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RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by RainMan_PNW, Oct 30, 2020.

  1. Dec 28, 2020 at 9:09 AM
    #151
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    There are quite a few options just kinda depends on your style and how much effort you want to put into it. I thought about doing custom rail drops and using the tonneaumate before I got the toolbox. Or putting a toolbox on sliders so it slides in and out from under the canister. Good luck!
     
  2. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:13 PM
    #152
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Ordered a MESO Customs red TRD push start button along with an AJT black start button trim ring to make my push-to-start all my own.
    Also ordered the MESO 4x4 trim (it just replaces the chrome) in red, but they mixed up and sent me a start button trim so now I'm waiting for the 4x4 trim to get here (they were great about sending out the new one once I discovered it).

    One thing to note - I was thinking the space to the right of the TOW button would be perfect for fitting one more switch in there with a custom cut hole and a 3D printed "port" epoxied to the back. Unfortunately, that's a NO GO. The back side in that perfect spot happens to be where one of the clips that holds that trim piece in place is located. So I'm probably back to using the CN Designs (or one I print myself) setup in the little wasted tray behind the shifter.

    MESO.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
  3. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:17 PM
    #153
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    AJT Cup Holder and Shifter Trim Rings (black with red hardware) also complete. I used a 1/4" forstner drill bit to pop the plastic welds on the shifter trim, but parts of the actual trim were also melted in there. There won't be any going back without buying a whole new center piece...but I like it.
    I'm just OCD enough I lined up the flat of the hex on each cap screw to be parallel to the nearest edge. Yes, that's why they call me RainMan.
    IMG_0874.HEIC.jpg
     
  4. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:25 PM
    #154
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    AJT Climate Control knobs (black) and Climate Knob Rings (Red) also installed. With the dual zone, you don't have to worry about clocking on the knobs, which is nice. I've got TVD vinyl letters to install too, but I'll be doing that when I pull this back out to install my anytime camera.
    IMG_0875.HEIC.jpg

    UPDATE 1/9/21 - I decided the red was a bit much, so I swapped out to black.

    Update 5/6/21 - I swapped the knobs out to the factory ones, only painted to match the cerakote tungsten color. I struggled with how much of the “useable” knob was lost to the front chamfer on these.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2021
  5. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:29 PM
    #155
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    TucsonTundra1794 and Drainbung like this.
  6. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:38 PM
    #156
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Finally, installed the factory SR-grade BLACK trim for the radio surround/center dash and the out vents.
    Original thread by VoyagerMike here.
    Part numbers:
    • CENTER PANEL - TOYOTA (55405-0C020-C1)
    • AIR OUTLET - TOYOTA (55680-0C050-C0) x2
    Install involved pulling a LOT of things apart, but after doing the 2008 - to - 2010 JBL upgrade in my previous truck, I wasn't afraid of tearing the dash apart. I didn't get any real "in progress" photos, but the finished product is below.

    The AJT Shift Gate Trim Ring is also installed below.

    I also have AJT Red vent trim rings, but am not sure if I want to install them or stick with the OEM black. Also have an AJT red overlay for the steering wheel emblem, but not sure I want the red there. I just ordered one in Lunar Rock as well to see which I like better...or if I want to try yet another color instead. :notsure:

    IMG_0872.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_0884.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_0882.HEIC.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
  7. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:44 PM
    #157
    Minarets

    Minarets New Member

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    Did you paint the silver air vent trim pieces on both sides of the Nav? Looks good darker. I have a quote in now with my buddies vinyl wrap guy to see how much to wrap it.
     
