Lift opinions please

2005 DC 4x4...about to install 5100‘s all the way around And new 285/75r16 MT on new wheels with 4.5 back spacing.
Here’s my question...my truck sits almost level 1/2” taller in back at most. The forum consensus is there is a small puck lift in the front. So question is do I leave the puck lift when installing the adj. 5100 up front and put the ring at stock or maybe a notch up...Or chuck the pucks and just use the 5100 adjustment in the 3rd position (1.06”) I’ve heard the 4th at (1.6“) is to harsh.
I really want to get it right the first time or add a small leaf at most to the rear. I don’t want to tear down that front end multiple times and get realignment more than once.
Any and all help is welcomed!

 

Loose the puck, use the height adjuster on the shock for the desired lift you want.

 

CHUCK THE PUCK!!!!!!!!!! The 4th will probably put you at about the same height you are now and shouldn't be to rough.

 

How much lift are you trying to achieve?

 

@rock climber just enough so the tires clear with no rubbing

 

If you can get the lift you want without the puck, ditch it. Even on the top setting, it is going to feel 1000 times better on the new 5100s.

 

If you're shooting for 1.75 - 2.5, then a better options would be to use 5100's and either ARB or Dobinson coils.

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p626/Bilstein5100/OMELift.html#/

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p588/DobinsonsBilsteinFrontTundra.html#/

 

@rock climber those are on the list for the future. Gotta pace myself

 

Makes sense, but if you already have the 5100's you can buy the new springs for about $160.

 

Not to de-rail this post, but had a few questions. If wanted to raise the front of a gen 1 double cab 2wd w/ the 5100 kit (say an inch and a half) and leave the back stock height, am I messing up the geometry of the front end suspension/ steering components? Are longer brake lines needed? How is the 'ride' of the truck affected . . .? . . . less travel, and easier to 'bottom-out'? Will there be increased 'tire wear' associated with the lift? It'd be strictly for cosmetics, but not worth it for my application if there are significant trade-offs. Thanks for any feedback. PS . . . I'd be running stock wheel/tire size 'MAYBE' the next size up in tires but not likely.

 

Everything will work just fine, no issues with brake lines, upper control arms or tire wear. The ride will likely be much better depending on which shocks you are replacing. Just make sure you get an alignment after.

 

As mentioned everything will work fine, the only potential issue is that the sway bar links will have slightly more stress from the increased height and might result in a broken link end. I have the Bilstein 5100's with the circlip on the 3rd (middle) position, that's supposed to give the front 1.33" of lift for my 2WD Access Cab. I don't off-road with my truck so I'm not really concerned with slightly more stress on my sway bar links, but if they do break I'd replace them with these... https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/SMX-122270T
You can see the 5100 adjustment details here... https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...ront-rear-shocks-for-2000-2006-toyota-tundra/

I really like how my truck handles having replaced only the stock shocks/coil overs with the 5100's.

 

Great info . . . thanks for the heads up, appreciate it.

 

+1 for lowest circlip on 5100's and Robinson coils. They are $200 bucks and work excellent for what you want to do. The c59-304 springs would be great if you don't plan on adding weight up front. I have the c59-314 because I have a second battery and plan on a steel bumper up front. Gave me 2 1/4" up front and I have hd leaf pack on the back with 2.5" lift. Truck sits level to the eye and rides like a real truck now not a Camry. Get the suspensionmaxx sway links as well you won't regret it.