Door sound deadening strategy?

I don't want to over think this. But I am starting with the doors for now. Im thinking of using a butyl mat followed up with a thicker foam (potentially all from Noico). Is it that easy? I don't want to damage sound quality with putting too much foam, or is that not a real concern? Ive read people here just add a 2nd layer of the thicker foam on top of the mats for better results.

My goal is to increase sound system quality but also reduce road noice, hence the foam..Eventually may continue to the floor and roof.

extra question: I know to roll out the mats with a roller, but should I roll out the foam? Or only press to fit?

Thanks

 

if you haven't purchased material yet maybe look into soundshield which is what JRT uses. it's three layers in one so you only apply once.

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=576&categoryId=124

 

I did the inner and outer door skins with dynamat and put a piece of dynamat behind the speaker. I rolled the foam piece to insure it was fully adhered.
Like @sensei said, there are products that are layered to reduce install time, I should have spent a little more and gone that route. I used 120 sq.ft. of dynamat thru my truck, still have teh roof to go.

 

Your plan with help reduce vibrations in the door panel and greatly improve midbass sound but not do very much for excluding road noise. Mass loaded vinyl is the go to for acting as a barrier for outside noise. Problem is it is hard to find in small quantities and due to it being heavy (this is what helps reduce outside noise) it is difficult to work with.

Read more here:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

 

I second the "Sound Design" material which is butyl, aluminum and high density foam. James and a number of internet retailers like mobile solutions are dealers. It does depend on what you are trying to achieve as the multi-layer, multi-material is the ultimate choice and effort.

 

So you just put a piece of foam behind the speaker? Why did you only put it there instead of covering all the mats? And what foam did you use?

thanks

 

it is 1/4" dynaliner foam. didn't do the entire door because of cost of the stuff, at $59 a sheet, would have needed 5 sheets to do the entire door face of the cab side. My thought was some of the acoustic speaker foam rings have a piece you mount behind the speaker, so I thought to put a larger area sheet of foam behind the speaker. Don't know if it was the right thing to do or not. the dynamat made the doors feel more solid and when you tap the doors with you knuckle, it is noticeable.

 

Can someone link to a thread here which shows some good pictures of the steps? Specifically to the doors

 

Also, do you cover all of the small drain holes with the mat? Those holes are originally covered by the weather proofing sheet

 

No, I did not cover the drain holes that are at the bottom, inside the door. I started about 2 inches up from the drain holes and did as much as I could reach. I have some thin welding arm sleeves that I wore after cutting my arms up. Also I used the handle end of a craftsman screw driver to help press the dynamat inside the door - mine has a rounded end

 

Drain holes in the door? Aw, sh*t. I just did the doors on my 2018. Now I'm wondering if I blocked the drain holes. Where are they?

I've been looking at this thread to gather information on better sound deadening. I used Stinger Roadkill. It made such a dramatic difference in the speakers! I still can't believe it. But, the sound deadening end of things wasn't as impressive. Maybe I need to install closed cell foam.

 

CCF will do nothing for road noise. Road noise is at a frequency that is well below what ccf will attenuate. MLV is the best option. See my link in the earlier post. That website has instructions that are the go to for everyone serious about a quiet vehicle, other than selling the Tundra and buying a Lexus.

 

The drain holes are at the very bottom inside the door. The drains exit out behind one of the lower seals.

 

Just did some reading there, thanks. So on the outer door panel he put “CLD” tiles? Where else can we buy these? Then, on the inner panel he just put MLV and CCF? So no butyl mats like Noico??

 