  8. Dec 29, 2020 at 7:49 PM
    #158
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    The big black piece (replaces the big silver piece) is a factory part that comes from the SR trim level. It is black, but with a slight "glitter" to it. The vent rings themselves are also factory from the SR trim. The two in the middle of the silver piece come with it, and the outer two (all the same part number) can be bought separate. Not cheap ($200-ish for the middle piece and $70-ish each for the two vents).
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2020
  9. Dec 29, 2020 at 9:01 PM
    #159
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    SE Toyota Factory Bed Lights (finished 1/16/21)

    The factory bed lights run a harness from the rear passenger side of the truck up through the grommet under the front passenger seat (which is why Toyota lists this add-on as incompatible with the factory power tailgate lock that runs through the same grommet) and then across the inside of the cab to tie into the cargo light switch. With this configuration, the bed lights come on whenever the cargo light comes on...which is a great way to reduce the likelihood of the bed lights being left on by accident but also means that you will have bed lights any time your cargo lights are on (not really necessary).

    So, I decided to add another level of switching in there by adding a cut-off switch at the back of the bed. Then I can leave the bed lights off ALL the time, but if I want them on, I simply activate the cargo lights and then turn on the switch in the bed. In my previous 12 years of owning a Tundra, I've never had a time I wanted bed lights that I didn't already/also have my cargo light on.

    Parts:
    I had the connectors (along with a really nice crimping tool for doing these type of connectors) from previous projects on my 2008. I like things to look factory, so when I did my Pop-N-Lock on my 2008 tailgate, I re-did the camera connector to use a 6-pole connector set and moved the wiring into those (I'm tempted to do the same thing with the factory tailgate lock on this truck too). Between that and my OEM radio upgrade, I got good at re-terminating factory wiring connectors. Note that "Male" and "Female" for these plugs refers to the actual wire terminal pins/holes, not the shape of the plug itself.

    Process:
    I was worried when I first started that the two separate connectors (one for driver side and one for passenger side light) were "home-runned" back to inside the cab. After de-looming about a foot of the harness, I found the splice point where the power and ground coming from the cab (remember, this uses the cargo light circuit for both feeds) split. So adding my switch simply means cutting the red wire BEFORE that splice point and then running either side of that cut into/out of the switch I am adding, and this saved me de-looming the entire exterior to home-run two new wires for the extra switch. Also, for reference, the two factory plugs on this main harness are both Sumitomo TS-090 6189-0249 2-pole Female Connectors.
    IMG_0862.HEIC.jpg

    On the harness coming from the DRIVER'S SIDE light, the male plug (originally a 2-pole model 6188-0266) needs to be replaced with the MALE 4-pole plug above. De-terminating these plugs takes some patience, and a little research, and some fidgeting, but I'm not going to explain all of that here. Be careful, be smart, and be prepared to screw one up in the process of learning how (order spare parts, spare pins, and some spare sealing plugs just in case). I moved the two pins into the same respective order (as the passenger side light), but in the top row. I'll be adding the switch wires to this connector later.
    IMG_0864.HEIC.jpg

    Next, cut the power lead (red wire) behind the splice in the main harness, and solder/heat-shrink in two pig-tails long enough to line up with the existing wires when everything is folded over and re-aligned. De-terminate one of the 2-pole female connectors, and plug the two original terminals in so they match up with the positions used for them on the Driver's side light plug. Install terminals on the two pigtails you just soldered on, and plug them into the other two spots (orientation on these doesn't really matter).
    IMG_0865.HEIC.jpg

    Then, tuck all those wires back into the wire loom and tape that end all back up nice and tidy.
    IMG_0866.HEIC.jpg

    Now, because my truck didn't come with the power tailgate lock, I will be installing it at the same time. And since I didn't want to punch a new hole in the grommet for one or the other, I decided to DE-LOOM the entire cabin side of this harness (it's the less complex of the two) and then feed it through the cab grommet using the loom in the other grommet. That involved removing electrical tape from roughly 12 feet of loom, making two small openings in the tape on the other loom, cutting off the fuse holder in the bed light power wire, fishing the bed light wires through the other loom to get through the grommet, re-soldering the fuse holder back onto the power feed wire, and then RE-LOOMING the entire 12 feet from the point immediately on the cab side of the grommet (the tailgate lock loom runs to the passenger side junction). That's a lot of tape removal, and a lot of re-looming and tape application. Here's Jack Jack giving me a hand with that de-looming process.
    IMG_0867.HEIC.jpg

