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Discussion in 'New Member Introductions' started by JOHN NE OHIO, Oct 29, 2020.

  1. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:20 PM
    #1
    JOHN NE OHIO

    JOHN NE OHIO [OP] New Member

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    mechanics wire around exhaust heat shields because of rattles
    Thanks for the invite! On this cold, dark, rainy, north eastern Ohio evening my 2013 Tundra 80K, has shared with me a check engine light! Code P2445 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck Off. (Bank 1) I know the pumps are under passenger fender not sure where the fuse is located? Plan is to wait for daylight, check for power at pumps, check fuse if no power. I do not know where fuse is located? Is pump common problem thought the AIP problems were solved?
     
    Prostar 190, YardBird and TheBeast like this.
  2. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #2
    Bakershack

    Bakershack Critical of Noncritical Thinkers

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    Kelly
    Spanish Fort, AL
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    I'm not the one to answer those questions, but welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

    You might want to post that kind of question in the 2nd Gen section. You will likely get more targeted and knowledgeable responses.
     
    JOHN NE OHIO[OP] likes this.
  3. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:41 PM
    #3
    Midnite72

    Midnite72 Anything DIRT !!

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    Bill
    Northern MD
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    What he said ^^^

    Welcome from Maryland :hattip:

    good luck with your issues
     
    JOHN NE OHIO[OP] likes this.
  4. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:49 PM
    #4
    TaquitoBandito

    TaquitoBandito SSEM #91, KitKat Aficionado, A Dancer for Money Exotic Dancer

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    Welcome aboard from Texas! There are two fuse box locations - I think it might be in the one under the hood. Hopefully this link can point you in the right direction: https://fuse-box.info/toyota/toyota-tundra-xk50-2007-2013-fuses
     
  5. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:55 PM
    #5
    YardBird

    YardBird Native San Diegan

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    SoCal1.jpg
    I hope someone here can help you with this issue . . .
     
  6. Oct 29, 2020 at 4:57 PM
    #6
    JOHN NE OHIO

    JOHN NE OHIO [OP] New Member

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    mechanics wire around exhaust heat shields because of rattles
  7. Oct 29, 2020 at 5:01 PM
    #7
    JOHN NE OHIO

    JOHN NE OHIO [OP] New Member

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    mechanics wire around exhaust heat shields because of rattles
    On this cold, dark, rainy, north eastern Ohio evening my 2013 Tundra 80K, has shared with me a check engine light! Code P2445 Secondary Air Injection System Pump Stuck Off. (Bank 1) I know the pumps are under passenger fender not sure where the fuse is located? Plan is to wait for daylight, check for power at pumps, check fuse if no power. I do not know where fuse is located? Is pump common problem thought the AIP problems were solved? About a week ago I heard what I thought was a belt squeal when I started the truck, it only lasted about 10 seconds but went away. Now I'm wondering if it might have been the AIP bearing?
     
  8. Oct 29, 2020 at 5:14 PM
    #8
    JOHN NE OHIO

    JOHN NE OHIO [OP] New Member

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    mechanics wire around exhaust heat shields because of rattles
    Thanks! yes helps,
     
  9. Oct 29, 2020 at 5:17 PM
    #9
    Ely010606

    Ely010606 New Member

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    Welcome from Nevada
     
  10. Oct 29, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #10
    Prostar 190

    Prostar 190 SSEM #9 I would rather be water skiing

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    Welcome from Ohio. Fortunately I've never had the problem myself so I haven't located any of the fuses for it. But I believe Toyota extended the warranty on that to 10 years so technically you should have three more years of warranty left on your air pumps You might check into that.
     
  11. Oct 29, 2020 at 7:07 PM
    #11
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11,TTC#179

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    Welcome from NY.
     
  12. Oct 30, 2020 at 6:35 AM
    #12
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADIN',RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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  13. Oct 30, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #13
    TKNorthwest

    TKNorthwest New Member

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  14. Oct 30, 2020 at 8:57 AM
    #14
    RitcheyRch

    RitcheyRch New Member

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  15. Nov 17, 2020 at 2:53 PM
    #15
    beerreason

    beerreason New Member

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    Hey - welcome from the ATL! Bought my 2010 this past summer.

