Abs booster goes off at low speed stops

Good morning everyone mi have a 05 tundra sr5
2wheel drive
I had a rough country leveling kit on truck and had it removed by a mechanic. Ever since it wad removed my abs booster activated when I apply the breaks at low speed. Maybe a damaged abs sensor or one of abs rings is cracked. Not sure what the issue is but would love some feed back...

Milage is 213607

plus my heater core started leaking. smells like antifreeze and leaves a film on windows and carpet get wet passenger side... a lot of condensate on ducks and drain hose is free of cligsv

 

Does 1st gen have a yaw sensor? If your rake changed after removing the lift, it might need to be reset. Is you brake fluid dirty? Maybe get a flush and change the fluid and bleed the abs system.

 

Just pull the ABS fuse, ABS is for bad drivers anyway

 

Clean the speed sensor magnet, verify the o-rings are intact, inspect the hard plastic housing, as well as the soft line to the harness connector, ensure the mating surfaces are clean , smooth, rust free, re-seat the sensors. Drive test.

That is all the stuff they futz with to let your wheel droop for suspension maintenance.

 

Welcome aboard from SoCal.

 

I have the exact same issue on my truck and ultimately had to pull the ABS fuses. Replacing the wheel speed sensor didn't do anything for me. You can try cleaning it first. The tone ring must be thr issue on my truck.

 

MickTun here new to the forum. Thanks to Baller for the tip to pull the fuses which pointed me tin the right direction. Not sure if my problem was the same as the above but my truck when i was coming to a stop the brake system (something under the hood) would buzz and then rattle and the brake pedal would push back on my foot and the truck would stop. The brakes worked fine other than that. Fix: Turned out to be one of the speed sensors wasn't seated properly. The bolt was torqued but because the sensor is plastic its easy to torque it and not have it seated. Put fuses back working like new!

 

So I plugged a more expensive scan tool into my truck to see if there may be something else going on with my ABS. I'm getting the 'ABS kicking on at low speeds' issue others have brought up. Doing the quick stop and bleed method isn't proving results. The scan tool read a code "C1279 - Deceleration Sensor is Faulty". My truck doesn't have VSC. Before I start tearing out the center console looking for it, does it even have a yaw rate sensor? Could this sensor be faulty and causing the ABS to improperly activate? The wheel speed sensors are registering the same speed according to the scan tool.

@empty_lord Hoping you may have more insight about the yaw rate sensor. The part number that comes up is 89183-60010.

 

Damaged tone ring possibly. You need a scanner to graph the wheel speeds and look for abnormalities

 

Did you try removing abs fuse and see if noise goes away then you know where problem is. With mine I noticed sensor was torqued down but was not seated properly. I cleaned it and kinda massaged it in there working it around and around until it was 100% seated then torque the bolt. Problem solved.

 

My tone rings are new and I'm not noticing any abnormalities with wheel speeds on the scanner. My scanner says there is a code for a faulty deceleration sensor.

 

Well that’ll do it then. I believe Theres a precedure to calibrate that system. But it’s been a long time since I’ve had to do it

 

Bump. Did anyone get this fix to work? I have a 2006 Tundra that is doing the same thing after a complete suspension change - all stock, OEM parts. ABS comes on as I decelerate through 5mph. I've pulled and cleaned the 2 front wheel speed sensors and blew out the tone ring. Have not done any other trouble shooting. I have no codes or lights.

 

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having similar problems.

 

You can try a new sensor but that never worked for me. Step 1 is confirming which side is making the ABS engage. I had the shop use their fancy SnapOn diagnostic scanner to monitor all 4 wheels. I'm still driving around with this issue after 2+ years. Only fix for me was pulling both ABS fuses.

 

Thanks for info. I'm not sure what happened. I did upper and lower ball joints ,billstein 4600s all around inner and outer tie rods then got alignment and they didn't mention any issues. Just yesterday a blinking tire sensor came on but none of my tires are low so I'm going to see if I can have the shop look into it this some when I get the tire sensors checked.

 

Same here. That's 3 of us now that have this same issue after doing suspension work. I even traced that wire all the way back to the connection to see if it looked pinched or damaged and couldn't find anything. You may want to try that also. The wire runs up the spindle, across the strut tower/bucket and then plugs in along the frame rail in the engine bay. Might as well tell the shop what happened and see what they say. Another person did report theirs was just loose.

 

Did you ever have zero point calibration after all your suspension work? I needed to ask them if they did that during alignment that was the thing I haven't checked yet. People had mentioned that as a possible cause on other posts.

 

So, I've had a bit of luck, but I haven't fixed it completely yet. To recap, I replaced all of my front suspension components (control arms, ball joints, shocks) and my ABS would actuate when coming to a stop around 4mph. I have no lights or codes. This weekend, I put my truck back on the lift did the following:

1. Sanded the area around the bore to the abs sensor (tone) ring. I only had one crappy piece of sandpaper so I didn't get it filed down like I want to. There is a fair amount of rust that builds up under the wheel speed sensor and seems to push the sensor out of the bore. It's only a mm or so, but I'm not sure how sensitive the sensor magnetic pole is to that type of distance.
2. With the wheel speed sensors removed, I rotated the hub and looked at the tone ring. Both are seated well with no apparent wobble when I spin it quickly. There were small amounts of grease/brake dust on several portions of each tone ring. I liberally sprayed brake clean while turning the hub. I let each side sit for a minute and then sprayed compressed air into the bore while spinning the hub - wanted to encourage all that brake clean to evaporate.