    Finally (for now), since this will follow the same route as the tailgate lock wiring, I wrapped the two looms together from the grommet to close to the rear termination to make routing and wire-tying easier. Here's the finished "master loom" ready for install when I get some time to do it.
    IMG_0868.HEIC.jpg

    Update 1/9/21:
    Made some progress today. Figured out where I’ll mount the switch, so I could figure out how much to leave “forked” from the driver’s side bed light harness, and then worked on getting it all set up for install.

    Soldered leads onto the switch.
    3009C288-E052-4168-BCBE-FC9CB0DCE19C.jpg

    Then de-loomed and re-loomed the driver’s side light harness (it’s 8 feet or so long!) I left 12” of extra from the light harness to the switch to allow for placement of it at the back of the bed stake pocket.
    53FB5CBB-FB54-4F70-952A-8AD5B62EDB9F.jpg
    upload_2021-1-9_22-17-3.jpg

    Then attached terminals to the other ends and added them to the 4-pole connector. I’ll hook it up to some power and test the whole thing before I actually start the install just to be sure it’s all working as expected.
    upload_2021-1-9_22-18-11.jpg

    Finally, I wrapped the pigtail from the light to the switch in just electrical tape to keep it a bit more flexible for final routing.
    upload_2021-1-9_22-19-35.jpg

    Update 1/16/21:
    Finished it!
    Mounted the lights in the bed first, dropping the harnesses down through the holes I drilled previously and securing the grommet. I then installed the top screw, adjusted the light to be straight, and drilled and installed the bottom screw.
    IMG_1068.HEIC.jpg

    With that done, I figured out where I wanted to mount my manual override switch. I drilled the hole (3/8"), de-burred and sealed with some paint, and then mounted the switch (which required pulling the drivers side taillight to access the back side of the switch).
    IMG_1071.HEIC.jpg

    Routing the wiring required dismantling half the cab! The instructions said to leave the rear seat bolts loose, but I found it easier to just pull them and lean the seats back fully. The console had to be unbolted and popped loose (not fully removed though), so this was a good time to make some tweaks to the safe (see later post). The wiring weaves all other the cab following existing harnesses to get from the passenger grommet (where it is entering with the tailgate power lock wiring as well) over to the driver's side kick ECU/JB and cargo light switch. I also used this as an opportunity to swap out the spade connectors on for my 12v jack and my 12v-to-5v USB power converters (see those posts for details).
    IMG_1069.HEIC.jpg

    I didn't get any pictures of routing under the truck - it was pretty straight forward. There was about 12" extra length in the harness or so, but I was able to tuck it up near the back and wire tie it in. I also dropped the spare tire to better access everything in the rear to get things all routed clean.

    And, with everything routed and cable tied and put back together, it checks out perfectly!
    IMG_1073.HEIC.jpg

    So, the switch in the bed will normally be OFF (it's a click-button switch like a ball point pen), so the bed lights aren't on. When I want the bed lights on, they are powered FIRST by the cargo light circuit (so the cargo light must be on), and THEN also by the switch in the bed. As long as the cargo light is on, I simply push the switch tucked up behind the bed cover drain tube and I have light in the bed.

