What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yep. One thing I was thinking since so many parts should be interchangeable with other 1st gens. Get a V8 4x4 and swap over all the new parts you've put on your tuck. Headlights, suspension, wheels/tires etc, You could make your V6 a farm truck and not have to worry about that frame. You could just swap the parts from the new Tundra over to your V6.

It's your money though. That's just a thought I had since you've already spent so much on your current truck. You could repurpose some of your parts to a different FGT.

 

This was the general idea. Another FGT for part interchanging. Are the Double cab leaf springs the same?

It requires more serious thought

 

Not a good idea if its cold outside

 

I mean heres the list of everything I had planned for my spring time engine refresh...

1. Valve covers gaskets.
2. Cam/crank seals.
3. Timing belt/water pump.
4. Engine flush, and water flush.
5. Refill with aisin red.
6. Check valve adjustments.
7. Replace engine wiring harness. (On hand.)
8. Replace Duralast alternator with TOY OEM. (On hand).
9. Other belts.
10. Power steering flush with Dexron.

I feel like there is more in there that I'm forgetting. Maybe I can pickle this truck until spring time.

I still need to order all of those seals, and the FIPG if applicable. I have the Toy alternator, and the engine harness.

Not sure what Bruce would charge me for labor on the front end suspension refresh. I already have everything on hand except for the tie rod ends, and the sway bar links.

He gave me a damn good price for good work on the rear axle bearings, seals, backing plates, full drum service, and parking brake service.

Maybe now that I've got this tent I could do all this suspension work every other weekend when I'm off. That would save me some moneys.

Sorry for the long posts, I just don't have anyone to bounce truck ideas off of here at la casa.

 

Its 24° here... why I bought a tent to at least bare minimum knock out the wind...

Also, I got big hands...

 

Couple of thoughts...

Take a deep breath

None of the things on the list affect drivability so I'd wait until your feeling up to it. Some days I'm super excited to work on my car, other days I'm not. Unless it's something major, I just wait until I want to do it and then it's enjoyable and the job seems to go better. Many times for me it's therapeutic to work on my truck, but if I'm having an off day it's more like torture.

If you're worried about the tires, buy two cheap tires off craigslist and put them on the front. Treat them like crap and destroy them until you're ready to tackle the lower control arms.

I don't think you need new upper control arms so I'd take that off the list of purchases.

The valve cover gaskets on the 5vz aren't bad to do, but the stupid plenum has to come off and that's like ten thousand bolts.

Any chance you can return the OEM alternator and get one of the aftermarket high output ones?

Take a break from worrying about the truck and come back when you're feeling more ready to tackle it.

We've all felt like throwing in the towel some days and taking it to a shop, but I know for me, when I finally do whatever it was, I'm glad I did. Just take your time.

 

Doing a mock up for when I finally setup a roof rack. The Basket seems kinda skinny for the truck but should more than suffice as itll act obviously as storage space for some trunks and a porch for the RTT.

had to dig a little to figure out how to have a roof rack without drilling besides the certainly pricey options. Seems like a decent amount of people have used Yakima’s Q-tower system with #24s for front and back.

 

Lazy techs. Too bad your not near me or I could do it lol.

 

@Trailscape
Not sure where you got the new airbag and inflator but I don’t think it will work as you need both the black and orange cables. Adding steering whee controls should only involve removing the airbag to get to the wheel’s plastic blanks, installing controls and plugging them into the clock spring and then reinstalling old airbag. Shouldn’t have to remove the bag from the igniter at all.

 

I replaced the OEM rack 3 years ago.... everywhere else looks fine. Just this spot. Have never seen a leak from this area....

 

Well, the chevy didn't start...

Other two vehicles are occupied.

Rolling into work about 65-70 i saw an owl fly up, vatch a mouse, and fly off into the darkness.
https://youtu.be/9xLgilxanNgM?t=60s

 

Pulled the bumper cover because I had broken the lower pass. fender flare off with the tractor a few weeks back. The mounts were on there and looking crappy. Once the cover was off I decided to sand, clean, and bedline it. It was scratched up, pitted, and clear coat peeling. I think it looks much better now. Did the grill while at it, took two cans of duplicolor brand.

I think I'll work my way back and do the fender flares, all black plastic trim, mirrors,a the rear bumper. Happy with it.

Oh and since I was on a level concrete floor. 3/4 corners measure 20 1/2 inches wheel center to fender. The driver's rear measures 20 flat. I replaced one broken leaf in the pass rear pack last week. I'll definitely need to do full leaf packs eventually, but not tonight.

 

Does the stepside have a smaller bed or wider hips? I have never seen one with a shell on it.

 

Bed is narrower. Imagine a regular bed went straight up from where the wheel bumps are on the inside. It fits 4ft wide ply, sheetrock etc perfectly.

 

Got the rear end and everything put back together late last night. I feel good knowing I have those new axle seals. They held overnight at least.

While putting everything together, I also decided to replace that thermostat housing o-ring that was leaking like crazy.
See if you can see something I missed in that pic

It was not fun removing that black gasket maker.
I did the finger tight method and then properly torque it after is sat for an hour. It's holding really good for now even after it's been through a few heat cycles.

 

I'm getting my replacement header welded and super reinforced. I'll have to show you guys a pic of it when it's complete. This one definitely won't crack in the same spot.

I'm also seriously considering doing some weight reduction on the manifolds as well. Here's a pic showing what I mean...

I have some URD simulators on the way so I don't get a CEL if I do this particular mod.

 

gotta get that clamp back in position bro

 

Nope. That right there is a self oiling rust prevention feature.

 

Put some loctite 242 (blue) on the 4 trans crossmember to mount bolts. Hopefully that'll prevent future loosening.

Put my proportioning valve back to original position, after the drum brakes were adjusted it was too much. Only moved it 2 turns up and I could tell it was off. My park brake stops the truck with 3-4 clicks at idle speeds.

 

I just see an open bung on the housing.

 

Found what you missed! TB not cleaned to PHM spec.

 

But the Madagaskin Street Frog might suffer an unbearable plight. I’d keep those for wurrld peas crédïts.

Seriously, I considered this for future reference last year but heard that performance might suffer with removal. The DD Muffler Guy said so himself.

 

I made this video this morning on the way home.
https://youtu.be/1o3KjCrPZm4

I think on youtube you can change the speed of the video, but can't on the forum? All the stops/gos are a little fast, but once you get to the highway section it's not so bad.

I made some conversation last night with the few people that I KNOW have a lifted truck with oversize tires, and the works about where they go to get an alignment.

Most reccomended going to here.



One guy said he didn't bother with alignment because "My set up doesn't need that."

I'll call this place soon. I reckon that if they can work on whatever kinda thing that chevy had going on , they should be able to do mine easy peasy.

Feeling a new sense of hope for the front end.

I wanted to take a minute, and thank @rock climber for helping to ease my mind, and slow my overly hyper brain back down to my "normal."

Also wanted to thank @NUDRAT for making me laugh about the current situation. Its almost like my truck is trying to save its own frame. Saying "Please, save me. I have so many more miles to take you places."

 

This is a pretty good video of what's necessary if the cams are actually seized and you aren't replacing the control arms. Easy to see why new arms are advised over replacing bushing if a shop is doing the work.

 

Do OEM control arms come with the bushing installed?

 

Yes

 

But if you buy aftermarket arms you have to pay to have the bushings pushed on? Is that right?

 

I think the moogs come bush installed.

 

Napa arms reccomended by @empty_lord.