Converting Transfer Case to Manual Controls

I have had a lot of grief with electronic shift on my 2012 5.7 4x4 Tundra. I am seriously considering ripping out the electric actuators and fitting this: https://jb-custom-fabrication.mysho...-cable-shifters/products/np205-ord-magnum-box
I figure to cable to control the transfer case and one for the ADD.

Has anyone done this to a Tundra?

 

DO IT! Subscribed!

 

God that'd be so nice. I hate electronic tcases. Personally I wouldn't buy that one you linked because probably nothing will convert over. The tcase side accommodations wont work, the cab side wont work, and it's triple sticks which at most you probably need twin sticks (4wd, and what range). So I think you'd throw out most of that $300, and end up just keeping two cables and two sticks which you could buy or make for way less.

 

I’m considering the 3 stick version, as it would give one for 2wd/4wd, one for hi/lo, and one for the front axle. I believe the cab end would work, with a small opening in the floor, for the cables and a grommet. The one I am looking at mounts on the floor, rather than in the floor.
I’m also considering just making my own, as I would have to modify the TC connections anyway.

Another possible vendor: https://www.northwestfab.com/Transfer-Case-Cable-Shifters_c_69.html

 

Did you get this done?

 

I can only guess at what it would cost. Both the T-case and the front diff would need to be converted to accept cables. I think a cheaper solution would be to replace the T-case actuator with something more robust yet still electric. Something like two sealed linear actuators. Then bypass the computer. Nothing like the good old days when you had one lever and manual locking hubs though. Simple is often best.

 

If the electronic / electric 4WD controls are a source of "continuing" / problematic shifting issues, then a manual solution is probably worth the cost and conversion aggravation. Also, if your 4WD usage could be classified as extreme or severe, manual controls, locking hubs and levers might be more reliable when "wheeling". Otherwise, the Toyota electronic system is VERY reliable and robust. I remember the "good old days", and looking back, they weren't so good compared to todays fully automatic 4WD systems.....(ever forget to lock in your hubs?)

 

I sure do miss pulling over in the snow on some of the super narrow highways around here to get out to lock the hubs with traffic whizzing by.

 

I remember those days

 

Never. When the first snow hit, I'd lock the hubs and keep them locked until the last threat of snow. I prefer a t-case with a manual shift. I don't trust an electric one with a light telling me it's engaged or not. Not a perfect analogy but would you trust an idiot light for oil pressure or if it's about to overheat? There's no doubt it's in 4WD when you throw a lever into gear.

 

then, converting to levers and cables and manual hubs is just for guys like you.....mechanically oriented craftsmen can make it happen (whether they can buy a conversion or craft their own, see post #1)....for the rest of the MILLIONS of us, turning a dial or pushing a button will suffice. Or buy something else.

 

I don't mind the auto locking hubs. I've had two 4X4's like that. I don't like turning a knob and hoping it engages. I've read plenty of threads about the electric actuator problems on Tundras. I've never had an issue with a manual transfer case.

 

because....the "hubs" on your Tundra, Tacoma, and many other makes, don't auto lock or unlock! They are mechanically connected to the axle shafts and engaged by Toyota's ADD in the differential at the same time the ADD shifts the transfer case. Only on earlier model Toyota's w/o ADD could you have free wheeling hubs.
Ford (some models - Super Duty's) has an interesting twist to their electronic 4WD.... their hubs can be manually locked, or they will lock via vacuum actuator, but still use electric actuators to control their transfer case and differential disconnects.

 

My last Chevy and Dodge 4X4's both had actuators to lock or unlock the hubs. The Dud was vacuum and the Chev was electric. They both had manually shifted t-cases. My last Ford was manual everything in the drive line. My two previous Toyota 4X4's were both with manual hubs and t-cases
Just saying what my preference is all.

 

I would be totally happy with the front diff permanently engaged and manual controls on the tcase, saving a fraction of a mpg is not of a concern to me. I've had multiple times now where the abs line got ripped, or there was a cut in the abs line sheathing and corrosion destroyed the wire, etc. I've never had issues with the actuators themselves, besides being painfully slow at times, it's the utterly stupid computer logic that disables 4wd or shifting in/out of low range that I hate.

 

I did get it done. It works great!
I’ll put together some pictures and do a write-up soon.

 

What back when the auto hubs would lock in when you shifted into 4wd and the axle inside the hub started to spin. The problem was it would unlock then lock back in if you shifted into reverse and you couldn't shift in and out of 4wd while on the highway. Those old manual hubs just required some planning ahead. If driving down the interstate at 55 with them unlocked and your rear tires started to spin 4wd wasn't going to save you. At the same time if you did have them locked in all you needed to do was grab that lever and pull it. No delay while waiting for a computer to decide. Also if the rear wheels are spinning the front diff may not fully engage on the new style where as on the old trucks you just pulled harder. Finding a lever right next to the sifter (back when sticks were common) is much easier than finding a knob on the dash to turn when in a panic.

 

That's why I kept them locked all through winter, sometimes even a little before and after. It never hurt anything to drive that way.

 

What about trying to take the manual shifter from the new 4runner and swapping iin those components, that could potentially fit better or maybe paired with the 4Runner TC and it might be plug and play?

 

Looking forward to pictures and your write-up! I once did a manual conversion on a '93 Ford full-size Bronco. That was easy, though, because while some Broncos came with an electric t-case, others came with a manual. So it was just a matter of finding a manual t-case, linkages and shifter from a salvage yard and slapping it all together. Curious to hear about your project!

 

Didn't the FJ's have levers? Wonder what all FJ parts might come in handy or could be adapted for the lever system.

I'll definitely watch this forum thread.

 

My last Ford 4X4, a 94, was all manual, even the hubs. It came with a Mazda built 5 speed from the factory which a seriously weak link in the driveline, especially behind a 5.0L V8. It was already on it's second one and failing again when I got it. I swapped in a 5 speed from a 3/4 ton, a ZF and it was an easy bolt in. The, internal to the bellhousing, concentric clutch slave was another horrible thing I ended up dealing with later. I got rid of that POS truck before it completely failed.

 

I had a love/hate relationship with mine. It was great - when it would start and run without breaking down. It was perfect for hauling the kids and dog around, camping and off-roading with its short wheelbase and great turning radius. But before my BIL bent the frame and totaled it, mine went through two transmissions - the E4OD. The piece of junk transmissions Ford would put in their trucks is almost criminal. I replaced them myself in my driveway with salvaged ones as I cursed Ford not only for their poor quality trans but also for how difficult they made it to work on. Jeep and Toyota were far better at allowing access to parts and bolts than Ford was. I don’t know how Ford is now, but sadly my Tundra is a bit harder to work on than my old 92 4Runner and 1st gen Tacomas. But I guess that’s how things are now with newer computerized tech a fuel/mileage/emissions requirements.

 

The '94 was mostly very easy to work on when you didn't break three more items that were in the way to the one you were fixing.. The transmission/transfer case bolts were easily accessible but very awkward and heavy to lift back into place.

 

@smiffy6four
Any news on this? Looking to do it myself as my 2007 stop switching on a snow trip. It really put us in a pickle. One hour drive in took four hours and a lot of winching to get back out.
I'm not too concerned with the hardware side of things. But, mostly interested in how the electrical system possible problems and how you overcame them. Thanks