1st Generation Tundra parking brade adjustment

Looking for a manual or video showing how to adjust the parking brake.

 

You tube my friend.
https://youtu.be/hldLkLQL4t0

 

Thanks for posting this video!

 

Bringing this one up from the dead. My parking brake only grabs at the very end of the pedal towards the floorboard. I don’t recall if the pedal ratchets but can someone point me in the right direction on what to look for first? I’ll check the cables but like I said, it grabs at the very end but it’s pretty weak. I can put it in Drive with the parking brake on it and it barely holds itself in place.

 

The brake should be self adjusting if everything's working. The attached pdf has a lot of good tips. Also, try this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXMGzdA4aKM

 

Mine was not self adjusting. I had to take up slack from underneath the driver's side cable connection thingy first. Greased all moving parts. Then adjusted the star adjusters via the peep hole. Finally adjusted the forward/rear braking bias towards the rear a bit. Now braking is much more solid and the parking brake engages.

 

Important and often overlooked. Not in FSM. Equalizer has two plastic bushings. Mine were torn up. Inspect, lube, replace bushings if needed.

 

@SouthPaw this seems this is a fairly common issue reported by many of us Tundra owners. My parking brake when depressed to the floor would not keep the vehicle from rolling on a slight hill in neutral. For this reason I recently inspected, disassembled, cleaned, and re-lubed appropriate areas as the previous owner/mechanic who serviced the rear drum brakes didn't do a proper job. I found there was a decent gap between the bellcrank and backing plate on the drive side, and return spring was located in the incorrect hole/position causing interference with the adjuster.

Consider checking out these 2 threads I recently discovered when researching how to properly inspect and adjust the rear drum brakes as you may find them insightful as I did.
2006 Tundra E-Brake Slack
E- brake cable slack

Here is another link to some documentation I found in another thread here but can't remember or else I would give them credit.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10zh-bA9jFd-T5XxbKRhGXfSf29dRT2fS/view

 

1. Make sure the shoes are adjusted correctly
2. Make sure the Bell Cranks are not seized, and adjusted per the FSM
then...
3. Lubricate and adjust the cables and pivot points

 

My cables are hanging loose

 

There are a few other Parking Brake Adjustment Threads on here in the 1st Gen Section. Seek those out and follow the directions per the Factory Service Manual Guide. Basically, the PB is responsible for resetting and maintaining your rear drums tolerances. You’ll crawl under the truck and follow the directions. Might take a few trial and errors, but you’ll figure it out and be glad you did. Often overlooked is the ‘Equalizer’ in the picture above and is not listed in the FSM Guide for ajustings.

 

Would this make my brakes hit the floor?

 

I don’t understand. Please explain more.

 

Sorry English is my 3rd language. Would the loose cables cause my brake pedal to be soft?

 

Are you talking about your emergency brake pedal or your regular brake pedal.

 

Both

 

Sounds like you have a leaking wheel cylinder

 

Loose Cables will make your truck NOT allow the Rear Drum Brakes to self adjust. The self adjustment is critical to keeping the rear brakes in tune/optimized for its best braking.

Your Soft Pedal could be from air in brake lines, old brake fluid, worn pads on all brakes, etc.

Its really hard to diagnose over the internet.

Are you able to work on your vehicle or do you take it to somebody?


Most mechanics can fix the old brake fluid and pads, but they get lost on the Tundra Rear Drum Adjustment. Maybe print that Manual Page for them if thats where you are taking it. Remind them about the Equalizer.

 

Yes, the parking brake adjusts the rear drums and that impacts how the pedal feels and how quickly it engages.

 

Thanks much !

 

Last night I heard a high pitched "tinny" sounding metal-on-metal scraping noise. It only happened when the wheels were rolling, not an engine noise. It was not a drone or a groan like a bad wheel bearing. I started reading up on what it could be and came to this thread. I've owned this truck for only a few months, but I know the previous owner was religious about using the p brake, as am I.

Is it possible the p brake needs to be adjusted/ lubed? Can it get partially stuck in place? No slack in my cable going across the axle. Pedal works well and feels as it should.

I woke up this morning and took it for a drive around the block. I started the truck, released the p brake, put it in D, and once I started moving forward, for a split second, there was the metallic scraping noise, but then it went away entirely. Am I on the right track here?

 

Check your front dust shields. They are easily bent and can make contact with the rotors. The sound it makes when they rub is much like you are describing.

 

While driving, slowly apply the parking brake until the noise goes away. If you come to a stop, then check out the backing plates for wear.

 

Roger, I'll check that out, thanks @Mustanley @Sirfive

 

Exactly this issue, right here, with pics: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3576981

But ....

Also, potential wheel bearing, see: https://www.tundras.com/threads/met...iper-or-wheel-bearing-videos-attached.145025/

Could also be stuck brake piston inside your caliper. Jack up front of truck with p-brake on, from front/center x-member, spin front wheels, does either one stick at any point in rotation?

 

Those ‘could also be’s really add up. We need more data.

 

Totally, it's really a wild multitude. So many rotational components at play, many adjacent to non-moving pieces that could cause a scrape.

Ultimately, I'd start by trying to isolate:

• Is it linked to the wheels spinning, or the driveshaft spinning?
• If driveshaft, you know it's in the driveline, probably u-joint
• If wheels, is it front wheels or rear?
• If front wheels, I'd spin with truck jacked while it's dead-cold, and see if you hear the sound, try to pinpoint. If hesitation/grab in one section of rotation, probably caliper. If it just happens all the time, I'd look at brake pads, dust shield and check for bearin play/slop. This could be something as stupid as "it's the dummy squealers, dummy!"
• If rear wheels, probably bearing, maybe worn shoes.

 

Looks like I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... thanks @shifty`