    Update 3/23/21:
    Uploaded a customized Cargo Light EWD showing how the lights and switch are set up using the instructions plus the added switch, as well as what I tapped for running the tow mirror reverse flood lights. The part numbers of the connectors I used are listed on the last page of the EWD.
    upload_2021-3-23_8-6-38.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 23, 2021
  10. Dec 29, 2020 at 9:42 PM
    #160
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Relocation of the factory MEDIA/CarPlay port (finished 1/9/21)

    Here is a schematic on what is going to be happening:
    upload_2021-1-9_21-6-47.jpg

    My plan is to move the FUNCTION of the port to inside the center console, but not move the actual port because it's a unique shape (compared to all other Toyota blanks) and has a unique connector for it as well. Associated with that, I will be putting a two-port USB port in the console in place of the factory cigarette lighter (blue in the schematic). One port will use an INPUT adapter cable to connect it to the back of the factory HU using the correct factory plug (purple in the schematic). The other port will connect to a 12V-5V 2-port USB power converter to provide charging-only on that port in the console (black w/ red & black lines for power in the schematic). Finally, the other port on the USB power converter will connect to a RETENTION adapter cable that then feeds back to the factory media plug port (green in the schematic), which makes the factory plug now just another charging port. This retains factory look, but hides the CarPlay port in the console for use with a wireless CPlay2Air adapter or for using wired CarPlay but keeping things clean.

    First, for reference, here is the back of the lower panel in the 2020/2021 trucks with CarPlay. From left to right - USB (Media Port), Dual USB (Charging only), Traction Control switch, Empty Blank (plug below it is for the factory sonar/parking assist button - so this tells me we're pre-wired for that), Empty Blank (with the plug for the glass-break sensor plugged into it - we're pre-wired for that as well...just need to buy it and program it in Techstream if you want it), and then the power/cigarette lighter.
    IMG_0873.HEIC.jpg

    Next, the parts I'm using:
    A note on the USB cables - I looked for something "on shore" and couldn't find anything I was confident actually worked with the 2020 wiring connectors. I would expect companies like Metra or PAC or Maestro to have something, but what I was seeing listed on their sites didn't leave me warm and fuzzy that the connectors worked with the current stereos (they would list "2016+ and such, and I know this connector doesn't match the 2019 and older trucks). These ones took a couple weeks (close to 3 really) to get to me from China...but they were also reasonably priced compared to something domestic.

    Since I had to have my radio out to swap out the center dash surround, but my wife was already mad I wasn't working on house projects, I was pressed for time and only got the installation partway complete. In this photo, you can just see the "retention" cable (male usb) against the foam with one of the female USB ports from the power converter plugged into it. The black cable on the right of that is the "input" cable fished out through the opening behind all the factory ports.
    IMG_0876.HEIC.jpg

    As things sit right now (12/29/20), the power converter is just tucked into the empty space and not connected to anything. And my wireless CPlay2Air adapter is plugged into the INPUT cable and it is stuffed into that empty space right now as well. And the wireless adapter has been working for three days like that just fine (so the cable is working). I'll get more pictures when I have things opened back up for the Anytime camera install and get this post updated then.

    Update 1/9/21 - I managed to get this finished and buttoned up.
    I pulled the drivers knee panel off to get some access to the area to the left of the center surround, and also pulled the shifter trim, lower switch blank area, and AC controller. With all of that pulled, I could get to the factory plug in the console, so I removed it (carefully push out the little black tab from inside the socket to free the socket from the housing, then pop the housing out to get an open hole in the console. The two-USB plug is a touch tight for the opening, but I managed to get it pushed into there and seated fully.
    upload_2021-1-9_21-15-35.jpg

    36441339-F61F-4F5F-B683-248874E8BE92.jpg

    Back in the area behind the AC / below the radio, I managed to find some kind of route into/out of there. Once the driver knee panel was dropped, and my start button panel was pulled loose, I pulled the back clip pin for the side trim on the lower console area. The wires that originate in the radio/AC area I found one of two routes out of that area to the side to get them into the edge of the driver “cockpit” area, then tucked them behind the back of the lower console trim and found a little spot to tuck them in between the metal dash frame and the plastic dash frame and all the heater ductwork.
    91B46CC2-0BEF-4047-81B7-0E871A974FD5.jpg

