What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The 100A would work just right in his application. The 100A came with the ‘Tow Package’ and will bolt right up.

 

Amps, not watts. Sequoia alternator fits on V8, not sure about V6.

 

I'm not sure about that...he has a 3.4. I don't see a 100A (yes, amps, not watts...thanks for correcting me. I haven't had coffee yet...lol) listed for the 3.4...only the 80A..

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/oem-...0dW5kcmEmeT0yMDAyJnQ9c3I1JmU9My00bC12Ni1nYXM=

I don't think the 100A alternator for the 4.7 is a bolt-on upgrade for a 3.4...

 

Quick Kentucky backwoods meth education electrical math says this, and I might be wrong.

If I am correct me.

Not running engine
35W at 12V is 2.9 Amps.
5.8 Amps with both headlights.

Running engine.
35W at 14V is 2.5 Amps.
5 Amps with both headlights.

Here are the specs provided by superbrightleds.com where I got my headlight resistors. (Picture will be link to part.)

If these specs provided are correct

Not running engine
Projector, and resistor 10.3 Amps.

Running engine
Projector, and resistor 9.5 Amps.

Somebody fact check this Ohms law illiterate guy!

 

Ok you are correct. His 80A should still be fine since his conversion the LED’s. His self induced problem was the HID maxing amp draw. Now, he should be ok with LED’s. Its amazing how switching all the other little bulbs in the truck reduce the overall draw on the alternator.

For fun, I added up all the reductions of each bulb in our trucks (by switching to LED) and figured my alternator would last an additional 7 years and provide 3 mpg more. Seriously, the amp draw is significantly less with LED.

 

Thanks for the link! I'll slap that in my note pad thread. I ordered a reman'd cold weather 80 Amp Toy alternator. Heres the link to the post I made about that.

Its easy to forget the one or two guys active that roll the V6. Easy to assume everyone has the V8. Which makes sense because I think there was one V6 made for every four V8 FGTs.

 

100% correct here.

Now, can someone please fact check my backwoods whiskey still math?

 

No. Our brains hurt right now and it won’t matter anyways.

 

Double Protection...

 

Can you play a song with them? Twiddy twang twang...

 

Crawled under the truck and did an inspection. Silgyde’d the inner rubber boots on the CV. Also, looks like a couple exhaust bolts at the resonator y-connections are getting thin due to rust. The bolts are stout, but the nuts are thinning kinda like the way the o2 Sensors nuts did.

I’ll be researching parts#’s over the weekend.

 

All four O2 sensors the last couple nights. Upstreams were real old, but came out easy. Downstream bank 2 is less than 30k old, but I'll keep it for spare. Bank 1 downstream bung is rotted out and was leaking. Bet you can tell which is which!

Wired in the new one and will get a new bung welded on next week. Running great, looking forward to a little more quiet when that last one gets sealed.

Going clunk hunting in the morning. Mine is not audible, but you feel it like hitting little bumps. It clunks when I start or stop hard. Does not seem to be affected by turning. And can also be felt if I get on or off the gas hard.

Going to put the truck on jack stands and check for play in all suspension and drive line. Also going to check the trans cross member. These are the things the search of the forum has me looking for. Anyone got other ideas?

 

@Arringtonpalmer I think your driveshaft is probably most likely since turning does not recreate the issue, and you say, "It clunks when I start or stop hard. Does not seem to be affected by turning. And can also be felt if I get on or off the gas hard."
Might not hear/feel it on jack stands, but that would be my guess. I'm sure others more knowledgeable than me can chime in.

 

Are you 4wd? Like @Kimosabe said, probably drive shaft, and usually it’s the rear slip yoke, pump that turd with 30 pumps of grease, jump up and down in the bed 7.86 times, then remove that zerk on the slip and allow excess pressure to release, then put zerk back on.

 

Yup, 4wd. I'll give the grease the first try.

7.86 jumps in the bed, do I need to recalibrate that number since I've got a cap on?

 

The downstreams are what they are for now. I’ve given them more attention than planned and I wanted to be doing brakes by now. I couldn’t even melt them off.

 

I’m planning on painting any faded exterior trim a little at a time, so today I started with the wiper blade arms. Also considering painting the chrome emblems and molding, or possibly even blacking out some or all of the chrome (larger parts like bumpers may end up being new parts all together in a matte or semi gloss black finish.) I really like the grille style that @Professional Hand Model chose and may go that route at some point. Any who, here’s a pic halfway through painting today. I’ll add a pic of em installed in the daylight tomorrow.

 

Whilst snapping pics of the storage areas wells, I thought about the little back seat belt thingies and how neat Toyota makes their tuckage. A little sequence shot.

Man, I need to Feather Dust and Polish those rear buckles.

 

Back seat!

What slight of hand is this?

 

What’s a back seat?

 

I went from an 87 Toy P/U Reg Cab so coming into that back seat on the 02 was like a major space enhancement. Just the right size.

 

These look great! What finish did you use?

 

V * A = W, therefore

W / V = A

 

Math is Buenos?

 

dos mas dos equales cinco de mayo.

 

Thanks man! Here’s what I did...Cleaned thoroughly with rubbing alcohol, roughed up surface with 800 grit scotch guard pad (3M brand from auto parts store), 3 light coats of Rustoleum Automotive Acrylic Enamel 2X coverage semi-gloss black and then 2 light of coats of Rustoleum semi-gloss clear coat. I do like how clean it turned out, but it’s a little too much glossy for how I wanted my trim to be so I’m going to go back at it with a bed liner rattle can. I’ll post it when I’m done!

 

It's been my experience with the Tundra that this is the leaf springs being worn out. The wretched drums oft aren't maintained which puts a lot of twisting force on the leaf springs when you're braking (in addition to abusing the front brakes). Over time, that twisting weakens the leaf springs and they wind up when you brake hard. Then, when you accelerate from a stop, they wind the other way suddenly causing the clunk/thump that so many people detest.

Packing the slip joint with grease transfers that force right into your tcase. Seems like a sketchy band-aid despite it being very popular.

I clamped my leafpack to the overload spring at the front of the o/l and my clunk went away immediately. The truck drives so much better.

 

I look into clamping the overloads.

that’s always why I mentioned to remove the zerk to relieve any excess pressure

 

I agree, removing the zerk will prevent pressure from the grease being packed too tightly.
But unless left out, it won't prevent pressure (force transfer) from the axle wrapping/unwrapping. Think of it like a piston or connecting rod and the axle is the crankshaft. You pack grease into the combustion chamber and but don't stop the source of the force. So when it gets slammed up, the grease doesn't compress and that force has to go somewhere.