    AND... today I get the Check Engine Light, after some funny shifting yesterday evening (daughter was driving, I was passenger). I'm sure the truck had gone into limp mode, which it definitely was today. Autozone told me it's the same P2445 you have. If you're still under 150k miles, you're going to fall within the factory extended warranty on this. Sadly, my truck went into service with the original owner in May 2010, so I just missed the 10-year/150k extension on this air injection system. World Toyota here quoted me $1700+ in parts and $800+ in labor to replace the entire thing: pumps, valves, etc.

    I just ordered a couple of new aftermarket air pumps on Amazon, plus some wheel well liner clips b/c you know those won't all survive being taken off. Going to follow what these guys did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IS17lydusIE over this coming weekend.

    I'd love to hear how you approach it -- although hopefully you'll get to use the factory extended warranty if it's not just a fuse. Good luck!
     
  16. Nov 17, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #16
    RainMan_PNW

    RainMan_PNW "Oz" SSEM #82 RGBA #4 Unofficial Forum Treasurer Vendor?

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    Check the build link in my signature.
    Welcome from the wet side of WA.

    For OP, you are within the updated/extended warranty, so get that fixed by the dealer. I'd push for them to do your AIP solenoid at the same time.

    SO...for @beerreason the unfortunate thing is that it may not just be the pumps. Hopefully it is. After you swap them out, you may also find that the AIP solenoid starts sticking open or closed (it's another P244x error...I don't remember the specific last digit tho). THAT is located back behind the intake manifold near the firewall and is a bitch to get to without tearing half the top of your engine apart. You could also google Hewitt Tech for an alternative...but I didn't tell you that. :spy: (no affiliation by the way...just had to do some research once).
     
  17. Nov 17, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #17
    beerreason

    beerreason New Member

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    Thanks, RainMan! Yeah, I'm going into this knowing that it might be more than just the air pumps, and even if it is the pumps for now, the valves will likely go sometime in the future.

    So, for now, I'm hoping that the P2445 that's being reported is actually true, and that nothing else is broken yet. For that matter, P2445 says that only Bank1 is stuck, so I could possibly just figure out which pump is Bank1 and just replace that one. However, I'm planning to replace both while I'm in there and then stick the other (good?) one on the spare parts shelf in case it's needed later.

    Someone wrote that he did a postmortem on his failed air pumps and found at least one full of water. I've read that Toyota has redesigned the snorkel tube that these pull from (not sure when they did, and not sure which version I have). If I have the old one, I'll replace that with the redesign for another $35 for the OEM part. That should help keep water from getting in there and ruining the new pump.

    Also, for now, Toyota's not going to repair my truck, so I decided to clear the engine code in the hopes that it would take the engine out of limp mode. Disconnected the battery for a minute or so, and hooked it back up. Seems to have worked, so it's (more) usable from now til the weekend.

    For the future, I'm assuming I'll have to do the valve at some point (either me or my private mechanic shop). I think that's a P2440 or P2441. If it's me doing it, here's a good video that I also found: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxZsnoJdCyo

    I've also been curious about the Hewitt solution. Not that I'd ever consider actually doing that! :cool: PM me if you might have more info....
     
  18. Nov 18, 2020 at 11:17 AM
    #18
    beerreason

    beerreason New Member

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    2010 CrewMax TRD Off-road (purchased 2020), 2002 Access Cab (owned 2002-2020)
    So here's another interesting one that I came across last night. It seems that the rubber inverted domes that shield the air pump motors can fill up with water (like the other guy found). This guy opened the housings, drained the water, sprayed everything with contact cleaner, and the motors still ran fine! He did end up replacing the valve assembly, but the pumps didn't need replacing. He drilled small drain holes in the rubber motor covers to help prevent them from filling again and just reinstalled them. I'll definitely give this a try and bench-test the existing motors before installing new ones.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsV1HCcuEIo
     
  19. Nov 18, 2020 at 11:36 AM
    #19
    Qbert

    Qbert New Member

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    Welcome from the 562
     

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