    Here is a close-up of where the wires routed. The green is the media/CarPlay USB cable that originated behind the radio (purple in my original schematic). The red is the second USB cable from the console, which will plug into the power adapter to become a charing port.
    D4616CA4-7395-45F8-9A89-811B875E100B.jpg

    Now that I had a route for things, I needed to make power pigtails for the 12v-5v adapter. Since I was “decommissioning” the original socket in the console, I wanted to use that power for the new adapter instead. I figured out the length of wire I would need, then soldered up some pigtails.
    B911B556-DEC4-458D-B2B9-FE5C281836DD.jpg

    Using the same logic as when I did the USB port in the back, I had to shave down the width on the positive spade (only trimming from one side). Then, I used some electrical tape to loom the thing up to make for a more tidy install.
    9450FC8B-F1F1-4B87-9AB2-6819CD058D81.jpg

    Back in the truck, I used some 3M tape to stick the converter to the duct/heater box. The power wires I fished out along the same route as the CarPlay USB cable. The two USB ports off the power adapter get tucked up in the area by the adapter - one plugged into the male USB port you see in this photo (which will provide power to the original CarPlay port). If this power adapter ever shits the bed on me, I’ll replace it and use bullet connectors to the two longer power wires so that I don’t have to re-loom and re-fish this thing through there...but I’m hoping it holds up.
    12C441EF-74DC-428B-ABC3-DE0045604D8A.jpg

    Once the power wires were routed, I plugged them into the original console plug, and then got everything tidied up, wire tied, and adjusted to put all the trim back together.
    D50AE778-8FB1-400D-89F0-6F11DA8B5B08.jpg

    Then put all the dash parts back together, turn on the truck, and check function!
    • I’ve got charging-only power at the original factory Media/CarPlay port
    • The lower USB port inside the console is the new Media/CarPlay port (confirmed working with iPhone cable, and with CPLAY2AIR wireless adapter)
    • The upper USB port inside the console is another charging only power port
    38C3C0D2-96DB-4310-BA42-AB69070B0143.jpg

    DBCFD6EE-FE36-4B45-B530-6463ADAEA8DD.jpg

    Notice there’s no wires showing, but I’m using CarPlay!
    upload_2021-1-9_21-57-57.jpg

    Update 1/16/21
    I was in the local Parkrose Hardware (an Ace on steroids) and came across these crimp connectors. The blade is the perfect width to fit the positive socket in the factory plug. I just had to file off the little nubs at the back to get the full length, but it is a solid piece so it is a much better fit that the original one.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I had the console apart to route the factory bed light wiring, so I swapped the plug out with one of these today.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2023
  11. Jan 1, 2021 at 9:19 AM
    #161
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    :popcorn:
    Your truck is looking good!
    So, the SR dash piece wasn't a nightmare to install?
     
  12. Jan 1, 2021 at 9:45 AM
    #162
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Nightmare?
    No... it looks worse than it is once you break it down. I had dismantled my 2008 dash to do the Auto-AC upgrade, and this process is very similar (a little different). The one member on here has (I forget his name - he’s got a very BLUE fishing boat in his YouTube videos) has done great videos on the process of pulling it all apart, though there are a few places you can short cut a little. Having done it once now, I bet I could do it again in 30 minutes.

    The only thing that is a PITA is getting the footwell panels fully clipped back in - the way they designed those is retarded. You have to slide it from the rear forward to clip it into two double-headed body clips, but the ground clamp mount is in front of the upper one.

    I’m tempted to buy a pile of the clips they use and just tear out the old one any time I have to pull the footwell off and then install it with a new clip.
     
  13. Jan 1, 2021 at 9:55 AM
    #163
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Right on, thanks.
    Yeah, he's got great videos. Nitro something I think.
     