I put my truck back together and I had no ABS activations during the test drive and during the drive home. Later on, the ABS did actuate but now it's only when I am creeping really slow (2-3mph) and very lightly braking. If I brake at a normal or aggressive manner, I have no ABS activation.

So where does that leave me?? Well, it is clearly better now as I can drive it normally and not have the ABS buzzing when I stop during normal driving. I am clearly moving in the right direction. Here is what I plan on doing next:

1. Remove the front wheel speed sensors, shove a shop towel in the bore, and dremel or file the hub surface on which the sensors seat. I have more rust there than I thought, and I didn't really get it as cleaned up as I would like.
2. Remove the shop towel in the sensor bore and use brake clean soaked q-tips or some other swab and really clean all the teeth and valleys of the sensor ring.

If I still have issues, I will replace the left sensor with a cheap 3rd party wheel speed sensor to make sure that's the problem. If it fixes it, I'll get an OEM sensor at some point. They are easy to change with the wheel off.
Failing that, I will replace the hub/tone ring assembly at some point. My truck is drivable so I'm not in a big hurry.

Thanks to all who messaged me with suggestions! I hope my feedback helps someone.

 

]Did you ever have zero point calibration after all your suspension work? I needed to ask them if they did that during alignment that was the thing I haven't checked yet. People had mentioned that as a possible cause on other posts.[/QUOTE]

This is the first I have heard about the zero point calibration. I did a quick search to familiarize myself. My truck only has ABS - no TRAC or VSC. I wonder if the zero point would matter for my truck? Of course everything was off, to include the steering wheel, after the suspension work prior to an alignment. I'll have to do some more research, but I'm leaning against it (zero point calibration) being the root cause at this point.

 

Same here. I've never heard of this @EricB Sorry I'm not more help with that. I'm going to try what @jbryan76 mentioned in his post about cleaning around the area where the wheel speed sensor mounts. I already cleaned the tone ring inside with a Q-tip and that didn't help.

 

I have the same issue, but worse. About 75% of the time when my abs kicks on, it sends the pedal back up and you loose all braking. Can't push the pedal back down, can't release and push, nothing. The only way to stop it is throw it in park. I had to just pull the abs fuse till I can jack with it later. I'm almost positive it's associated with my leaking rear axles.

 

Well I had the shop take it for a drive they couldn't seem to get it to skid like I have. They did do another alignment and readjust the stabilizing sensor? I'll let you know if it helped after driving for a while.

 

Mine has done this ever since I got it back on the road last year. I'm pretty sure in my case, it's related to air in the ABS pump. Although I did replace the front ABS sensors when I rebuilt the front end. Perhaps I should take a look at the Tone rings...?

 

I've been driving around with a scan tool to look at the individual wheel speeds normally, during braking, and during ABS braking. I'm not seeing anything abnormal currently.

I'm thinking of trying the Motive pump that attaches to the MC to try to get air out of the ABS pump. I previously tried another vacuum bleeder that attaches to the bleeders, it worked okay for normal bleeding, but has actually been more trouble than it's worth when trying to diagnose this issue.

 

Knock on wood, but I think I may have finally fixed my issue or at least found the root cause. Read above for the story up till now.

Tonight I decided to tackle my problem once again. After getting up under the truck and looking at the right wheel speed sensor I noticed it was not flush in the bore but tilted towards the fastener leaving a 2 to 3 mm gap with the hub. After removing the wheel speed sensor and stuffing a rag into the bore I used my Dremel to sand down the entire sensor mounting surface. It was quite rusty. I then reseated the wheel speed sensor in the bore and held it firmly in place while I fastened the bracket to the wheel hub. I found that if I did not hold the sensor in place it would slowly tilt out of the bore towards the fastener again.

I cannot duplicate the problem anymore. I even had my newly licensed 16-year-old daughter drive it as she modulates the brakes different than I do. And same thing with her, unable to duplicate the ABS activation.

My guess is that the wheel speed sensors when removed for the suspension work were unable to be flush mounted back into the bore due to the rust buildup on the mounting surface or lack of attention to seating them correctly.

I would be very curious to see if the other individuals on this thread are able to fix the issue as well. It took me literally 5 minutes to address the problem and that includes getting the tools out and pulling my truck into the garage. Good luck!

 

Thanks for sharing this. I inspected mine today. I don't have any rust and didn't see an actual gap but it was tilted back towards the fastener a little. I loosened it, and re torqued it and it now looks level. I'll report back after I drive it a bit.

 

I just got back from a 200mi roundtrip visit to my dad's - not one ABS activation. I'm wondering if vibration will tilt the sensor back out with time. I would say the Toyota speed sensors are sensitive to the angle and depth of the magnetic pole. This last time I did not torque that fastener down like previously, I just got it snug with the speed sensor remaining flush. I can see excess torque tilting the sensor again.

 

Having this exact issue with my 06 @jbryan76 . Where are the wheel speed sensors? Are they easy to clean?