2003 tundra 4.7 headers

Hello all! I know there are already several threads on long tube headers for my truck, but still had a few questions. Looking for some more performance for fun, and to help pull bigger tires. First, i see jba mentioned a lot are they the way to go? Next if i am going to spend 600 dollars, a solid day, and a lot of teeth grinding it sounds like is it worth it? I usually install everything myself but are these something I would want to get done, and about how much would an exhaust shop charge to do that? Also if i decide to go for it, what is good prep work i should do, or any specialist tools i need? Thanks in advance! Also the reason for this is pretty bad ticking on stock manifold. I have pretty much made up my mind on longs instead of shorties because if i am going to all the work might as well go for the most performance.

 

Welcome to the forum! I hear the long tubes add some noticeable torque. The job is a bit of a bear, I'm sure the labor hours are up there to have a shop replace them. Perhaps someone here with experience can chime in.

 

Welcome Wes. First, start by making sure some of that ticking noise isn't coming in from your steering shaft seal. I was having the same issue and it's because of that seal. Many have reported the same thing. Click here.

2nd, to answer you question, a shop is likely going to charge you a lot for this job as it's time intensive. I was quoted 7 hours at $90/hour. When I eventually do headers I'm doing it myself.

3rd, you might find some helpful info in this thread.

Lastly, others reported that removing the bolts for the engine mounts and jacking it up will save you a lot of time. Others reported they didn't need to do this. Personally, those bolts are really rusty on my truck so I'm not going to try it. Having a universal joint and some extension bars will make the job easier.

@Thrussn has done the job so many times now he's practically a pro. Maybe he has some tips.

 

Are you re-geared for the bigger tires?

 

Thank you guys for your help so far. I am not re-geared. Someday hopefully! Good to know ill have to take a look at my motor mounts. Anyone on the best brand to get for the money?

 

What size tires do you have? I re-geared and it helps.

 

305/70/17s I am going to go to a 285/75/17 soon. Yeah i am sure it does my dad re-geared his and it was pretty significant. That’s like 2k for front and rear diff though.

 

I just got scheduled with an exhaust shop to have headers installed on 1/13/2021. My first issue was finding a shop that would install customer provided parts. I was surprised that my first choice for the work turned me away because the owner refused to install anything provided by the customer. At least the tech I talked to gave me another recommendation so that's where I took my business. The new shop quoted me $80 an hour but hasn't seen the truck or parts yet so he can't give me an estimate.

I went with the Doug Thorley headers - the design is sort of in between a shorty and long tube, if there is such a thing. It requires cutting the flanges and some pipe length from the catted mid pipes and welding on new flanges which mate to the header collectors. The finish quality on these headers is really very nice. I'm also having them cut out the stock muffler and weld in a single inlet, dual outlet SS Spintech 3000XL muffler and add another tail pipe to the rear drivers side matching the factory pipe on the passengers side. I'm guessing the labor will be somewhere between $600 and $1K. I also got OEM manifold gaskets, 16 locking exhaust nuts and a couple extra studs in case some break.

The passenger side manifold is leaking on mine and that's why I'm now doing headers like you.

These install notes from Doug Thorley may be of some help. They recommend using mid-length sockets on the mainfold nuts.

 

@Mustanley be sure to get a sound clip of that and post it when you can. Curious how the 3000xl sounds.

 

I was planning on it... already recorded the pre-upgrade sound clips for the before and after comparison. I'll add it to your sticky thread.

 

Cool. Thanks a lot. Those install notes helped some. Will be interested to hear how it goes. If i go for it, i will also throw it on the thread.

 

Just keep in mind that long tubes aren't a plug n play install. You'll need to modify the remainder of the exhaust for things to fit properly.

Installation, from the book on shorties, is quoted at 14hrs. Most shops are in the 80-120/hr range. Not all shops will use the book for the hours and estimate themselves which will be helpful. For shorty headers, that are direct bolt-on, most people seem to have those done in 4-8hrs. I did them myself (shorty) and it went fairly easily but I have to think some of that is due to the lift of my truck. If I didn't get a good deal on my JBA shorty headers (and I had a crack in the stock) I wouldn't go with them over long tubes. Buy once - cry once.

 

Good info thanks!

 

I bit the bullet and bought the jba long tubes ceramic coated on urd. Not sure when they are gonna be here yet but i will let y’all know how the installation goes and how noticeable it is.

 

Scheduled for arrival on Thursday so i will be getting gaskets, and a few extra studs from Toyota in case i break any. I will start spraying everything in pb blaster in advance lol. Anything else i should do in prep?

 

I have Doug Thorley Shortys (cant do long tubes in CA).

Shop had a very had time installing, I was quoted $700 in labor and this was years ago. I didn't want to deal with any stuck bolts or sheared studs, glad I paid.

Torque increase was noticeable but not overly significant, would not do unless manifold is cracked. Also, my steering shaft gasket was blown out (didn't know before hand) and did headers for no reason (oh well).

If I didn't live in a smog specific state I would do long tubes all the way but as others have said you need to modify the exhaust, re-cut, re-weld so be ready for that or ready to pay a shop to make that modification for you if needed.

Also did motor mounts after the fact (went with Solid Offroad mounts). HUGE increase in strength but a lot of vibration the cab sitting at stoplights, need to put into neutral for longer sits.

I would do motor mounts (oem or solid offroad) at the same time, access will be SO much easier and quicker.

Let us know how it goes!

 

Okay i installed the headers yesterday when i finally got some time! It took about 7 hours and you do not, i repeat do not have to take off the motor mounts or even one. I used a swivel head ratchet and several variations of 14 sockets and ratchet wrenches. I had to disconnect the steering shaft to get the new header in the drivers side. I had to cut the o2 sensors and butt connect more wire in the middle for them to reach so I didn’t have to buy the extended ones. I sprayed everything in pb blaster before starting the job several times so everything came apart pretty easy and I didn’t break any studs. I used all new nuts and reused the studs. Now comes for the mating to the rest of the exhaust cause the headers are just open right now due to them ending somewhere in the middle of the cats and a new piece to weld in that gap not being provided. I might give some sound clips when done. Only irritating thing is there was a dipstick mount on a little piece of the old manifold and the new header does not have a mount. It is zip tied to a decent place right now so i will have to fab something. Also retorque about 5 times because in the last 2 times i have, I always get a little more.

 

So uhhh any updates on this old thread xD. Currently stalking all the Header threads trying to convince myself that long tubes are stupid and I should not reward my stupidty with happiness

 

Go for it man! They were great! Definitely noticeable gain especially after the rest of the exhaust was done.