Any good frame oiling recipes out there?

I'm going to hit my 05 AC frame hard next week with a good oiling and i'm looking for some of your recipes? And also what have you found as the best delivery method,...newby here. At present I'm thinkin some used engine oil cut with a little diesel in a garden type sprayer per a forum search. I'm hoping the smell won't be too overwhelming. Any other good tips? Not rocket science I know lol. Thanks

 

Grease and woolwax

 

Fluid film seems to work pretty awesome

 

Send this to a member earlier today requesting info:

1) Purchase a super large can of PB Penetrant and spray the entire frame including up inside the boxed portion area. Any crevice you can spray... spray it. I sprayed the rear axle, too. Let that soak in for a few days.

2) Purchase some Moly-B Grease and apply it all over the frame with a sponge. Two tubs of grease should be sufficient. Its lots of work. Took me about 8 hours over 2 days time. I used a flexible rod and shoved the attached sponge up the box frame to grease those areas.

All in all total cost is about $12 for the grease tubs and $7 for the PB.

Grease will stay on for life and never wash off. Occasionally, I’ll spray a half of a PB can soaking on the frame every 6 months which is fun and takes 10 minutes to do. The welds soak all that penetrant up nicely.

 

All good stuff! I do like the PB Blaster and grease option above, but I don't think my ole body could lay on the ground for 8 hours sponging her ole body. I do like, and might use, the PB Blaster though as a catalyst to help whatever I spray absorb better into all the nooks and crannies I'll be hitting.

 

i see you post your wand everywhere, including DM with me
can we get a pic / parts to a diy for this lol
I PB blasted 3 months ago
I am thinking wool wax before grease?
getting mine on a family friend's lift for wax in next couple weeks

 

I tried woolwax before grease and basically it's pretty much impossible to grease on because the metal surface is so slick from the fluid film

 

I've been fluid filming my truck every november since I bought it 4 years ago, still not a speck of rust on the frame. You can tell it's still on there, but it does need to be redone soon. I will probably hit it again here in the next week or two before we have to start worrying about snow.

 

Doesn’t penetrating oil stink? I have a can of liquid wrench penetrating oil and it stinks bad and the smell seems to linger forever.

Have had the same can for many years now. For me one can is a lifetime supply.

 

It sure does stink, but goes away after about a week or less if you drive it more. Its like you would think the first day in that its bad. The following few days its barely noticeable unless is a hot day. After a week... gone. Penetrant is the only way I know to get into those folds. Similar to a seized bolt you use penetration oil.

I was just under the truck yesterday and the frame looks brand new (matte black). Another member was concerned about dirt sticking to the grease. It does after the first application because the surface is shiny slick like grease does. You can see some small debris stuck in the film.

After a few months, the surface dries and has a doughy type shield that needs to be scratched off to get to the frame. The resulting matte black finish looks good, too.

 

Penetration Oil and then grease a few days later. Skip the Wool Wax. I have no problem with Wool Wax and have used it before a few years ago when first joining this forum, but the grease is much better.

Pros: It lasts forever. Cheap. Looks better than the Wool Spray Snot.

Cons: Takes some physical work to do it.

It got this idea from talking with an Old Timer Mechanic. He said the old Jeep Wagoners Frames came from the factory with a thick coating of grease on them. They never had any type of rust, even surface rust, he said. My local area doesn’t have the bad rust problems like some of you guys. I did it to protect those welds and make the frame look good.

 

How does grease hold up to car wash? Worried about needing to put that much effort in monthly if it’s washed weekly through winter

 

Are you scrubbing the frame?

If you are just rinsing, I’d see no problem. Rinsing is no different than driving in the rain.

Scrubbing etc: Sure it will come off a bit and then stick to your brush forever thus becoming a grease brush.

I’d say do it, if you want to put the effort. You’ll see what I’m talking about after you do it. Grease does not wash off.

 

U will never ever get that grease off unless you pressure wash your frame or spray straight up degreaser

 

Mollyb grease. Is that molly fortified?

this the right stuff?

$16 Valvoline - VV986 Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 1 LB

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Sy...words=Molybdenum+Grease&qid=1603146827&sr=8-3

 

Corrosion free works amazing and has no smell it’s designed exactly for your application it’s been rated the best by a military study
https://corrosionfree.com/
My tundra with 100k plus’s has seen plenty of harsh road salt and it still looks descent no rust on frame. Yearly application

 

Never heard of this. Looks pretty interesting though. I’ve been using Fluid Film for many years with good results.

 

Full disclosure, I only skimmed.

Saw PB Blaster being mentioned for this task. It will work. Just be careful around any rubber. It's a penetrating oil that can cause rubber to swell.

 

drive through car wash with undercarriage
picked up some STP Moly EP this evening
just worried about missing any spots with the rub down. ME is brutal with the brine

 

I like the product because it doesn’t smell at all and it will not harm the rubber or plastic plus it works.

It’s available for the diy guys
I just put a ordered in to do our fleet
5 gal pail will do about 5 to 7 vehicles depending on size. There are corrosion free dealers that can apply it at least up here in Canada.

 

If you're going to go to the trouble of coating the frame with grease, you're probably better off using marine grease, as it's specifically designed to resist washout when exposed to water, salt, and such. Moly is a fantastic additive that helps lubricate in high-pressure situations. It's great for bearings, ball joints, u-joints and other sealed applications. But not really designed to hold up to harsh environments like marine grease.

 

Put some nitrile gloves on and work that thing!

The sponge action works for most of the frame area, but you’ll need to work some of those crevices and hard to reach areas will el maños. Like I said, I takes time but lasts forever. You can split up your time doing this as it doesn’t have to be done in one 8 hour session. Pick some areas and work them. Circle back another day if needed.

 

Your marine grease will work.

In retort to your Moly comment is this link:

https://www.infomak.com/news/The-An...dvantages-of-Molybdenum-Disulfide-Grease.html

 

I had an old Chevy PU I which I lathered the frame with grease and never reapplied it the 6 years i had it, held up well. I warmed the grease and put it on with paint brushes.
On my Tundra I have it sprayed annually with NH oil which is a product similar to fluid film and so far so good.

 

I love that word... lathered.

The grease does go on nicely in the summer heat.

 

This entire thread has me really thinking.

 

Turns out I have a tub of high temp grease in the ol' garahay! Says for wheel bearing and frame right on it. Will be doing this in 2 weekends

 

That link wouldn’t load for me. What does it say?

 

To be clear, that means it’s for use on grease-able shackles, bushings, and other pivot points around the frame. It will work well for coating the frame for rust prevention. But that’s not what the manufacturer is recommending.

 

I know. there may be less rotted frames....
Just sooo happens it's a dual use label in this situation.