CLD is the aluminum topped butyl mat, i.e. Dynamat. 99% of people only use CLD when talking about sound treatment. This is just the first layer and meant to stop large, flat panels from resonating with the speakers (mostly). Certainly the more you lay down in terms of area, the better but it is rapidly diminishing returns after about 25% coverage. Focus on the flat panels as anything with a tight bend really can't vibrate as easily. The front doors are the best place to sound deaden, no matter how far you take it as that is where the speakers are mounted. The next layer is CCF and its only purpose is to isolate the third layer, MLV from the frame. (It may attenuate high frequencies but all measurements I have seen are nearly negligible.) The MLV is very dense and adding that mass is what will block outside noise from getting in. It is a lot of work to do it all. If you search this AV forum, you can see my build (a 2002 stereo odyssey) where I go through all three steps. It took over 40 hours just for the CCF/MLV. In these trucks, it is a noticeable effects but not HUGE. I think it is worth it as the bonus being the inside of my cab is also thermally insulated. But I also spend endless time now using a DSP to fine tune the sound. Hey, it gives me something to tinker with! Good luck and a great site for "car" audio is diymobileaudio.com. Go there and search sound isolation or something like that. You can also find great deals on equipment. It is the audio equivalent of this forum for people obsessed with great car audio.

 

Great , thanks for explaining that. I will read your post and go to that site

 

What do you think about this: putting CLD on the inner door panel, cover about 75% and then put a piece of 8” square CCF behind the speaker. Then put similar coverage of CLD on outer panel and then cover that with CCF. My thinking is the extra CCF on the outer panel will just improve sound quality and reduce road noise

I understand MLV is truly required for sound proofing but right now I can’t afford the time and money for that...

I appreciate it

 

I did the spray on my last truck and to be honest whatever the installer used must have been crap. Didnt do much.

 

I used the Siless 80 Mil butyl mat. Took almost all of the 36 sqft to do the outer metal, inner metal, and parts of the covers. Used aluminum finishing tape to seal as I read some horror stories of butyl melting out in extreme hot weather. It's not a process I ever want to repeat lol. I wasn't going for super fancy and just decided to do it while I was in there. Improved the sound and made the doors feel solid. Before I did the doors felt way too light and sounded flimsy when I'd close them. I only did the doors.

Some videos will show cutting a slit where the big foam pieces sit in the middle of the door panel but I just took a serrated knife and cut some length off of the foam so it didn't push into the deadener enough to bust through.

Make sure you leave allowance for the door release and lock release lines. Those can be a pain to reconnect. Make sure you test them before you put the door all the way back on.

 

Thanks. What is this foam you speak of? There’s foam in the panel from factory??

 

It’s behind the door panel you remove. I can’t find a picture.

 

Put the CLD in, it will have an effect but I dont think the CCF will do anything really so you might as well skip it if you dont plan to put in MLV. Ive looked at a bunch of measurements on this topic and ccf doesnt do anything on its own without mlv.

 

Use the metal roller tools with the small horizontal lines and I’d use kilmat. I used it for all doors, roof and rear wall and have no issues with it. You can knock on the door and it is solid.
Kilmat 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

$75 KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_MUKRFbWG1ZSQQ

The black hard foam piece between the doors is for vibration but with the sound deadening it’s not needed.

 

You’ll want to use a set like this one. Such a game changer and makes the install quick.
POWERWORKS Set of 3 Automotive Car Sound Deadening Hand Wheel Roller Metal Wood Tool Fit for Noise Deadener Heat Abatement Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086PLT7SH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_a1KRFb96825M5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

Can you link your build with materials and pictures? I couldn’t find it. I’m reconsidering adding MLV. It looks pretty easy and cheap. What kind of foam did you buy, 1/8”? A materials list would be great. Thanks again

 

How much did that help with sound quality? Isn’t like 50% coverage all you need ?

 

Sure. Here is the link:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/a-2002-stereo-odyssey.71209/

I used 1/8inch ccf bought at home depot: just whatever was there. I felt that anything thicker would make it harder to put everything back together and it was hard enough with the 1/8 inch and MLV. Prepare to buy longer bolts for the center console, rear seats, etc. I really don't remember which bolts I ended up needing longer other than the center console but there were a few others. I bought 100 sq ft of MLV from Amazon. I thought I would have about 30 sq ft left over but I used it all. I put CDL, CCF, and MLV on the floor, all doors, the rear cabin wall. The MLV is not easy to work with and you really want to seal any seams with the glue mentioned in the link I put in the other post. Tape will not hold in the long run. You will see that I purchased a DSP as well. I highly suggest you look into this.

 

It helped. Most notably it eliminated any rattling from the doors. The stock speakers made the doors rattle and drove me insane. I made sure to put some small pieces in places like the window controls, etc., where small attachments will rattle.