my own Tundra oil changes and TGMO will be my first pick and Mobil 1 EP will be my second. My Tundra is the closest thing I will be owning to a classic Ferrari or a 1969 Chevelle SS with matching vin numbers. So with the Tundra I will step up the care and fluid choices even though I know it won’t make any difference longevity wise...

 

I like how you think. If Mobil1 was good enough for my "dream" 2006 Z51 Corvette, it is good enough for Tundra.

BTW, if you manage to get that 1969 Chevelle SS, I was told by former GM engine designer that Shell Rotella for OTR diesels was better for vintage engines because of the additive package.

 

I'd wager less than 5% of Toyota dealerships actually use Toyota Genuine Motor Oil for their oil changes. They sell it at the parts counter, but in the shop for oil changes? Nope, that is bulk oil. Most dealerships don't even use the right weight of motor oil or gear oil as speed in your owners manual. For instance, I decided buy my own gear oil for my differentials and have the dealership do the change. Per the owners manual, I purchased 75w85 gear oil, Ravenol brand. They actual came to me and said are you sure? We use bulk 75w110 her for all vehicles. I showed them the owners manual. Blank stares all around. Unbelievable.

I purchased 6 quarts per the manual--3.8 in the rear, 2.2 in the from, total of 6. They used 5, gave me the 6th one back. Said that is all it took So, now I have to wonder if my diffs are underfilled.

In the end, if you want to make sure everything is done properly with the proper fluids, you have to do it yourself. I tore my rotator cuff, so I can do any work like that right now. I guess I will just hope for the best.

 

...I am wagering that I have a better chance of meeting God everyday for the next 25 years then I have A.) finding that unicorn or B.) affording that car.

But on the off chance I am proven wrong...thanks for the info!

 

The dealer I checked in on when I bought my Tundra said they use Toyota brand oil for the first two free oil changes then go to Valvoline bulk thereafter.

I bought the oil filter and the guy said you have two free oil changes.....I said no thanks! The look he gave me was like I licked a window.

 

Don't forget KY...

 

Best oil viscosity really depends on your global location for temperature factors. Also time between run cycles plays an important role as well because most wear takes place during start up or after an oil change. Then you throw in how the engine is used. Lastly, consider change intervals and frequency of fill level checks. So, the people here saying use this or that are speaking based on what they assume to be a good choice. My advice, consider the factors I mentioned and select what is best for your application. As for my own applications, Mobil1 full syn 0-30 4Runner and Tundra. Old Ford and Dodge products always went well over 300k miles on Quaker State 10 40 non syn. Never had an oil related issue, not even in motors known to have oil related failures after 150k. Those engines were all pushed hard, but had regular oil changes at 5k. Change intervals and level checks are a huge factor! Lastly, a little 1/2 quart overfull is a beautiful thing because it is absorbed into circulation once the engine is started, meaning you have more quantity to reduce concentration of the impurites that break down the lubrication qualities. Good luck and rock on!

 

https://youtu.be/xXyq2_Nf4gI

 

What's everyone thoughts on switching to a 5W-30 weight oil over 0W-20 for someone in a hotter climate like the south US?

 

Honestly I see no reason to...there may be a slight improvement in engine wear but I wouldn’t make that assumption without proper analysis. If there we engine failures in the hotter states I would think about it but fortunately that’s not the case...I would stick with 0w20.

 

I understand it won't create a engine failure using either weight. More looking to see which is a better weight for engine protection.

 

Gotchya...I just don’t think there is any concrete proof that a heavier weight oil will provide any better protection in the 5.7 motor than a 0w20. Way too many variables...

 

Mobil 1 0W20 (usually AFE variety) is still amber color on the dipstick at 6,000 miles in my 5.7. I'm at 70K miles.

 

Toyota only specs 0w20 for the tundra in the USA and Canada. The rest of the world specs include many more oil weights. This is for CAFE reasons, not max engine protection.

Toyota specs the 2UR-GSE ( their high performance V8 in the LC500, RCF, GSF, ISF ) with 5w30 in the USA, for max protection not CAFE as these are low production cars that don't affect their CAFE numbers that much.

Here is the owners manual from a Tundra sold in Mexico :

 

Changed my oil today. I had about 6-7k from last oil change, which was AMSoil 0W-20. I would check my dipstick every so often just to see how things were looking. Even as of today, the oil on the dipstick looked decent, I thought the oil was in good shape. However, the oil was pretty darn black coming out of the engine. I was surprised.