de-badge gone bad

De-badged the truck today. All good until the last one (6 total). The second big V-force 5.7 badge went bad. Had the truck in the sun and used a heat gun with fishing line. I guess this one got too hot, did it the same as the others. Almost all the adhesive stayed stuck to the truck for all badges. I used my thumbnail to start then rolled off the rest the adhesive with my fingers - easier than I though it would be. Seems strange that the paint came off in this uniform rectangle?
I suspect these badges (adhesive) are put on before the paint is really cured. The jagged parts of the removed paint are from my finger nail about 30 minutes after the adhesive peal event.
This is far from a show truck with plenty of pin strip already, any chance they make a rattle can that comes close to this metallic dark grey?
No, the badge is not going back on!
thanks
Bob

 

Ouch, sorry to hear and see that.

As for raffle can, hopefully someone will chime in. I have no clue on that.

If it was me, is look for a TVD Decal to put over it and cover up the blemish. State flag etc.

 

Ouch, that's a tough one. I don't think a rattle can is going to work there—it'll be way too noticeable on that big of an area. Have you thought of adding black badges, or was your goal to completely debadge?

 

DAMN!!!! This is one reason I haven't debadged... I power washed my truck when it was a year old, and strips of paint came right off on both sides of the bed... so I took it back and got it repainted.... If its still under warranty, they will paint it for free.... At least they did mine, spent 2 weeks at their body shop, talking about they had to repaint both sides of the bed, due to possible paint contamination...

 

Buy some black badges. You will never be able to hide that with a rattle can. You would have fill in the missing paint with bondo or whatever and sand and repaint the whole panel...even then it is doubtful it would be a perfect match.

 

Dang that sucks! First I've seen of this, but as suggested by @blackdemon_tt I would contact your dealer and see if you have any kind of factory coverage that can get it repainted. Whichever way you go, keep us posted.

Again, sorry you are dealing with this.

 

Could easily be wrong here, but I'd be shocked if any dealer ever repaired under warranty something that was damaged by customer intentionally modifying the vehicle. No way can that be considered a paint defect. Worth a phone call though.

My vote would be a new badge of some sort. Flag, hobby or passion or something like that.

 

They won't even consider it warranty or cover it if he took a Heat Gun too it.

I always used a Blow Drier on LOW, kept it in motion and didn't let it get hot at all

 

If I were to do it again I would omit the heat gun entirely and use 10-20 lb braided fishing line with the truck in the sun. I did this with 10lb mono and it broke a lot. This morning, with the truck broadside to the sun it was plenty hot even in 50 degree ambient temp. I could actually wiggle the smaller badges by hand without added heat. Live and learn. I'll take it to a body shop for an estimate, but I see decal of some sort in my future; I'd rather put that $500 toward a set of sliders...

 

Find an airbrush guy/gal and have them cover it with something cool!!??

 

Sorry to see your paint issues.
I would have cried if that happened to me..

As other stated, I'd put it back on, maybe a blacked out badge if that is what you desire..
I think the heat gun was the problem, not so much the paint.

I'll add to anyone reading this thinking about debadging;
I used 20# line to floss the badges off.
I don't think you need a heat gun at all, I didn't use one, although I didn't remove the iForce badge.
For the remaining tape residue, a 3M eraser wheel would be the way to go.
I used it for remaining tape and well as removing my TSS decal off the bed..
Watch a few youtubes and go for it..

$44 3M Stripe Off Wheel Adhesive Remover Eraser Wheel Removes Decals, Stripes, Vinyl, Tapes and Graphics 4” diameter x 5/8” thick 3/8-16 threaded mandrel 07498 Pack of 1

3M Stripe Off Wheel Adhesive Remover Eraser Wheel Removes Decals, Stripes, Vinyl, Tapes and Graphics 4” diameter x 5/8” thick 3/8-16 threaded mandrel 07498 Pack of 1: Power Rotary Tool Accessories: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


I bought a black set of iForce badges years ago and them custom painted.
I've yet to use them, might put them on when I get rid of the chrome bumper ends.
Only posting them to show options you may have if you want to put the badge back on.
It looks better than the pic, the light reflection messed the pic up.



Good luck..

 

I would not cover that up in any way, shape, or form. I would have it professionally repainted, especially if you are set on no badges at all.

 

Never tried this on a car myself, but I'm wondering if soaking it in gum off or something might work with a smooth, thin piece of plastic to remove it.

Edit: my bad didnt read that the paint came off.....ouch

 

Gotta repaint the panel. No other way to fix it. Doesn’t require body filler. Just remove the paint around it to blend and repaint.

