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Double Cab Stereo - Dimmer / Illumintation and steering wheel controls

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by onesojourner, Feb 13, 2021.

  1. Feb 13, 2021 at 3:16 PM
    #1
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    @speedtre @MrDirtjumper @abcinv Do any of you know what color wire I am looking for for the dim / illumination function on the double cab? Also do you know what color the steering wheel controls are?


    I am in the middle of a stereo install. I thought I had the steering wheel controls figured out with the three wires in the combination switch. I am not having any luck though. If I have any of them connected to the my stereo and in the learn mode I can ground any of these wires and it detects a button press. Pressing a button on the steering wheel does not do anything

    upload_2021-2-13_17-10-1.jpg
     
  2. Feb 13, 2021 at 3:45 PM
    #2
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW "Oz" SSEM #82 RGBA #4 Unofficial Forum Treasurer Vendor?

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    I’ve got the full set of EWDs for ever year Tundra up in the Wiring Diagram sticky post (see my signature). There should be a separate “illumination” circuit EWD you need.

    Also - regarding button presses not registering - did you always have the switches, or did you add them? I don’t see that diagram above showing a spiral cable connection, but somewhere between the steering wheel and the radio there has to be a spiral cable in the steering wheel that would need to have all the necessary wires on both sides of it to work.
     
  3. Feb 13, 2021 at 3:47 PM
    #3
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW "Oz" SSEM #82 RGBA #4 Unofficial Forum Treasurer Vendor?

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Also - what stereo are you installing, and do you have the necessary adapter to retain steering wheel controls (depending on year and aftermarket stereo, there are a few options - Maestro, PAC, etc.).
     
  4. Feb 13, 2021 at 4:07 PM
    #4
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    It's the atoto s8. It's just a china android head unit. The switches are factory.
     
  5. Feb 13, 2021 at 5:49 PM
    #5
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    IMG_20210123_203906.jpg

    Red, blue & green w/black stripe on my truck. But it's an access cab.


    EAU/GND is the common/ground and AU1/SW1 & AU/SW2 are the controls.
     
  6. Feb 13, 2021 at 6:47 PM
    #6
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    Alright I figured out I can pull the reverse signal from the not connected grey connector with two wires. The red wire is the reverse signal. The dim signal is the brown wire on the now unused 20pin.

    So now I am just missing the steering wheel controls. Sorry if I missed the answer above, I don't understand much of the manual wiring info. My stereo has 2 steering wheel control + wires. It also has a 3.5mm steering wheel control. It has some sort of learn control built in.
     
  7. Feb 13, 2021 at 7:23 PM
    #7
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Is there an xda-developers thread for the atoto?

    Toyota used the same SWC across many of their vehicles (tundra, tacoma, 4runner, sienna, camry, etc.). If someone there has the pins that work, it should also work for you.


    1st search result:
    https://www.siennachat.com/threads/...and-retain-the-steering-wheel-controls.65182/

     
  8. Feb 14, 2021 at 2:22 PM
    #8
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    I have 3 wires in the same plug but they are different colors and on top of that, the blue one in that video is my illumination trigger. I do have those 3 colors on the larger plug, but ther are 2 greens.

    The back up camera is just about in. I just need to get some wire ties on the cable and mount the camera.
     
  9. Feb 14, 2021 at 2:28 PM
    #9
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Pics/colors of your connector & wiring?

    My pic is an access cab, which has different color wires than your double cab.


    https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/help-thread-atoto-a6-pro-ask-any-question-noob-friendly.3849756/
    https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/how-to-use-steering-wheel-controls-with-the-atoto-a6-pro.3849621/
    https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/atoto-a6-pro-steering-wheel-controls.3876677/

    Going by the second thread you'll need to ground the steering controls to the atoto ground and hook the other two wires to the atoto + steering inputs.

    You may need to use a multimeter to check resistance when a button is pressed to hook the correct wires up.
     
  10. Feb 14, 2021 at 3:02 PM
    #10
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    The brown wire here is what I measured as dim. And I think these are the same 3. I found the resistors in my parts bin.

    SmartSelect_20210214-165815_Gallery.jpg
    SmartSelect_20210214-165815_Gallery.jpg
     
  11. Feb 14, 2021 at 3:05 PM
    #11
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    I was trying to avoid ordering another harness but I guess I will look to see what is out there. In his video he has a harness.
     
  12. Feb 14, 2021 at 5:50 PM
    #12
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2021
  13. Feb 14, 2021 at 6:02 PM
    #13
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    On looking at your OEM diagram/colors. This is what I'd try:


    LG-R (light green w/red stripe) is SW1: to Atoto SWC +.

    BR-W (brown w/white stripe) is SW2: to atoto SWC # +.

    GR-R (gray w/red stripe) SWC ground: to radio ground (tap/splice).
     
  14. Feb 15, 2021 at 6:09 AM
    #14
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    I think you are right. Maybe I had a bad connection before or maybe I just need the resistors. there are at least 3 different double cab wiring diagrams and all of them show the same color wires. I will try it with the resistors today. My brain is working at a reduced capacity do to this cold.
     
  15. Feb 15, 2021 at 4:12 PM
    #15
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Yes, you have to lift the lock on the connector and then release the tab for the pin/wire to pull out.

    I had to make a tool for the tab using a pin that is used for dress shirts or general sewing. I heated it with a butane torch until glowing red, hammered it flat'ish and then used a precision file to shape it.

    I used this to get an idea of the shape. Basically a flat rectangle with a angled end.
    Screenshot_20210215-160714.jpg


    The lock is the rectangular bar in the middle of the connector. The part with red on it in your pics. It pops up about 1mm or so when released, it won't come all the way out.

    The pin/tool is inserted in the slot below the terminal pin hole, with the angled point up against the terminal pin. This way it catches the tab and pushes it away from the terminal.
     
  16. Feb 15, 2021 at 4:23 PM
    #16
    onesojourner

    onesojourner [OP] Here, let me derail that for you

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    Thanks, I wondered if that should lift up. I think I have that tool. I was trying to use it here... maybe the lock is all I needed. I have things all buttoned up now. We are headed to the big mountains in a couple days and I got a few more things to get done. I will jump back on this once it warms up a bit. It's 23 in the garage right now.
     
  17. Jan 10, 2022 at 10:38 AM
    #17
    MrDirtjumper

    MrDirtjumper Ol’ dickhead

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    @onesojourner Did this work? I was installing an S8 this weekend and I’m fighting with the steering wheel controls staying programmed. I have an ASWC interface between though but I’d like to do away with that if possible.
     

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