    2020Platinum likes this.
  14. Jan 1, 2021 at 10:05 AM
    #164
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    NitroZ18Fishing on YouTube
    @2020Platinum on here.
    Yep - the only thing I found was I didn’t need to fully pull the instrument cluster part. I popped the two pins in the underside of the “hood” and then just pulled the right side out enough that I could get the corner of the center trim free and out. That saves dealing with the little vinyl piece on top of the steering column that can be a bit of a bitch.
     
  15. Jan 1, 2021 at 10:26 AM
    #165
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    Sweet, it's on my list :hattip:

    I've got a handful of parts to order as soon as our parts specialist throws some weight around his dealership.
    :boink: @Roman
     
  16. Jan 1, 2021 at 10:38 AM
    #166
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    I ended up ordering the center console into a local (well, Gladstone) dealer and picking it up. They were a little more on the part, but shipping brought that back down. You might also look at parts.sparkstoyota.com - they have free shipping right now. Or wait for Cool Springs to get their store back online...
     
  17. Jan 1, 2021 at 11:00 AM
    #167
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

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    I've found Sparks is only worth it when they have free shipping so I might go that route.
    Roman hinted at a nice sale when they do open back up, hopefully soon.
     
  18. Jan 2, 2021 at 6:36 AM
    #168
    awq735

    awq735 New Member

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    I cant tell from the picture but do these sit flush with the top of the bed ribs?
     
  19. Jan 2, 2021 at 12:55 PM
    #169
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Clark County, WA
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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Not quite.
    upload_2021-1-2_12-51-17.jpg

    The board is resting across the bed ribs, and the loop of the bracket is ~1/8” or so higher.

    Any time I carry plywood or other sheet goods, I always pick up a couple of 2x4’s for dunnage anyway. And then I use these tie downs to loop ratchet straps over the ends of the sheets and into the side loops at the back of the bed to keep everything nice and secure.
     
    TucsonTundra1794 likes this.
  20. Jan 2, 2021 at 1:13 PM
    #170
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Update 1/29/21:
    I had my original trim pieces cerakoted Tungsten and installed them in place of these.

    Carnage!
    upload_2021-1-2_13-2-45.jpg

    Not really... just pulled the airbag to swap out the steering wheel trim. A few weeks ago, I bought a steering wheel from a wrecked Tacoma with the gunmetal trim. So today I swapped it out.

    Pull the negative cable
    Pop two trim pieces off the back of the wheel (one surrounds the cruise knob)
    Loosen the T30 torx head on each side
    Pull the horn/airbag housing out, then carefully flip upside down through the wheel.

    Two screws hold each switch assembly (left and right), then three screws hold the switches to the trim (careful - they’ll fall apart as soon as the last screw is out of you’re not careful).
    upload_2021-1-2_13-10-50.jpg

    Switched to the different trim (gunmetal on the left, silver on the right)
    upload_2021-1-2_13-7-46.jpg

    Finish the other side, then put everything back together.
    upload_2021-1-2_13-12-26.jpg

    Unfortunately, this used trim has a few little scratches and nicks... not sure if my OCD will be able to handle it. Also not sure if the gunmetal is “not silver” enough yet. I may take my original ones and get them painted or cerakoted when I get my tomahawk shifter done. But for now, at least it’s not silver.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2021
  21. Jan 2, 2021 at 6:36 PM
    #171
    awq735

    awq735 New Member

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    Thanks for the heads up. That is exactly what I was worried about. I have no issue using dunnage at all, but the tie downs will allow me to keep such sheet goods secured. I once lost $120 of paneling due to poor strapping with the factory bed hooks. The worst part about it is when I realized it fell out of the bed I watched someone slowly drive over it completely destroying it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2021
  22. Jan 2, 2021 at 10:35 PM
    #172
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Never lost a load, but wish I’d thought of this mod on my 2008. Very useful. I hook the strap end of my straps to these loops before I load the sheet goods, then criss-cross them to the ratchets on the opposite corners and then I can still tighten them up and know things are well secured.
     