 

I have the 3M rubber wheel and used it to remove All the adhesive left over from the smaller SR5 badge (the first one I removed). It was nerve wracking at best and I was afraid of "buffing" through paint. For the rest of them I was able to "role off" 99% of the adhesive fairly easily - then used the wheel to remove the remaining outline of the lettering edges. No problems with this process.
I think the external heat was the problem on the second I-force badge (combined with the garbage they call paint on newer cars).
The heat gun was set to 400f and I kept it moving around about 4-5 inches (wind was blowing) from the plastic piece of trash I was removing.
The I-force badge was a different monster compared to the other badges - lots of continuous surface area; the others came of easy.

To be clear, I think these badges can be removed without added heat, with proper patience. Careful with that rubber wheel though; I did not have problems with it but it did scare the shite out of me when I used it.

 

Still... paint contamination would've made it come off eventually, heat gun or not... If its still under warranty, I'd take it back and say I was washing it and the badge came off along with the paint.... if they ask about the other side, just tell them it looks dumb just to have 1 on.

 

Nope.

Worst advise ever.

So you want him to flat out lie for his mistake? Even the dealer is as dumb as this advise.

 

LOL, that's what I used... it was true though... I was power washing the truck and the paint literally flew off, just strips of it...

 

Completely different scenario.

One is the truth and one is fraud.

 

a lawyer would call it bending the truth... he was improving the steam line of the design to improve mpg.... Fact is, paint is shit anyway... you can probably give it a dirty look and it will flake off... My raggedy 91 MR2 had less scratches then my truck did in 09....

 

It really is garbage paint on newer cars - not sure when they all switched to water based? I have a 2001 Lexus LS 430, has almost zero scratches on it, tough as fkn nails.
About a week after I bought this truck (new) we had a hail storm coming. I put a clean large piece of cardboard over the hood to protect it. It somehow left a few scratches. I couldn't believe it, but since then I have seen how easy it is to scratch this paint.
Other than that, the truck kicks butt and I'm happy with it. Beats the heck out of tranny problems, or engine problems.
I'm sure it will take some time but I will post back with the final outcome.
id like blackdemon to be my attorney when the time comes

 

First of all, I'm really sorry that happened to you. Live and learn, I guess. Second, YES, Dupli-Color makes a "exact match" (their words) Magnetic Gray Metallic rattle spray can. And I have used it: when I installed my first set of pocket fender flares. And, no, it was NOT and "exact match".

$15 Dupli-Color EBTY16197 Perfect Match Automotive Spray Paint – Toyota Magnetic Gray Metallic, 1G3 – 8 oz. Aerosol Can

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BTY1619-Magnetic-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407RRTG
It was an eency, weency bit lighter than my factory paint and noticeable to my very discrminating eye. Maybe Dupli-Color takes into account paint fade or something. Either way, my rig is a 2018 and I wax it twice a month. I have since replaced my flares and had them color matched and painted by my most trusted local body shop.

Third, I am with @Tundra234 in that you should just bite the damned financial bullet and have it painted professionally. It's a $40-50k vehicle for crying out loud, and you do NOT want it looking ghetto.

 

Agreed with the paint.... I think the region where is painted has alot to do with it..... I'm sure your LS has a J at the beginning of the VIN, just like my old MR2, and my Celica, I would say 02 clear coat became shitty as everything from 02 on has been flacking off like crazy on all Asian brand cars...

 

I may find god after all !!!
Preacher35 has come through with the holy rattle can magic I desire!!!
I'll sand down the edges nicely, maybe even swipe on some filler, spray some holy juice, feather it out, etc. ... And recite some prayers of course... and Viola itza fixed!
Now we're talking!!
Thank you preacher !

 

Oooooo lawd geezus!

 

Sorry to hear. There are full tailgate graphics on Amazon. Always partial to this one.

 

This^^^^^^ I was never into the heat gun/blow dryer thing when removing badges. Unnecessary. Simple fishing line is all you need. I replaced badges on my 07 in 2016 with zero issues and on my 14 a year ago.

 

Why not consider putting on a pair of blacked out iForce badges back on as mentioned? Not too sure if the decal you might get will look right without some prep to the damaged area. The DupliColor temp fix is a good idea though.

 

Nothing worse than when a 3 minute job turns into a long drawn out....expensive one.

 

Here’s what I’d do if you’re hell bent on no badges. I’d start the route tried by @preacher35 - you might get it close enough. You’ll still noticed it though. If that doesn’t work then have it professionally painted. All you go to lose is the price of the rattle can with the first step.

Edit: you might be able to find a mobile body repair outfit that could be a less expensive option.

https://youtu.be/T4VshJmCCrU