  23. Jan 3, 2021 at 9:09 PM
    #173
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro CM
    Check the build link in my signature.
    Added a few Christmas gifts from my youngest to the truck...

    TVD Vinyl Heritage decals
    EE340826-1F0B-44B2-B20E-ABB8190B92A2.jpg

    TVD Vinyl AC/Dash infill (Scarlet Red)
    upload_2021-1-3_21-13-11.jpg

    TVD Vinyl phone button colors
    upload_2021-1-3_21-21-56.jpg

    I’m not sure I’ll keep the phone button colors...the little “ridge” that the edge of the decal forms sort of bugs me. But for now they’ll help me remember which one is which!
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2021
  24. Jan 3, 2021 at 9:17 PM
    #174
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

    Joined:
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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Also installed the MESO Customs red 4x4 trim...but now I’m thinking I’ve got more red inside than I want.

    So now I’ve got black 4x4 trim ordered from MESO along with black AC knob trim and black vent ring trim from AJT. I’ll probably put the red stuff up for sale here once the black stuff arrives.

    And, I took a drive with the Mrs. today and got to spend some time with the gunmetal steering wheel trim...I think I’m gonna keep it. If the little bit of defects it has really get to me, I might order a brand new one, but the color seems just about right. Other than the “brushed” lines, it’s really close to the color on the radio and AC control trim.

    Finally - anyone know how the hell to get wires down from behind the AC controls to the space down by the shifter? I feel like it’s a solid wall of plastic back there. I need to fish a USB cable through there, along with wires for the Anytime camera, and relocating my rear window switch eventually, but am having a hell of a time getting that route figured out.
     
    TucsonTundra1794 likes this.
  25. Jan 4, 2021 at 6:44 AM
    #175
    CrashRat

    CrashRat New Member

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    Greg
    Vancouver, WA
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    Work in progress
    @RainMan_PNW - great looking build! You've given me lots of great ideas for my own. Just ordered my AJT cement/black key fobs, in specific. I couldn't believe how stupid the fobs look on the 21's. Might as well be from a 90's Lincoln lol.

    This tool might be perfect for getting wires where you need them -

    https://www.crutchfield.com/p_042DM4533/Pro-Fit-Wire-Worm.html

    I've used it all over my truck. It's just the right combination of flat, flexible and stiff. If anything is going to find you a route around your heater box, this is it.

    Good luck, and keep the great posts coming!
     
    bulldog93 and RainMan_PNW[OP] like this.
  26. Jan 6, 2021 at 5:32 PM
    #176
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
  27. Jan 6, 2021 at 8:47 PM
    #177
    FFFvamos

    FFFvamos New Member

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    Truck looks great and seems like it’s been keeping you busy. Haha
     
    RainMan_PNW[OP] likes this.
  28. Jan 6, 2021 at 9:15 PM
    #178
    CCLJ03

    CCLJ03 Tundra forever

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    Colorado
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    @RainMan_PNW any news in that Taco leather steering wheel!? Would love to entertain taking that off your hands if it’s in good shape.
     
  29. Jan 6, 2021 at 9:27 PM
    #179
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW [OP] SSEM #82 RGBA #4 “That Guy” Vendor

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    You're too late - it went up for sale here in the Market and sold within a day to a member up north of Seattle.
    Sorry - wish I had another!
     
  30. Jan 7, 2021 at 4:24 AM
    #180
    thetastelingers

    thetastelingers Master Baiter

    Joined:
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    Soddy Daisy, TN
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    2021 MGM CM Sport
    In process
    Were you able to finish the install of your Media and USB ports?

    I am interested in doing the same thing with the port and am interested in the parts you purchased. When I click on the link for the input and retention cable, it takes me to a random Alliexpress page. Could you post some part numbers, so I can find them?

    Thanks man!
     
    Baja Fundra likes this.

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